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Routes in Whiskey Peak - East

Ballantine Blast T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crown Royal T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gentle Ben's Afternoon Delight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lazy Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Microbrew T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Schaeffer's Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shaken, Not Stirred T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: FRA Paul Crosby, Larry DeAngelo
Page Views: 262 total · 2/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description [Edit]

This routes begins just around the corner to the left of the small face with Schaeffer's Delight and Lazy Buttress. The short first pitch goes up a square-cut somewhat loose corner to a good ledge, even with the start of the above-mentioned climbs. The second pitch goes straight up on face climbing to a belay niche in a flared slot about fifteen feet up and left from a prominent bush. The third pitch continues up the slot and then ascends the dark headwall above. The climb ends with a short, easy pitch to Lovers' Ledge.

Descend by climbing up the the main gully and downclimbing east.

Protection [Edit]

Standard rack, wires

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Ben Townsend  
 
Attractive line, disappointing rock quality. Approach as for Schaeffer's Delight, but where that approach heads up right into the brush, diagonal about 50' left.

P. 1: Climb awkwardly up the initial corner past some loose blocks to the next big ledge. 5.7, 30'

P. 2: Face climb up the nicely varnished prow, trending up and left to a triangular alcove. This is a really enjoyable pitch. 5.7, 130'

P.3: Up the low-angle crack, then pull over the obvious roof and on to the varnished headwall. Climb delicately up the fragile rock of the headwall until the angle lays back; take your pick of belay stances. 5.9, 80-120' depending where you choose to belay.

P. 4: Easy rock to Lover's Ledge. 5.5, 80-100'

Standard rack to #3 Camalot, emphasizing small to medium cams. Apr 27, 2015

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