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Routes in Whiskey Peak - East
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Ballantine Blast T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Crown Royal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gentle Ben's Afternoon Delight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lazy Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Microbrew T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Schaeffer's Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Shaken, Not Stirred T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,356 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Between the main (Frogland) face of Whiskey Peak and the Lazy Buttress to its left, lies an indistinct rib. Crown Royal goes up the left side of this rib.
Pitch 1: Start in a small dihedral and follow mostly easy rock to a belay stance on the left.
Pitch 2: Move left into the main corner. Belay on a ledge with a small tree that is halfway up to the roof.
Pitch 3: Handjam past one tricky spot (5.8) to the roof. Step right and continue up the easier but wider crack.
Pitches 4 & 5: Routefind your way to the top.
Descent: cross south to the main gully and descend as for Frogland.
Pitch 1: Start in a small dihedral and follow mostly easy rock to a belay stance on the left.
Pitch 2: Move left into the main corner. Belay on a ledge with a small tree that is halfway up to the roof.
Pitch 3: Handjam past one tricky spot (5.8) to the roof. Step right and continue up the easier but wider crack.
Pitches 4 & 5: Routefind your way to the top.
Descent: cross south to the main gully and descend as for Frogland.
P. 2 is awkward and a bit bushy. The oak trees at the top make for a cramped belay. Sadly, the beautiful crack directly above the first belay, which looks from below like a good alternative, ends in the middle of nowhere.
P. 3 is excellent. A second #4 wouldn't have been unwelcome, but there's enough variety to improvise other protection for the wide section. Great belay ledge.
We finished up the varnished rib on the left in two moderate pitches. A bit of loose rock up high, but pretty pleasant. Overall, a fun moderate route with just a smidge of 5.8 climbing. Apr 7, 2015