Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Far Downs

Bard S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Wing of Smaug T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Of Quartz It Goes S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Orcrist T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wet Elf T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Sport, 125 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,877 total, 19/month
Shared By: John Gunnels on Sep 7, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


28 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Dingus McGee's guide book rates this route 5.6. I thought it felt a bit stiffer than that. Big quartz knobs gradually become smaller and slope the "wrong" way. A couple moves between bolts 4 and 6 make you concentrate... just as the wall bulges a bit... hence "my" grade.

Location

As you approach from the West end of Far Downs, "Of Quartz It Goes" is the third bolted line you encounter on the North Face of the formation. NOTABLE LANDMARK: You must scramble up a small "boulder" to find the start of the route.

Protection

The first couple bolts call for quick draws. However, I would recommend shoulder length runners for the rest of this route as it wanders quite a ways to the right... and then back left to the summit.

Photos

Super cruiser and fun. However, a 70 won't quite get you down to the ground unless it's a pretty long 70. You have to downclimb the last few moves. If bringing beginners up this route I'd bring two 60s. Jul 13, 2016
Mike Madsen
Rapid City
  5.7+
Mike Madsen   Rapid City  
  5.7+
IMHO this route is one if not the best for the grade in this area. Don't let the grade fool you this is a very exposed climb with beautiful rose quartz holds. Definitely bring Alpine draws as the route tends to zig zag. Couple of thin moves and a few thinker moves between I believe bolts 4-5? You can either use 2 ropes to rap or 1 70m. If you only have a 60m you can climb to the notch anchor and then rap off the opposite side (east). Or you can rap down to Bards anchors and then rap off those. Jul 12, 2015
Jeff Moon
Rapid City, SD
  5.7
Jeff Moon   Rapid City, SD
  5.7
About 2/3 of the way up, the route keeps wandering to the right and you will be looking up at a notch/chimney on the right and a face on the left. You won't be able to see the next bolt from here, but keep going right. I went left at this point and got extremely run out on the face. Once you climb up into this notch is when the route begins to head left towards the chains. Dec 12, 2014
Wilson On The Drums
Woodbury, MN
  5.7
Wilson On The Drums   Woodbury, MN
  5.7
great route. the traverses weren't too bad and 5.7 seemed appropriate. the second short pitch with the 3 bolts was a blast too. i felt the crux was at about the 4th bolt on the 1st pitch and 1st bolt on the second. Jul 11, 2013
Mark Orsag
Omaha, NE
  5.8-
Mark Orsag   Omaha, NE
  5.8-
Bolts have been replaced and added. Been a few years since I have done this one. I forget how many there were honestly... May 7, 2013
Mark Orsag
Omaha, NE
  5.8-
Mark Orsag   Omaha, NE
  5.8-
The vertical parts where just fun cruises, but the traverses were really tricky for the advertised grade-- particularly the 2nd one if I am remembering right... May 2, 2013
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
Wow. Back in the day, I think it had 3 or 4 bolts, one of which had a hanger that was nearly rusted through. I'm not upset to see this route retro-bolted with permission, but I hope not every old sparsely protected route gets the same treatment. Sep 9, 2009
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
How are the bolts on this? When I did this route back in the early 90s they were awful and far apart - I remember being terrified. Sep 8, 2009