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Taken from the first belay - the crack on the left...
To approach the Left Book, you take the Book trail, but actually then leave it to the left on the trail to the Bookmark. Hike around west of the Bookmark, and then, follow the "trail" (i.e. bushwhack) up past the chimneyish recess separating the Bookmark from the Book, to the base of the slabby cliff, which will be on the right. Unfortunately it is somewhat difficult to distinguish between routes here.
P1. The first pitch of White Whale is a crack that leads up to a tree about 10 feet above a rectangular roof. The correct crack intersects the very left edge of the roof band and is very easy at the start; similar cracks lie to the left of this one.
P2. The cracks on pitch two lie flush on the slab and angle up and somewhat left from the belay; fantastic 5.7. Belay on the left side of a large concave roof/bulge/alcove after a full ropelength.
P3. The third pitch goes up a crack around the left edge of this feature, and then wanders up a steeper wall to the walk-off ledge and a tree belay (a little run-out; be sure to avoid a black water groove on the right which is 5.8 and totally unprotected). One can avoid the final wall by traversing left to the walk-off ledge after the initial crack on P3.
P4. Addendum: Wide, right-angling crack above walkoff ledge.
Bring a standard rack, emphasizing small gear.
It has enough features and short-enough traverses to allow a shorter (7-8 year old) to ascend without excessive difficulty.
Rich about halfway up P2.
Gabe leading the second glorious pitch of White Wh...
Unknown climbers on the second pitch. Photo taken ...
Just another day in the hood....
Jaclyn, 8, enjoying P1. This climb is reasonable ...
Andy Mcguire on the first pitch very cold rock, I ...
Paul cruising up the 1st pitch of White Whale.
BETA PHOTO: The third pitch, taken from Cottontail.
BETA PHOTO: Tanya following p2 of White Whale. Climber to her ...
The super fun 1st pitch.
First pitch (supposed to go around the left side o...
BETA PHOTO: Looking down on a nice flake from the top of pitch...
Me coming up the thin, flaring crack on p2 of Whit...
|By Chris Fisher|
Jul 23, 2001
We started early and had the climb to ourselves. The climb had good protection and would make a great starter trad lead. I set the second belay on a dirty, vegetated ledge. We finished up and right from here with a short face section. This section had some long reaches but bomber holds.
|By jeff mcnair|
Apr 9, 2002
Bomber! Great route. Great pro. Definitely deserves three stars. Lots of other great multi-pitch moderates in the area, too.
|By Joe Keyser|
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Apr 11, 2002
I'd say that this is one of my favorite routes of its grade that I've done anywhere... I 2nd, 3rd, 4th or whatever, the 3-star rating!
|By Warren Teissier|
Jun 14, 2002
I felt this was a really nice and comfortable 5.7.
Not necesarily comparable to other Lumpy Ridge 5.7. Perhaps it was the relatively low angle or the readily available amount of pro.
Great fun climb.
|By Gabe Anderson|
Apr 27, 2003
Great fun. 2nd pitch is a full rope length if you use a 50 meter rope. Be sure to save some hand/fist pro for the 2nd belay in the small nook left of the roof. The entire route is very well protected. A definite must do.
|By Tonya Clement|
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 4, 2003
Great 4th of July climb if you are the first one on the route. We pulled into the parking lot at 5:30 am (first car). By the time we came off the route, the entire rock was filled with climbers. On this super hot day, we were in the shade all morning. This route is fabulous. I am trying to do more leads without first following someone. This is the perfect route to just jump on. It protects well (make sure you are comfortable with hanging belays - one is needed at the top of P2). P1 gives you ample opportunity to use your hexes if you carry them. The travers ng under the little roof at the top of P1 tests your patience...it isn't hard....it just requires you to do a little undercling. As you come around the left edge the crack to grab is quite thin....trust the feet as they stick. P2 has a super fun crack to climb. You can foot jam it all the way or use the features on each side. It does angle up and left to the big roof. This climb is one I will do again and again.
|By Anthony Lopez|
Jan 19, 2004
Great climb, deserves every star. Don't hesitate to do this climb, it's worth the hike.
|By Dustin Bauer|
Jun 19, 2004
A much more moderate route it definitely put a smile on my face. Until the walk off in my rock shoes. All in all unless you ware your shoes like sunday slippers. I recommend bringin a pair to hike down with. Enjoy... for the alpine bunch this would be a fun route to do with mountaineering boots for practice. Peace, Love, and Chicken Grease !!!
|By Be Esperanza|
From: Asheville, NC
Apr 20, 2005
The crack on the 2nd pitch is about as good as it gets! The 3rd pitch is a little run out.
|By Gary Schmidt|
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 19, 2005
The second pitch is as good a lead as you will find at this grade. Keeps going and going, tons of fun. However, imho, this climb is much easier than its neighboring climb, Haitus which is also rated 5.7. Don't be fooled.
|By craggin carl|
Aug 2, 2005
Good moves at the crux, slabby and exciting, I hardly had to jam the crack. Good route.
|By Charles Danforth|
From: L'ville, CO
Aug 16, 2005
My first time at Lumpy and my first bonafide 5.7 trad lead. Blindly following the crack/seam at the upper end of P2, I found myself under the large roof, on wet rock, 20' above my last (marginal) gear, and desperately wanting something better. If you head left a little earlier up a face, you get to a nice set of shallow cracks which take gear. From there, you can extend P2 around to the left of the large roof into a chimney where it's a little easier to set a belay. The moves out of this chimney (beginning of P3) were a little spicy and committing, but over quickly.
Great route and a real confidence-builder for my trad leading skills.
|By Mark Hyams|
Apr 13, 2006
I think the only real 5.7 part of this climb is the thin, shallow corner 20 feet below the first belay tree. The rest is 5.6, IMO, including the second pitch, hence it feeling easier than its neighbor, Hiatus which is significantly harder and more sustatined at 5.7+.
|By Jim Matt|
From: Indianapolis, IN
Jun 11, 2006
This is a great route, however, please heed the warning to avoid the water groove on the right near the top of the third pitch. I did not, and paid the price by taking a ~40' whipper (fortunately, my gear and belayer held). I made the mistake of not checking the guidebook before hand. That water groove IMHO is more like polished 5.9+ R/X. Otherwise...very cool and well protected route...I'll be back in August to do it ON ROUTE! :)
|By David Hodges|
From: Parker, Colorado
Jun 26, 2006
FWIW, I found Tricams to be very useful on this route. I would not recommend this for new 5.7 leaders, the climbing is easy but you have a couple places with a decent run that may spook fledgling leaders at the grade. IMHO.
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 23, 2007
Fun route! It is possible to do this route in 2 pitches if you go past the tree at the usual P1 belay and keep running to the crack systems at the diagonal about 1/2 way from the tree up to the roof. If I recall correctly the belay took a hand size cam upside down under a flake (#1 or #2 Camalot) and a couple of nuts. We did this with a 60 meter rope, and there was snow on the ground so our starting point was maybe 3 or 4 meters above the ground proper. 1 belay instead of 2 = faster and more fun!! I did this as a 5.10+ trad climber on a 5.7 route with lots of hanging belays under my belt. If you're climbing close to your limit, stick with the standard belays.
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 21, 2008
Excellent! I would highly recommend carrying a set of DMM double tapered nuts (are these called Wallnuts?). In any event, they are suitable nuts for flared cracks, and there are plenty of locations on this climb where they protected MUCH better than my standard set of Metolius nuts.
|By Steve Knapp|
From: Highlands Ranch, CO
Sep 7, 2008
We did all four pitches on this, our first ever at Lumpy. Awesome route! P1 is mostly easy with the toughest move at the flake below the belay tree. Nice finger crack there. P2 is totally sweet with a nice hand crack most of the way. Lots of places for nuts and cams. Slightly runout below the alcove at the end of the pitch. There is a fixed nut up there which I clipped. P3 is also fun but much more run out. You can walk off from the top of P2 if you don't want to do P3. P4 is also optional and surprised us all. It's an interesting off-width that narrows and steepens. After the crux it's easy until a roof move, and then 4th class to the top. I think most people probably skip P4.
Nov 1, 2008
Great route. Can be done in two pitches.
|By Scott McMahon|
From: Boulder, CO
May 27, 2009
Fun route. I must have lead the second pitch differently as it seemed to be more run out and balancy, putting me about 15' above gear (or at least it seemed that way). I don't remember a classic crack, just slabby moves. The pro didn't seem to be as good either, and I was glad to get to the fixed nut and underclings at the roof right before the 2nd belay. Watch out for parties behind you on Hiatus as they'll climb right through your 2nd pitch belay gully.
|By Wade Frank|
From: Littleton, CO
Aug 24, 2009
Very fun climb, easy 5.7 for Lumpy!!!
|By Paul Szymanski|
From: Park Ridge, Illinois
Sep 26, 2010
rating: 5.7 PG13
This is well protected route for someone who wants to learn how to lead. It is also one of my favorite routes on the Lumpy Ridge. The last section of the second pitch is great. This is a pure joy climb.
|By Michael Foy|
From: Denver, CO
Jun 21, 2011
Great fun, people were moving slow on the thin to flared section (about 15 feet long) on pitch 2. Weather was great, saw a bunch of people doing laps.
|By Simon Thompson|
From: New Paltz, NY
Jul 26, 2012
rating: 5.7 PG13
The first two pitches were fun. The flared finger crack on p2 was harder to protect than I expected... great toe jams though. Pitch 3 (last pitch of Hiatus, I believe?) was an on-sight route-finding challenge and made for a stressful lead.