PRINT: Rock Climbing in Cloud Tower, Red Rocks

Cloud Tower

Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Juniper Canyon

Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste Details

WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.

See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.

Description

This crag is home to beautiful classic Red Rock climbs varying in length from 2 pitches to 9 pitches. Some stellar moderates to challenging and beautiful routes the approach is worthwhile for these routes.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 1 ● It's a Girl - It's a Boy ! Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R 3 ● Pachyderm Trad 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 1 ● Laceration Spur Trad 14 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 26 ● Test Tube Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 47 ● Spare Rib Trad 4 pitches
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 2 ● Tiger Crack Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 25 ● The Clod Tower Trad 8 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R 1 ● The Disciple Trad 7 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R 1 ● Hook, Line, and Whimper Trad 4 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 1,174 ● Crimson Chrysalis Trad 9 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 495 ● Cloud Tower Trad 6 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 3 ● Black Cloud Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 2 ● Thag-Hag Trad 4 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 2 ● Thagomizer Trad 4 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 1 ● Far Side, The Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c 3 ● Black and Tan Trad

● It's a Girl - It's a Boy !

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches

● Pachyderm

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 5 pitches

● Laceration Spur

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 14 pitches

● Test Tube

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches

● Spare Rib

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches

● Tiger Crack

5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad 2 pitches

● The Clod Tower

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 8 pitches

● The Disciple

5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Trad 7 pitches

● Hook, Line, and Whimper

5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad 4 pitches

● Crimson Chrysalis

1,174

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 9 pitches

● Cloud Tower

495

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 6 pitches

● Black Cloud

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad 2 pitches

● Thag-Hag

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches

● Thagomizer

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches

● Far Side, The

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad

● Black and Tan

5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Cloud Tower reaching the skyline on the right, Ginger Buttress is the triangular buttress left of center.

Cloud Tower, living up to its name.

From the near the Oak Creek Trailhead, with some flowering Yucca

DrJen on the 1st pitch of the classic Crimson Chrysalis @ Red Rocks

looking up at the crux pitch from the belay

Climbers in profile on Crimson Crysalis, October 25, 2010.

Climbers on Crimson Crysalis. Cloud Tower route also clearly visible. Amazing. October 25, 2010.

Cloud Tower and Crimson Crysalis from high up on the Brownstone Wall, Armatron. October 2010.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Sarah Z
Golden

Getting there: there are several ways to get to the crag. Park in Pine Creek Canyon Parking Lot. The easiest terrain is to take pine creek trail to pine creek canyon loop, veer left at this point follow the knoll trail across the year round creek, through the bog, up the wash, veering left skirting the mountain, and across to the base of a super scramble stair master (there is a sign that says knoll trail on the left here and starts to go downhill, turn right and go up hill.) Follow cairns using the large white boulder as your guide until you pass through the white boulder at this point you have found the climbs to the right (Crimson Chrysalis, Cloud Tower, and clod tower is directly in front of you.) The last 3/4 mile is all steep uphill (100 feet elevation gain or so per 1/10th of a mile. Approximately 1,170 feet elevation gain total.) ~2.5 miles.

More direct: follow pine creek trail .38 miles to the 2nd sign for fire ecology trail turn left take the trail across the year round stream (probably dried up at this point,) climb the wash, follow the arnight trail to knoll trail and complete the steps mentioned above. This is 2.2 miles and more difficult.

The last 3/4 mile is all steep uphill (100 feet elevation gain or so per 1/10th of a mile. Approximately 1,170 feet elevation gain total.)

The approach is probably 1-2 hours if you are carrying a bunch of gear. Apr 10, 2022

Serge S
Seattle, WA

Some maps show the main path to Cloud Tower as branching from Knoll Trail just *south* of the creek crossing. That does ultimately work but isn't great. The more traveled one seems to branch off Knoll just *north* of the creek crossing. Oct 31, 2023