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Butler Corridor Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Butler Corridor

L › R R › L A › Z

	Dysecdysis T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	I Saw Daddy Kissing Santa S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Oh Frenchie Wee Wee Gee In September S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Secret of Mother Butler (aka Appetite for Destruction), The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Spot Craft T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Viper, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

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GPS:	34.04583, -116.14219 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Vernon Stiefel on Nov 18, 2003 · Updates
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.

The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

This north - south running clandestine corridor, filled with huge nolina plants, is formed by Roundup Rock on the east and a nameless crag on the west. The nameless crag is east of Thrutcher Dome. Large boulders on the south and north ends obfuscate the view into the corridor. There are several excellent crack climbs that make the circuitous approach into the corridor worth the time involved.

This area is also described as the Snake Pit (pg. 307) in Randy's '92 guidebook.

Getting There

One approach is to enter the aptly named Prickly Pear Canyon flanked by Thrutcher Dome on the east and the nameless crag on the west. Walk a few hundred feet north towards the base of a cactus covered hill. At the base of the hill are some large boulders on your left and a very narrow chimney / corridor on your right that leads into Butler Corridor.

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Butler Corridor

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 4 ● Oh Frenchie Wee Wee Gee In Septe… Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 6 ● I Saw Daddy Kissing Santa Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 4 ● The Viper Trad