Woman of Mountain Dreams
|4,821 page views|
Joanne Urioste on pitch 13 or 14, the loose stuff,...
The 2hr approach makes this route a well earned prize. Just keep moving west from the base of Resolution Arete til you get to the west side of Aeolian Tower. Climb straight up easy/wide cracks forming the west side of the Aeolian Tower for 3 pitches then the crux bolted pitch awaits on the main wall. Spicy and fun, the crux comes at the start of pitch 4 and it's well protected but a bit of a zig zag, since Joanne bolted it on lead with hooks! After that, it remains a steep mostly direct line that trends a bit left to top out. The very last couple pitches are a bit loose but nothing unmanageable. Get a late return ticket because you will take all day. Joanne and I started walking at 0430 from the highway and returned to the car @ 11pm. Awesome climb and lady.
Standard rack, bolted crux pitch and sprinkling of bolts on other pitches, bolted anchors and a couple trees.
Pitch 4 Crux 5.11a edging/smears
Woman of mountain dream pitch 4
Pitch 7/8 woman of mountain dreams
Pitch 13 airy traverse Woman of Mountain dreams
BETA PHOTO: Descend down the ridge a long ways to the final re...
BETA PHOTO: If you go too far you can look over to this tower ...
|Comments on Woman of Mountain Dreams
|By David Stowe|
Jul 21, 2008
I am looking to climb Woman of Mountain Dreams this November. We did Inti last year, so we are familiar with the approach, however there seems to be some disagreement among people here as to the best way down. Some people suggest the walk off down through First Creek Canyon, while others say the the Oak Creek method is better. Should I also assume that rapping Dogma is a bad idea? I have to assume that given the length of the route and the time of the year at least some of our descent will be in the dark. Give that what would be the best way down for us. Since this is likely a walk off is a single 70M a better option than 60M doubles?
|By Brad Warne|
From: Calgary, Alberta
Jul 22, 2008
Rapping Dogma is probably a bad idea. We did Resolution Arete a few years ago and started the descent the same time as another group that rapped Dogma. We were back to the highway 3hrs before them. Walking is faster.
|By J. Thompson|
From: denver, co
Aug 4, 2008
Dave....walk down Oak Creek. I've done it several times and it's no big deal. I got the beta for it from Joanne who insist's that it's way better than First Creek. There is much less boulder hopping.
Also if you are fast enough you can knock ALOT of hiking off both ends by Parking at the Oak Creek trailhead. You might want to get the late exit permit.
The days are short in November!
Sep 21, 2008
This thing is BIG! It's amazing that a route goes up that much rock at mostly 5.8/5.9. The 11 pitch and 10 pitches are IN YOUR FACE - delicate foot work - crimp step, crimp, step, crimp step. Be prepared for run-outs and climbing some of the loosest rock you'll climb - well, it's the loosest I've climbed. Knock on everything! What makes it worse - the loose climbing is the last three pitches. Views are awesome, climbing is varied and the day is long.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 29, 2008
Just got of it - we were worried about time since it's getting dark quickly but with a 4am wake up call at the campground, we were eating hot dogs and chili by 7!
The approach took a bit longer in the darkness, and the schwack past inti to the col was a bit annoying...oh well.
The 1st 3 pitches aren't bad, the next two sport pitches are well protected, but the bolt after you pull over the roof is farther than we expected. We linked the 2 pitches with a 60m after the 4th class (actually 4th class thank god) and they were full-on 10a and 5.9 with some bold climbing and pro placements. Actually everything past the 4th class pitch was pretty bold with very sporty gear and space between said gear in spots. There is a MONEY pitch - after some technical gear fiddling you're rewarded with an awesome handcrack. Also the "airy" traverse pitch with a bolt is also sweet, but it downshifts back into spicy terrain after a bitchin thin crack. The pitch that requires the "30 foot up a crack to the left, followed be another step left" that puts you in a bunch of bushes....keep going left and up another crack system over left. It puts you on a ledge and then you can face climb directly up to the bushy anchor ledge. There are hidden cracks that offer REALLY good gear.
A brilliant line you will remember for a while. I kept thinking that it was not your typical uriosite route as only one pitch was well bolted (and even those bolts were a bit more spaced than other routes of theirs). I didn't think it was loose at all and I doubt it's had enough ascents to clean up much. To those that complain about it being loose, I can offer some suggestions to make this route seem splitter :)- I'd still put the Res. Arete as the best trad route on the wall I've done.
Thanks for putting it up, I had a lot of fun even though I wouldn't recommend it b/c I'd probably get yelled at by the person I suggest it to! Thanks to the previous party for your bail gear!
Gear (all anchors are bolted except the big pine tree pitch). One single 60m rope. 12 slings/draws. Doubles from green alien size to #2 camalot. One blue alien size, one #3 camalot, and one #4 (new size) camalot. Some nuts and some rps. The pitches are all mostly very long and since the rock isn't great, I liked having a bit more gear to back my ass up. I emptied the rack on the hand crack pitch. The route goes quickly if you do.
|By Nick Dolecek|
From: Denver, Colorado
Dec 13, 2008
I would second the things that have been said so far. This is a cerebral route. All the pitches are cruiser at the grade with the exception of the crux pitch. The crux is thin and technical. What makes this route unique is the heady nature of the climbing, and the fact that there is enough natural gear to be had not to be too crazy.
It is a good long day, and goes very fast due to the bolted anchors. A good warm up route is 'Fiddler on the roof'. If you feel confident on this, you will be alright on the woman.
This is the funnest route I have done thus far at RR. Great partner, Impecable weather, and just enough adventure to feel tough at the end of day without being crushed.
|By Tim Wolfe|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 20, 2010
rating: 5.11- PG13
I definitely think this route deserves a star simply for being the proudest line straight up the center of the one of the biggest walls in Red Rocks and another star for being so serious. This is far more serious than Fiddler on the roof - if you screw up here you are on your own a LONG ways from help and facing a very difficult self rescue. The route progressively deteriorates to loose, wet and dangerous climbing so is truly an adventure desert rockaneering route not to be taken lightly. For those planning on this route I will give a bit of beta here dont read it if you wish to have pure adventure.
The Approach 2 to 2.5 hours: Walk behind Wilsons pimple almost to the high point of the pass just north of there is some flat camp sites go West here aiming for the hillside just to the right of the red dirt gully. Wander up this to the base of the loose red cliff- go left around that section to the White rot gully and climb it up and right under the chock stone to the base of the cliffs. Walk right bushwhacking all the way to the top of the gully (past Inti), then down a short distance on the other side. Third class back up a gully some stemming and climbing up a red gully for about 500 feet, then traverse left to a big pine tree at the route base.
The climb: Gear 1 set of wires, one set of cams to #3 Camalot size, 10-12 long slings and a few quick draws (or just use long slings). Most of the pitches are 100-120 feet, none are very long. This is a serious climb that would be hard to get a rescue on and is full of loose, dirty rock so be prepared. Pitches 1-3 dirty climbing up the gully, you can traverse right up some moss covered wacos at start of pitch 3 and climb a dirty corner to the ledge at the base of the hard pitch if you want to bypass the fatter cracks in the gully. Pitch 4 5.11a great well bolted thin 5.11 (at start) edge-smearing to a hanging belay about 100 feet up. Pitch 5 5.9/10a mossy, dirty climbing in sections but pretty easy for the grade. Pitch 6- 4th class. Pitch 7/8 5.9/10a really nice steep climbing up center of face with pretty good protection and good crimpy holds easy to link both pitches to a hanging belay. Pitch 9 5.9/10a Stout for the 5.9 grade great climbing in steep crack sections up and then right of belay. Pitch 10 climb initial crack on left for 30 feet, step left and climb next crack for 20 feet (it gets really dirty above), step left 10 feet (do not go all the way to next obvious crack since it is off width) into an incipient crack system that takes good gear and climb the dirty face. Pitch 11 5.8 dirty run-out sometimes loose pitch to the right of the arete. If you have 3 big cams, the dihedral/roof above looks great and would be cleaner and more aesthetic. Pitch 12 5.8 climb dirty moss covered ramp to left (be sure to put gear in here as you wont get anything when you climb off the ramp into the system above.) At end of ramp climb run-out section into the loose chossy corner being careful not to pull of any giant blocks. Step left at top of corner to a great ledge belay. Pitch 13 5.9 cool traverse right over a steep section past a bolt, then up a dirty thin crack, step left to a moss filled crack and get a piece of gear then climb the run-out face to its right (unless you want to garden out the moss and dirt in the crack. Pitch 14 5.8 choss be sure your belayer is in safe area since this pitch is a wet, moss and dirt covered overhanging pile of looseness. Carefully climb straight up to the tree. Exit traverse right a distance to the gully climb past initial steep section of the gully then about 100 feet up the gully at which point it gets steep and hard go left here to the ridge and a tree for a belay. Next section follows the weaknesses of the ridge (3rd class) to the last 20 foot section of red rock a few 5.7 moves put you on the summit.
The descent: This is easy if long (3 hours - SEE PHOTOS) look west from the summit. At the far end of the sandstone, just before the limestone is a steep curving sandstone ridge this is your goal. Do not go down to soon, do not start down until you are sure you are in the giant ponderosas (not the scrub Junipers). Notice the white sandstone ridge all the way west to that point you want to follow this ridge all the way west. Beware that about Ό way out you drop down into a large drainage. Do NOT go down this drainage but instead climb back out the left side (look at it in advance to figure out where to climb out - it is deep, steep and if done wrong will be 5th class) and continue descending the white sandstone ridgeline. At the end of the rock ridgeline you drop into another wash that has limestone scree on the opposite side notice a ridge line on the opposite side of that scree hill that is your goal - Walk down the West-facing hillside then very slightly up the limestone scree hill and right onto that ridge. Follow that ridge further back and you will drop into the big ponderosa pine stand, which lets you know you are on route. At this ponderosa stand descend to the right down and north into the small drainage - it feels too small but it is the right direction. After a few minutes you will come into an open section with a huge red tower that has a rock balanced on top. Traverse around the right (north) side of that tower then back left onto the steep water worn multicolored slabs. Weave you way down these slabs into the start of the South fork of Oak creek descend all the way to your car. The upper section has some big drops that can be walked around except in two sections where there are fixed rappels or fixed rope to hand over hand descend.
|By Xavier Wasiak|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 8, 2012
Tim's beta and gear recommendations are right on. Given how the top 400+/- feet wander, I feel it's probably better to unrope and scramble if you are comfortable. It's also a lot of fun with huge exposure. Although the upper pitches do deteriorate in quality, with few exceptions, they're still fun and on a couple, the exposure and positions feel really crazy. The descent is cool and passes some beautiful areas. As of 11/4/12, the fixed lines were still in place where needed. Only thing I'd add about the descent is that it is a lot further back into the top of Oak Creek than you might originally think. KEEP going. You will see the tower with the rock balanced on top if you are in the right area. Also, don't be pulled prematurely to the right (north) by cairns as you start walking west towards the rear of Oak Creek. I am curious, however, as to where they lead.