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The Erratic

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Medicine  S 
County Ten Gunslinger S 
Fat Bottom Girls S 
Full Retard S 
Heart Full of Ghosts S 
I'm a Lead Farmer, Motha' Fucker S 
Medicine Man S 
Medicine Trail Relay S 
Moonshine S 
Pale Face Magic S 
Pocket Hero S 
Queen of England S 
Queen of hearts S 
Rodeo queen  S 
Soul man 
Swallow the Gravy S 
Throwin' the Houlihan S 
When I Was a Young Girl, I Had Me a Cowboy S 
Whoa Nelly S 
Wotai S 
Wutang S 
Unsorted Routes:

The Erratic Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,850'
Location: 42.5904, -108.7396 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 9,404
Administrators: Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Sep 19, 2006


52° | 38°

54° | 41°

58° | 43°

54° | 42°

54° | 40°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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The Erratic is home to a small number of excellent...


This cool mostly shady crag hides way out on the back side of the Iris. You'll generally have the place to yourself and find a small number of classic lines from 5.10 to 5.14. Wotai (10d), Medicine Man (11c), When I was a Young Girl.. (13a), and Throwin' the Houlihan (14a) are the must do if you can lines out here.

Getting There 

Walk towards the main iris, staying left and high at all junctions until you pass the Main Wall on the left. Or, approach from the main wall by hiking up the wall and joining the trail past the Rising from the Plains section. Continue on the faint trail until you start to see the mostly sunny cliffs of Gun Street and Aspen Glade in the distance, look for a faint trail off to the right (becomes most distinct shortly) heading into the pine forest with not much rock immediately visible. Soon the Erratic will show its impressive white clean face with the 14 routes on the first steep section. Mono pocket pulls anyone?

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.2 miles from here

21 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Erratic

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Erratic:
Pocket Hero   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Wotai   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Pale Face Magic   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 50'   
Swallow the Gravy   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
I'm a Lead Farmer, Motha' Fucker   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Medicine Man   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Full Retard   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 35'   
Queen of hearts   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
County Ten Gunslinger   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 30'   
When I Was a Young Girl, I Had Me a Cowboy   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Erratic

Featured Route For The Erratic
Rock Climbing Photo: Onsighting another very beautiful classic route in...

Medicine Man 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  WY : Wild Iris : The Erratic
A fun line but quite sharp, do it when you have fresh tough skin - not a good 3rd day on route! Climbs easily up the dihedral, gradually easing right onto the arete. Prepare for the crux when you are fully on the arete and making a long move. Powerful and possibly dynamic. Fun despite the pain....[more]   Browse More Classics in WY

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