Elevation: 4,609 ft
GPS: 36.034, -115.462 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 13,815 total · 83/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Aug 12, 2005
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

The lower eastern shoulder of Whiskey Peak is composed of the Lazy Buttress and several small faces that are to the left of the big white rockfall scar. There are many good moderate trad climbs in this area.

Several routes here end on or near the large platform called Lovers' Ledge. The easiest descent route crosses to the far side of the brushy gully behind the ledge, then goes up for 50 yards to the standard Whiskey Peak descent gully. This can be followed down and east, eventually wrapping around the base of the wall to the approach trail.

Getting There

Walk west on the trail from the parking area. At the mouth of the canyon, the trail splits; take the uphill (left) branch directly up to the base of the wall. The trail reaches the rock immediately under Schaeffer's Delight.

7 Total Climbs

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Location: Whiskey Peak - East Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Whiskey Peak - East

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 11
Microbrew
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
 11
Lazy Buttress
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 95
Schaeffer's Delight
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 34
Ballantine Blast
Trad 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Microbrew
 11
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Lazy Buttress
 11
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad 3 pitches
Schaeffer's Delight
 95
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Ballantine Blast
 34
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Whiskey Peak - East »

Sun & Shade

Routes Mostly Face: Northeast
Sunny Roughly 8am to 11am during high season
6am
8pm

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Photos

Larry Graham
Boulder, CO
Larry Graham   Boulder, CO
Just a head's up to those ending at Lover's ledge. The Handren book, as excellent as it is, does not describe the descent from there. It is important to know that the gully just below is NOT the same descent gully as for other Whiskey Peak descents. You need to scramble UP that gully a ways (as mentioned above in the intro to Whiskey Peak East) to intersect the "Frogland descent gully" which is well marked with cairns and a fairly easy descent down and back around to the north and the base of various climbs. We made the mistake yesterday of going DOWN the gully below the ledge. This was pretty dangerous, with much loose rock. It has been traveled and there is a needed rap station near the end but definitely not the best way to go. Apr 22, 2015