Avg: 2.7 from 9 votes
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Matt McMackin, Nanouk Borche, Joe and Betsy Herbst, 10/73|
|Page Views:||2,175 total · 14/month|
|Shared By:||john campbell on Apr 8, 2005|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionBegin in the S-shaped crack immediately above the point where the approach trail comes up to the base of the wall. Work your way up a chimney. Pull through 2 roof sections. When you get to the 3rd roof section, you can traverse left 10ft below the roof as I did, or climb right up to it and traverse left at that point, or you could pull the roof but it is intimidating. Easy climbing to the anchors after that. I was able to get a good deal of gear in on this route, but the 3rd roof section is scary and the pro is not as good in this section. Thought it was harder than Schaeffer's.
The second pitch goes up and right around a small corner, then up a very long easy slab to a good belay ledge. The third pitch moves left to a 5.6 overhang. Easy climbing takes you to the large platform (called Lovers' Ledge) on the crest of the buttress. A 4th pitch is possible up the headwall above, but danger from loose rock minimizes its appeal.
To descend, cross to the far side of the brushy gully behind Lovers' Ledge, then go up for 50 yards to the standard Whiskey Peak descent gully.