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Routes in Whiskey Peak - East

Ballantine Blast T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crown Royal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gentle Ben's Afternoon Delight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lazy Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Microbrew T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Schaeffer's Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shaken, Not Stirred T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,233 total, 14/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Just to the right of the S-shaped crack of Lazy Buttress, there is a ramp leading up and to the right.

Pitch 1: Easy climbing leads up the ramp, past an unnecessary belay station to a left-facing dihedral. Climb the dihedral, passing another unnecessary bolt, and belay at its top.

Pitch 2: Climb up about fifteen feet to a slightly bulging headwall. A 5.7 move over the overhang leads to beautiful and easy face climbing. The knobby face leads upward to two overhangs. The easiest route passes the lower overhang on the left and continues up the slab to a good belay ledge. This pitch is almost 60 meters in length. (The higher overhang has harder climbing and less protection.)

Pitch 3: Either go straight up on easy climbing to Lovers' Ledge, or bear to the left and join the Lazy Buttress where it goes over the 5.6 overhang.

Protection

Small to number 3 cam
like the poster above, I also had to relead part of the route to retrieve a stuck rope in the dihedral. Bailed off the "unnecessary bolt." Maybe it is necessary after all, since it seems to be right where the rope sticks Sep 30, 2010
Anthony Baraff
Paris, France
 
Anthony Baraff   Paris, France
 
Be careful not to get your rope stuck on rappel both when you drop it and when you pull it. In addition to having a big rope eating crack the length of the climb, there's a spot where a little pod in the crack forms a perfect spot for any twist in the rope to lock into. Apr 8, 2009
George Wilson
Las Vegas
  5.7
George Wilson   Las Vegas
  5.7
Seems like we did a variation of the second pitch...From the anchors above the dihedral, my partner trended right of the overhang toward and over the half arch onto sandy white face. This line had virtually no pro and was very lose. It was about 200' and ended at a huge belay ledge, to the right of the ledge with a huge boulder on it. This left us with simple climbing to lovers ledge. Fun day! Nov 17, 2008
Russ  
I am not usually one to say chop-chop, but "the bolt" is absolutely not needed.
Many many sound traditional placements are nearby. Dec 8, 2006
nanoking
Cupertino, CA
nanoking   Cupertino, CA
I used the dihedral bolt to bail off after re-leading part way to retrieve a stuck rope. Rope got stuck right across from that bolt twice. I figured that's what it was there for :). I just love the three different descriptions and ratings for this climb (Supertopo, Brock, here)! Nov 26, 2006
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.7+
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.7+
This is a pretty good route. The bolt in the dihedral is indeed unnecessary, and more to the point, it is difficult to clip- not even sure why it was placed there. Although the roof on the second pitch looks intimidating, the moves and holds are positive. Make sure to sling your pro quite long here, lest rope drag stop you in the middle of the unprotected (yet easy) climbing above. Aug 13, 2005