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Routes in Butler Corridor

Dysecdysis T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
I Saw Daddy Kissing Santa S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Oh Frenchie Wee Wee Gee In September S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Secret of Mother Butler (aka Appetite for Destruction), The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Spot Craft T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Viper, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Washed Up Never Was Beens T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Don Wilson & Jack Marshall, 1988
Page Views: 439 total · 2/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on Nov 15, 2003
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This route is on the west side about 25' south of "The Secret of Mother Butler." A very large nolina is at the base of the route. Climb double cracks for about 30' and then veer left over two bulges (cruxes) before making committing moves back right near the top to the rappel station. Nice climb with varied movement (3 out of 5 stars).


Medium stoppers, small to medium TCU's, and cams to 3" provide adequate protection. Slings at the top for the rappel can be used as an anchor (cams to back it up).


Vernon Stiefel
Vernon Stiefel  
The exit move is not on loose rock but requires some difficult traversing without protection. A fall would be undesirable (of course) but probably not result in injury. Nov 19, 2003
100 route, multiple cruxes with rests in between. I exited to the left rather than the right. This protects well, but may be a .10d move.

Edited to say: .10d?? seems harder without the pockets full of sand, and that was following. Dec 8, 2003
A good and varied route. Also exited out left (seemed 10d/11a that way -- but I'm light). 3 of 5 stars.

Gave it another star to balance out AJ's ultra low star rating. May 21, 2006

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