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Routes in Whiskey Peak - East

Ballantine Blast T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crown Royal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gentle Ben's Afternoon Delight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lazy Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Microbrew T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Schaeffer's Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shaken, Not Stirred T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: FRA Paul Crosby, Larry DeAngelo
Page Views: 250 total, 2/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This routes begins just around the corner to the left of the small face with Schaeffer's Delight and Lazy Buttress. The short first pitch goes up a square-cut somewhat loose corner to a good ledge, even with the start of the above-mentioned climbs. The second pitch goes straight up on face climbing to a belay niche in a flared slot about fifteen feet up and left from a prominent bush. The third pitch continues up the slot and then ascends the dark headwall above. The climb ends with a short, easy pitch to Lovers' Ledge.

Descend by climbing up the the main gully and downclimbing east.

Protection

Standard rack, wires

Photos

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Ben Townsend  
 
Attractive line, disappointing rock quality. Approach as for Schaeffer's Delight, but where that approach heads up right into the brush, diagonal about 50' left.

P. 1: Climb awkwardly up the initial corner past some loose blocks to the next big ledge. 5.7, 30'

P. 2: Face climb up the nicely varnished prow, trending up and left to a triangular alcove. This is a really enjoyable pitch. 5.7, 130'

P.3: Up the low-angle crack, then pull over the obvious roof and on to the varnished headwall. Climb delicately up the fragile rock of the headwall until the angle lays back; take your pick of belay stances. 5.9, 80-120' depending where you choose to belay.

P. 4: Easy rock to Lover's Ledge. 5.5, 80-100'

Standard rack to #3 Camalot, emphasizing small to medium cams. Apr 27, 2015