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The Bilbo Buttresses

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abandoned project TR 
Debbie Does Donuts T 
El Chapo S 
El Chivo S 
Sean Penn S 
Val De Mello S 
White Trash T 

The Bilbo Buttresses Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 34.09338, -116.15583 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,721
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Locker on Dec 4, 2003

76° | 59°

79° | 60°

79° | 63°

77° | 61°

78° | 61°

75° | 56°
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The Bilbo Buttresses, Joshua Tree NP


These are the small walls just east of Billboard Buttress. If facing Billboard Buttress, it is directly to the right. New bolted line El Chivo 5.8, 4 bolts with a 3 bolt anchor. Also White Trash 5.8, Val De Mello 5.10b and Debbie Does Donuts 5.6. A good one right out of the back of your car. Billboard Buttress is often crowded but I have found this set of climbs to be generally empty (Ask permission of course if campgroud is taken). Best climbed on weekdays!

Getting There 

From the Indian Cove entrance, drive into the main campground area (passing the group camping on right) until you see a fork in the road. Take the left, park at Billboard Buttress (by the recycling bins) immmediately on your left (Pixie Rock at the Fork on the right). Walk past Billboard Buttress into the campground right past it and BINGO!!! There ya be! Look left.........

Climbing Season

Weather station 6.3 miles from here

7 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Bilbo Buttresses

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Bilbo Buttresses:
El Chivo   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Sean Penn   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Val De Mello   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Bilbo Buttresses

Featured Route For The Bilbo Buttresses
Rock Climbing Photo: Adrienne Kentner getting slabby on Val de Mello 5....

Val De Mello 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Bilbo Buttresses
OK, maybe it was just me, but I thought this line was hard for its given grade of 10b. Around to the right of Bilbo Buttress, one can find this short line of bolts, centered on an tiny, odd, 'ramp' feature near the climb's base. Climb up and onto this and beyond. The crux was a weird combination of balance and friction that was a little unpleasant for a J-tree warm up or welcome, and felt sandbagged. None the less, the climb had merit in teaching what is possible on that rock compared to what I ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of The Bilbo Buttresses Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Closer view of the right side of Bilbo Buttresses
BETA PHOTO: Closer view of the right side of Bilbo Buttresses
Rock Climbing Photo: Bilbo Buttress. Photo by Blitzo.
Bilbo Buttress. Photo by Blitzo.

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