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This cool mostly shady crag hides way out on the back side of the Iris. You'll generally have the place to yourself and find a small number of classic lines from 5.10 to 5.14. Wotai (10d), Medicine Man (11c), When I was a Young Girl.. (13a), and Throwin' the Houlihan (14a) are the must do if you can lines out here.
Walk towards the main iris, staying left and high at all junctions until you pass the Main Wall on the left. Or, approach from the main wall by hiking up the wall and joining the trail past the Rising from the Plains section. Continue on the faint trail until you start to see the mostly sunny cliffs of Gun Street and Aspen Glade in the distance, look for a faint trail off to the right (becomes most distinct shortly) heading into the pine forest with not much rock immediately visible. Soon the Erratic will show its impressive white clean face with the 14 routes on the first steep section. Mono pocket pulls anyone?
13 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Erratic:
Wotai 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Medicine Man 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Queen of hearts 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
County Ten Gunslinger 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, 30'
When I Was a Young Girl, I Had Me a Cowboy 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Featured Route For The Erratic
When I Was a Young Girl, I Had Me a Cowboy 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c WY : Wild Iris : The Erratic
Good stone, mostly pretty movement on a fairly steep wall. Starts with inobvious bouldery crux on the many to choose from -- all face the wrong way small holds to a jug just above the 1st clip. From here big movement on decent holds leads to a several cruxes up high. You'll find one of the coolest slopers at Iris before the chains....[more] Browse More Classics in WY
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