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Routes in Whiskey Peak - East

Ballantine Blast T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crown Royal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gentle Ben's Afternoon Delight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lazy Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Microbrew T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Schaeffer's Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shaken, Not Stirred T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: George Urioste, Mike Petrilak, Mike Ward
Page Views: 6,070 total, 38/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Immediately above the spot where the Frogland approach trail reaches the base of the cliff is a clean varnished face. The right side of this face has an obvious S-shaped crack. Schaeffer's Delight starts just to the left of the S-shaped crack and follows magnificent 5.7 face-climbing past several bolts and a few small cam placements to a good belay ledge with a bush on it. You can rappel from this ledge with two ropes, as the first ascent party did in 1984. George Urioste returned a few years ago and extended the route.The second pitch face climbs straight above the bush (5.7) to easier ground 15 feet up. Continue up and right to a smooth low-angle dihedral and belay near its top. The third pitch goes up, then left and climbs a prominent, square corner (5.8) to the top.At this point, you are on a huge platform on the east ridge of Whiskey Peak. There is another possible pitch above, but loose rock adds a certain element of danger. The best way off is to scramble into the brushy gully just to the left and climb it for about 50 yards to join the normal Whiskey Peak descent gully.

Protection

Six or seven bolts on the first pitch; trad gear above.
atomup  
After the last bolt on the P1 5.6/7 if you don't plug gear you'll mantle the belay ledge 45' above the last bolt. So many edges make it mellow. Really fun pitch! Maybe one well protected 5.8 move at the one finger pocket, but there's so many holds I may have missed something. The next 2 pitches are really fun too! The P3 corner has you wishing it was much longer. 5.8 Mar 20, 2017
Just wanted to reiterate what's been said before. The picture of the route depicted in the Handren book is wrong. The description is accurate. From the P1 belay ledge, go straight up past the first bolt and then continue straight up and left to go over the obvious featured lip to gain the low-angle ramp. From there the P3 corner above is obvious. In fact if you look for this on the approach, it can't be missed. Stay in the low-angle ramp as long as possible. Several good ledges appear the higher you go. We belayed from a ledge up and left of the low-angle corner. This led to more serious rope drag and passing by one or two large loose blocks. I would recommend belaying from one of the ledges right of the low-angle corner. Nov 9, 2015
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.8 PG13
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.8 PG13
Super first pitch, which felt very well protected, I think I placed three additional pieces, two above the last bolt. Second pitch starts off well but then becomes a little less interesting, I followed the shallow dihedral then stepped left before it ended and placed a belay, which was probably a mistake, one could have gone higher up the continuation, tackled a tricky steep step with an offwidth crack to large blocks and a good ledge. The finishing corner is great. At the top of the corner there is a cairn which you can follow rightwards around the corner then scramble up, down, and up to, as mentioned, the Frogland descent, then it's just a matter of following the cairns down.

A good intro to a canyon day at Red Rock. Nov 29, 2014
Did this route on 12-16-13. In shade all day. The first pitch is fun and well protected (bolts and gear). The second pitch is poorly described in the Handren red rock guide book. My opinion: at the first pitch anchor you will see a bolt about 12 feet above you. Climb to the on the face slightly to the left of the anchor up to the bolt. Then diagonal left to the corner (limited gear but easy moves). Then Up over the lip is a shallow, low angled corner that veers right. Climb that corner to the top for a belay. I only made it to the top of this pitch. On the way up the corner is a ledge with a rap anchor (slung block that looks attached but is sketchy). Don't know if this was where P2 ended or if I should have gone higher up. Anyway, from this slung block a 60m rap gets you to the ground (be mindful of rope eating cracks). From this ledge you can also see the brown 5.8 corner above (P3). Dec 17, 2013
Anfarwal Vr
Denver, CO
  5.7
Anfarwal Vr   Denver, CO
  5.7
Climbed this a few weeks ago. Handren guide is wrong--follow the text NOT his picture. I wound up cutting into P2 of Ballantine Blast, and then climbing up (or rather, bushwhacking) up to lover's ledge. Once on the ledge, exit climber's left down and across the first brushy gully. Scramble back up the other side up about 150 feet to join up with Frogland descent in the second gully (don't try to hike down into the first brushy gully, the trail goes nowhere). Oct 28, 2012
rockratrei
Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
rockratrei   Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
Handren - guide gives incorrect info for this climb. Use the info on this site. After the square cut corner there is another 70 ft. of climbing (5.4) up a black corner and 4th class to "Lovers Ledge", where you can do the last pitch of Lazy Buttress or scramble into the gully and go up to the Frogland descent. Oct 12, 2009
Steve Blevins
Central Coast, CA
Steve Blevins   Central Coast, CA
Climbed this route today. Very very nice. Sun 'till noon. You can climb the 2nd and 3rd pitches on a 60m rope if you belay from the 1st large ledge above the book. We did the 2 additional pitches above, they looked inviting compared to the scrub filled gully. They were ok to poor, detracted from the classic pitches below. Mar 28, 2009
John Hegyes
Las Vegas, NV
 
John Hegyes   Las Vegas, NV
 
Climbed all three pitches today. At the top of pitch three, I set an anchor immediately above the inside corner. In order to descend, we bore right along an upward ramp with a lot of loose blocks. We pulled one easy fifth class move and were then on top of a giant ledge that led left to the gully. We descended the gully, which was probably a mistake, it was too overgrown and not without some steep downclimbing. We found some old rap slings but chose not to rappel. Instead, we should have gone up the gully to join the Frogland descent.

Anyway, I really enjoyed the third pitch corner; I wish it went on for a lot longer. I carried up to a #3.5 Camalot and was well protected. There were a couple locations for a #4. May 19, 2005
10b4me
  5.8-
10b4me  
  5.8-
I just climbed Schaefers Delight and it is a good clean route. I was a little shocked when I got to the last bolt and still had 40' feet to climb to the anchors. Even though it starts to lean in, I would recomend taking a set of chalks for a little sense of security. Bolts and Anchors look great! Brad Hammack, of Oregon Sep 21, 2004
George Bell
Boulder, CO
 
George Bell   Boulder, CO
 
Climbed the first pitch the day before yesterday! It is indeed a nice pitch. Definitely take small gear even on the first pitch to ease the mind. Some of those edges can seem just a little too sharp. May 3, 2004