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Routes in Near Downs

Abridged Version, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Belly of the Dragon T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Fool of a Took T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ghostwriter S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Right Wight T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Straight Outta Mordor S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
There and Back Again T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thrain T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Thror T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Unknown 1 T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unknown 2 T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
West Rib T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
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Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: P. Muehl, P. Dellanoy, T. Nelson, J. Page (May 1983)
Page Views: 254 total · 6/month
Shared By: harrison t on Aug 6, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route

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This is a classy Needles adventure route with good exposure! With modern gear it protects pretty well. Great warmup for it's big brother 'The Naked Rib' on the Bartizan.

Pitch 1) Climb crack until it ends, move left to the exposed rib past a good bolt and several gear placements. Continue up the rib past a very old bolt protecting a short steep section, all the way to a 2 bolt anchor and good belay seat.

Pitch 2) Pull crux? off belay and continue up the rib finding good gear to an airy step across move to more good gear. (right below the step across will be a 2 bolt anchor for 'There and Back Again') Shortly after passing another new set of chain anchors, you'll arrive to 'Thrains' anchor. (2 good bolts, 2 buttonheads and cord)


Start at crack just right of center on the downhill (SW) end of the formation.
80m or double rope rap from 'Thrains' anchor down south side.


micro to 2, nuts, rps. offset cams are nice.
2 pro bolts
both belays are bolted w/ webbing


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harrison t
Black Hills, SD
harrison t   Black Hills, SD
May deserve an R/X until the second bolt on pitch 1 gets replaced Aug 6, 2015
Chris Hirsch
Rapid City, SD
  5.8 R
Chris Hirsch   Rapid City, SD
  5.8 R
Bolt and anchor on first pitch replaced by BHCC 6/23/17. If rapping from first pitch anchor; it's equalized to the NW side.

Great route, but the gear above each bolt is not worth putting in. Jun 26, 2017

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