Elevation: 6,116 ft
GPS: 43.8478, -103.5717
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 92,892 total · 364/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Jun 25, 2002
Admins: Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty

Description

Middle Earth can be a very confusing area to visit. It is climbed in much less often than the Outlets, so expect solitude on most routes. Many routes require the better part of a rope length, requiring two ropes to rappel. Some good climbs are Hrum Hroom and Three Rings for the Elven Kings (very popular though).

This area's theme is inspired by J.R. Tolkien's Lord of the Rings (long before the movie came out). The names come right from places and characters in these books. How appopriate too, as this area has a very magical feel to it...

Getting There

Follow the signs from Hill City to Sylvan Lake (same as the Outlets). Hike around the lake heading north from the car. Walk through the Outlets until reaching the field north of Outer Outlet. From here, walk up the hill on the trail using switchbacks. At this hill crest is where Middle Earth begins. A left up another hill brings one to Hrum Hroom and Quickbeam. Most routes are located by heading down the hill from this crest and heading up gullies between rock formations.

52 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Middle Earth

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 33
Trail of Teeth
Sport
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 41
Quickbeam
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 57
Second Breakfast
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 48
Hrum Hroom
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 47
Of Quartz It Goes
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 40
Left Wing of Smaug
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 84
Waste Knot
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 41
The Outer Shadow aka Morannon
Trad, Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 21
There and Back Again
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 46
Three Rings for the Elven Kings
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 22
Shelob
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
 12
Thrain
Trad, Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
 13
Thror
Trad, Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
 18
Knob Goblin
Trad
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 33
Goldberry Lane
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Trail of Teeth Towers of Teeth > Guardian
 33
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport
Quickbeam Fanghorn Hills
 41
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport
Second Breakfast Towers of Teeth > Ephel Duath
 57
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Hrum Hroom Fanghorn Hills
 48
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Of Quartz It Goes Far Downs
 47
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Left Wing of Smaug Far Downs
 40
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Waste Knot Towers of Teeth > Ephel Duath
 84
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Outer Shadow aka Morannon Towers of Teeth > Ephel Duath
 41
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Sport
There and Back Again Near Downs
 21
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Three Rings for the Elven K… Erebor
 46
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Shelob Torech Ungol
 22
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Thrain Near Downs
 12
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 Trad, Sport
Thror Near Downs
 13
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 Trad, Sport
Knob Goblin W Lies Mirkwood
 18
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 Trad
Goldberry Lane Ered Lithui
 33
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
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