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> 16-Black Velvet…
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> Whiskey Peak - East
Microbrew
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British
Avg: 2.1 from 15
votes
Routes in Whiskey Peak - East
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Ballantine Blast T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Crown Royal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gentle Ben's Afternoon Delight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lazy Buttress T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Microbrew T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Schaeffer's Delight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Shaken, Not Stirred T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,731 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | George Bell on Apr 30, 2004 |
| Admins: | Justin Johnsen, Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
This 1 pitch route climbs the crack left of Schaeffer's Delight. It is the left hand route (A) in the photo above. This climb lies directly above you as you approach Frogland (before you traverse right on the final ledge). Pass the base of Schaeffer's Delight and belay behind a huge block.
Step off the huge block and onto the wall. Climb up the crack until you reach a bolt. Above, the crack looks hard, certainly harder than 5.5. Do not get in the crack! I face climbed to the right of the crack and over the roof on jugs (wired stoppers protect). SuperTopo (which refers to this route as "Unknown Left") indicates it is also possible to face climb left of the crack.
Above here it is easy but there are a lot of brittle edges that can potentially snap off, plus loose blocks (but you can place lots of gear if you want). The easiest line is to stay left near a corner, then move back right as it turns into a ramp. However this is also the loosest option. Alternatively you can trend right and climb the face, this is harder and you may have to hunt for pro. Finish at the bolts right of a tree, shared with the first pitch of Schaeffer's Delight. Rap with two ropes.
The top of this climb is not really that bad, but perhaps not recommended for 5.5 leaders.
Step off the huge block and onto the wall. Climb up the crack until you reach a bolt. Above, the crack looks hard, certainly harder than 5.5. Do not get in the crack! I face climbed to the right of the crack and over the roof on jugs (wired stoppers protect). SuperTopo (which refers to this route as "Unknown Left") indicates it is also possible to face climb left of the crack.
Above here it is easy but there are a lot of brittle edges that can potentially snap off, plus loose blocks (but you can place lots of gear if you want). The easiest line is to stay left near a corner, then move back right as it turns into a ramp. However this is also the loosest option. Alternatively you can trend right and climb the face, this is harder and you may have to hunt for pro. Finish at the bolts right of a tree, shared with the first pitch of Schaeffer's Delight. Rap with two ropes.
The top of this climb is not really that bad, but perhaps not recommended for 5.5 leaders.
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