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Routes in Near Downs

Abridged Version, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Belly of the Dragon T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Fool of a Took T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ghostwriter S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Right Wight T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Straight Outta Mordor S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
There and Back Again T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thrain T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Thror T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Unknown 1 T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unknown 2 T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
West Rib T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Paul Piana
Page Views: 451 total, 9/month
Shared By: Dave Rone on Aug 18, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

Start from the boulder that lies just left of the big off width crack near the center of the south face. Face climb up and right past two (old) bolts to the crack where it begins to narrow. Climb the crack to its end and make a difficult move left to the bottom of a second crack, then up to a ledge. Now climb up and right to a bolt, then left to easier climbing and the summit.

Location

South side of Near Downs, starts left of the obvious off width. Requires a two-rope rappel

Protection

Take gear from RP's to #3 Camalot for the cracks, and draws for four bolts.

Photos

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harrison t
Black Hills, SD
  5.11+
harrison t   Black Hills, SD
  5.11+
Starts in the OW. Make sure to double up on finger sizes, maybe even 3 bd .5 or similar and a lot of draws! Don't think the bolt after the crack is there anymore, head up right to Thrain's anchor. Really good pitch! Aug 24, 2015
Chris Hirsch
Rapid City, SD
 
Chris Hirsch   Rapid City, SD
 
So tricky! Bring extra .5's. May 3, 2015
Travis Rypkema
  5.12-
Travis Rypkema  
  5.12-
This route is so good! Definitely deserves more traffic... Aug 20, 2013