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Routes in Whiskey Peak - East

Ballantine Blast T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crown Royal T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gentle Ben's Afternoon Delight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lazy Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Microbrew T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Schaeffer's Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shaken, Not Stirred T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,394 total · 8/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Between the main (Frogland) face of Whiskey Peak and the Lazy Buttress to its left, lies an indistinct rib. Crown Royal goes up the left side of this rib.

Pitch 1: Start in a small dihedral and follow mostly easy rock to a belay stance on the left.

Pitch 2: Move left into the main corner. Belay on a ledge with a small tree that is halfway up to the roof.

Pitch 3: Handjam past one tricky spot (5.8) to the roof. Step right and continue up the easier but wider crack.

Pitches 4 & 5: Routefind your way to the top.

Descent: cross south to the main gully and descend as for Frogland.

Protection

Std rack to #4 Camalot

Photos

Ben Townsend  
 
P. 1 is really nice and not very difficult. Not much of a belay ledge at the top.
P. 2 is awkward and a bit bushy. The oak trees at the top make for a cramped belay. Sadly, the beautiful crack directly above the first belay, which looks from below like a good alternative, ends in the middle of nowhere.
P. 3 is excellent. A second #4 wouldn't have been unwelcome, but there's enough variety to improvise other protection for the wide section. Great belay ledge.
We finished up the varnished rib on the left in two moderate pitches. A bit of loose rock up high, but pretty pleasant. Overall, a fun moderate route with just a smidge of 5.8 climbing. Apr 7, 2015

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