Avg: 1.7 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||FRA: John Wilder, Brandon Arens- 8.05|
|Page Views:||1,249 total · 7/month|
|Shared By:||J W on Aug 13, 2005|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Upon our arrival in Black Velvet, we intended to climb Schaeffer's Delight to Lazy Buttress. Yet, while racking up, we spied a gorgeous looking handcrack a ways to the right that was begging to be climbed. My partner seemed up for it, and after thinking it over I agreed- worst case, I have to yard on a piece or two on top rope.
So, off we went and had a great time. We knew it wasn't a first ascent, as there was fixed gear on the route, but after looking around and talking to some folks, no one is talking, so we named it for future parties to enjoy.
The name of the route comes from a microbrewery in Tucson, Arizona that I spent far too much time in while in college.
This route starts about 150' to the right of Lazy Buttress and about 50' left of Crown Royal at the base of a gully system that leads up to an obvious crack in a right-facing dihedral about a ropelength above.
Pitch 1: Start in a nice right-facing corner and work your way up easy ground toward the base of the crack. A single 5.7 move marks the end of the pitch. Belay at the base of the crack (two fixed stoppers). 5.7, 180'
Pitch 2: Climb the crack, exiting to the right, then traversing left to a nice stance at the base of another dihedral. 5.8+, 100'
Pitch 3: Head left and up, aiming for an obvious ledge that comes into view after about 15'. This pitch only gains about 40' of height, but traverses about a half of a rope length. Belay on the ledge with a huge boulder on it, which is the large ledge at the top of the second pitch of the Lazy Buttress 5.5, 100'
Pitch 4: Head up and left, through a slot, then head straight up to Lover's Ledge. 5.7, 70'
Descent: Head toward the summit, then cross the gully and work your way up to a saddle. Drop into the second gully, and head left- joining up with the Frogland descent.