Avg: 3.6 from 34 votes
|Type:||Trad, 140 ft (42 m)|
|FA:||Paul Muehl & Pete DeLannoy Direct Finish: Chris Hirsh and Kyaera Amo July 2019|
|Page Views:||2,005 total · 18/month|
|Shared By:||Brent Kertzman on Aug 31, 2012|
|Admins:||Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty|
There are several classics on this same formation that will provide a days worth of climbing in the spicy but safe 5.7 to 5.10 range.
Climb the bolted groove until it becomes possible to jam up under Smaug's Left Wing.
Setting a belay at the top of the notch is possible. A short distance around the corner is a set of bolted anchors located on the south side of the formation to belay from.
The summit of the Dragon's Head can be climbed from the notch belay stance. Follow a rising diagonal counter-clockwise starting on the north side of the Dragon's Head.
There currently are no fixed anchors at the Dragon's Head summit. Be prepared to down lead back to the notch. A great little 5.7 summit.
Protection is possible on the way up. Some longer slings are useful to set a tope rope for those who aren't up to down lead from the Dragon's Head.
If you don't mind walking a short distance back around to the north face you, can safely rappel from the south side anchors with one 60 meter rope.
It is possible to climb a little higher and belay at a set of bolted anchors in a smaller notch on the east/left side of the groove. Two ropes are required to rappel back down the route from these anchors.
The Dragon's Head is quite visible as you drive from Hill City along Highway 87/89. Smaug's Head is best viewed from the lower two switch-backs.