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Routes in Butler Corridor

Dysecdysis T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
I Saw Daddy Kissing Santa S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Oh Frenchie Wee Wee Gee In September S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Secret of Mother Butler (aka Appetite for Destruction), The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Spot Craft T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Viper, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Washed Up Never Was Beens T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: (TR) Kelby Burnham, Tim Pinar, (Lead) Todd Gordon, Tim Pinar, Brett Pinar, Eric, Matthew
Page Views: 1,355 total, 14/month
Shared By: Randy on Apr 6, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is the left-hand of two face climbs on the south face of the Eiffel Tower. The Eiffel Tower is a large summit-pinnacle which lies on the left (west) side of the southern entrance to the Butler Corridor.

Climb a short crack/pillar/crack feature on the left side of the face. A fixed angle piton is found here -- though perfect cams fit here and seem much more secure.

Above the crack, face climb pretty much directly up past seven bolts and one more fixed pin. The climbing is sustained and excellent.

Two bolt anchor. Upgraded 1/2015

Location

The best approach for the Eiffel Tower is to hike to the base of the southern entrance to Butler Corridor. To reach the southern end of Butler Corridor, from the vicinity of the Red Obelisk, continue east for 25 yards. Now either:
(1) Turn left and take Prickly Pear Canyon north for about 20 yards, until you can cut right (east) over fairly level ground until you drop into a wash emanating from the Butler Corridor; or
(2) Continue east from the Red Obelisk in the main wash for another 100+ yards, and until you can circle around low rocks on your left and reach the southern entrance from the southeast.

Once below the southern entrance to the Butler Corridor, there is much vegetation and cacti. Stay to the far right of the gully, and scramble up boulders, staying on the right until you are just in the Butler Corridor. Once in the corridor, head left up to the base of the Eiffel Tower.

Protection

You can do this route with draws only, but most climbers would place a 0.75 to 1.5 inch cam in the initial crack, bypassing the angle.

Photos

Rolf Rybak   BC
A great climb, unbelievably steep for a slab climb, mentally taxing all the way but a enough well placed bolts to keep it sane. Mar 15, 2016
Randy
 
Randy  
 
Description has been updated to reflect the new anchor. Thanks Todd! Feb 26, 2015
Murf
  5.10
Murf  
  5.10
Thanks Todd, this is a great route and it needed the upgrade! Jan 21, 2015
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
 
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
 
The "Ghetto" anchor has been replaced by two bolts with rings......... Jan 21, 2015