Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,698 total · 9/month
Shared By: George Bell on Apr 30, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This 1 pitch route climbs the crack left of Schaeffer's Delight. It is the left hand route (A) in the photo above. This climb lies directly above you as you approach Frogland (before you traverse right on the final ledge). Pass the base of Schaeffer's Delight and belay behind a huge block.

Step off the huge block and onto the wall. Climb up the crack until you reach a bolt. Above, the crack looks hard, certainly harder than 5.5. Do not get in the crack! I face climbed to the right of the crack and over the roof on jugs (wired stoppers protect). SuperTopo (which refers to this route as "Unknown Left") indicates it is also possible to face climb left of the crack.

Above here it is easy but there are a lot of brittle edges that can potentially snap off, plus loose blocks (but you can place lots of gear if you want). The easiest line is to stay left near a corner, then move back right as it turns into a ramp. However this is also the loosest option. Alternatively you can trend right and climb the face, this is harder and you may have to hunt for pro. Finish at the bolts right of a tree, shared with the first pitch of Schaeffer's Delight. Rap with two ropes.

The top of this climb is not really that bad, but perhaps not recommended for 5.5 leaders.

Protection

Standard rack to #3 Camalot

Photos

Steven Reneau  
5.6
The move around the roof felt stiff for 5.5. Mar 30, 2019