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Routes in Near Downs

Abridged Version, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Belly of the Dragon T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Fool of a Took T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ghostwriter S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Right Wight T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Straight Outta Mordor S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
There and Back Again T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thrain T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Thror T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Unknown 1 T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unknown 2 T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
West Rib T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 125 ft
FA: Tony Schwartz & Chris Hirsch (Ground-up) 5/2015
Page Views: 919 total, 30/month
Shared By: Chris Hirsch on May 3, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

Very long and enjoyable, meandering, mixed climb. Start up the large left facing flake and follow the next three bolts from there to the angling jug rail. Place a #4. Step left at the 4th bolt. Find a couple more finger size pieces as you trend up right. Follow three more bolts to the belay perch.

Location

This starts downhill from Right Wight and Thrain/Thror routes. Just left of the small fin of rock holding a couple of large chockstones against the wall. 70m rope rap.

Protection

7 Bolts
Finger size gear + #4
Bolt anchor w/ rap rings

Photos

Ryan Emery
Black Hills, SD
  5.9 PG13
Ryan Emery   Black Hills, SD
  5.9 PG13
A great route with lots of excitement the whole way up! A very long sustained 5.8+/5.9 pitch. Spectacular! Your time will not be wasted when you climb There and Back Again and still won't be wasted when you go there and back again a second time! Sep 19, 2016
Ted Kryzer
Rochester, MN
  5.8+
Ted Kryzer   Rochester, MN
  5.8+
Classic route! Route finding and the multiple cruxes kept it interesting from bottom to top. Bring the gear as stated above and it protects just fine, even the #4. Jul 5, 2016
dreed05
5.8+
dreed05  
5.8+
Excellent route, with thoughtful bolt spacing and routefinding. finger size gear between bolts were pretty decent, and the #4 placement was certainly good enough for an experienced leader to be satisfied. There was even a good cam placement protecting the moves to the first bolt. Amazing moves on the arete to the anchors! Jul 14, 2015
harrison t
Black Hills, SD
  5.8+ PG13
harrison t   Black Hills, SD
  5.8+ PG13
So you're giving this route 1 star because you got scared? This is a great route. Great rock with creative and spaced gear, but definitely not for the budding 5.8 or even 5.9 leader. Think of this route as somewhat of a 'test piece' for the harder lines in the needles. Jul 6, 2015
Seth Hogan
Frisco, Co
 
Seth Hogan   Frisco, Co
 
Sadly I went into this one with gear and didn't use any. It is very runout and any pro you place is going to be marginal at best. The number 4 is a joke, don't bring it. As I rapped, I hung and tried to find more gear placements and all I could come up with is a couple creative marginal slung small horns, and a small placement somewhere around the right trending rail around the 4th bolt, just above the tiny tree growing out of it. The climb itself was good, and all of the bolts do protect the hardest moves. But be prepared for a generally sustained climb with serious run outs between all pieces of pro with a mild touch of route finding, since the bolts are so far apart. Better idea would be to forget about this route and go around to "Fool of a Took." Jul 5, 2015