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Routes in Butler Corridor

Dysecdysis T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
I Saw Daddy Kissing Santa S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Oh Frenchie Wee Wee Gee In September S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Secret of Mother Butler (aka Appetite for Destruction), The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Spot Craft T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Viper, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Washed Up Never Was Beens T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 63 total, 1/month
Shared By: Murf on Nov 3, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This long pitch crosses a large face via an arching left to right crack. Climb the crack with nice jams interspersed with long moves, mostly smearing for feet. About 1/2 way across you encounter the crux, with hard "horizontal laybacking" off a rail. This type of movement continues until you can jam again, almost at the end of the traverse.

Continue climbing (optional large piece) around the corner to easier, but fun climbing up a groove/crack.

The face needs some cleanup, but is mostly solid, not the kitty litter some loose faces have. Due partially to its traversing nature this pitch is quite long.

Location

This route is located on the east side of the Butler Corridor. If entering from the North (the best approach) it is the first known route on the left. Start on boulders to the left of the crack, which doesn't quite reach the ground.

Protection

Full rack, doubles in .5 - 2 Camalots, keep a #1 Camalot for the last piece. It's tipped out, but the best thing you can get (5.7 climbing).A #4 Camalot is nice for the end of the traverse.

To descend, go south (climber's right) up and continue to a corridor. Go down the corridor and circle back down to the south end of the Butler corridor.

Photos

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Randy
  5.11c
Randy  
  5.11c
A rap anchor (a sling around a small boulder) can be found down and right of the top out. Several other climbs are on this wall. Oct 19, 2009