All Locations > S Dakota > Custer SP > Sylvan Lake

Middle Earth Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Middle Earth

Barad Dur 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Digit 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

East Lies Iron Hills 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Erebor 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Ered Lithui 4 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6

Fanghorn Hills 2 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Far Downs 7 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9

Gror 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Khazad Dum 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Near Downs 9 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11

Torech Ungol 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Towers of Teeth 6 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12

West Lies Mirkwood 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Explore this area in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	6,116 ft	1,864 m
GPS:	43.8478, -103.5717 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	93,781 total · 338/month
Shared By:	Peter Gram on Jun 25, 2002
Admins:	Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Middle Earth can be a very confusing area to visit. It is climbed in much less often than the Outlets, so expect solitude on most routes. Many routes require the better part of a rope length, requiring two ropes to rappel. Some good climbs are Hrum Hroom and Three Rings for the Elven Kings (very popular though).

This area's theme is inspired by J.R. Tolkien's Lord of the Rings (long before the movie came out). The names come right from places and characters in these books. How appopriate too, as this area has a very magical feel to it...

Getting There

Follow the signs from Hill City to Sylvan Lake (same as the Outlets). Hike around the lake heading north from the car. Walk through the Outlets until reaching the field north of Outer Outlet. From here, walk up the hill on the trail using switchbacks. At this hill crest is where Middle Earth begins. A left up another hill brings one to Hrum Hroom and Quickbeam. Most routes are located by heading down the hill from this crest and heading up gullies between rock formations.

58 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Middle Earth

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 81 ● Second Breakfast Sport Towers of Teeth > Ephel Duath
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 55 ● Of Quartz It Goes Sport Far Downs
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 45 ● Left Wing of Smaug Trad Far Downs
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 100 ● Waste Knot Sport Towers of Teeth > Ephel Duath
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 8 ● West Rib Trad 2 pitches Near Downs
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 25 ● There and Back Again Trad Near Downs
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 49 ● Three Rings for the Elven Kings Trad Erebor
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 27 ● Shelob Trad Torech Ungol
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 12 ● Thrain Trad, Sport Near Downs
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 14 ● Thror Trad, Sport Near Downs
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 21 ● Knob Goblin Trad W Lies Mirkwood
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 36 ● Goldberry Lane Sport Ered Lithui
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a 4 ● One Ring to Rule Them All Trad E Lies Iron Hills
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 9 ● Right Wight Trad Near Downs
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b 6 ● Wight Out of Hell Trad Near Downs