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The Bilbo Buttresses

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abandoned project TR 
Debbie Does Donuts T 
El Chapo S 
El Chivo S 
Sean Penn S 
Val De Mello S 
White Trash T 

The Bilbo Buttresses Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 34.09338, -116.15583 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,723
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide), Emily Roeben
Submitted By: Locker on Dec 4, 2003
Forecast:
Tonight

48°
Tuesday

71° | 46°
Wednesday

72° | 45°
Thursday

72° | 48°
Friday

72° | 49°
Saturday

70° | 50°
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Description 

These are the small walls just east of Billboard Buttress. If facing Billboard Buttress, it is directly to the right. New bolted line El Chivo 5.8, 4 bolts with a 3 bolt anchor. Also White Trash 5.8, Val De Mello 5.10b and Debbie Does Donuts 5.6. A good one right out of the back of your car. Billboard Buttress is often crowded but I have found this set of climbs to be generally empty (Ask permission of course if campgroud is taken). Best climbed on weekdays!


Getting There 

From the Indian Cove entrance, drive into the main campground area (passing the group camping on right) until you see a fork in the road. Take the left, park at Billboard Buttress (by the recycling bins) immmediately on your left (Pixie Rock at the Fork on the right). Walk past Billboard Buttress into the campground right past it and BINGO!!! There ya be! Look left.........


Climbing Season



Weather station 6.3 miles from here

7 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Bilbo Buttresses

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Bilbo Buttresses:
El Chivo   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Val De Mello   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Sean Penn   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Bilbo Buttresses

Featured Route For The Bilbo Buttresses
Rock Climbing Photo: "Debbie does Donuts". Photo by Blitzo.

Debbie Does Donuts 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Bilbo Buttresses
This route is not bad, but it's too short to be very good. Maybe it has some merit as a way of getting to the top of the rock to establish a TR on Val De Mello? In any case, out on the far right end of the Bilbo Buttress, there is a notch between the end towers. In that nothch, on the right hand side there is a hand and fist crack, should you scramble up to it (or just scramble up it). One can scramble off or retreat from anchors above Val De Mello. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of The Bilbo Buttresses Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Bilbo Buttresses, Joshua Tree NP
The Bilbo Buttresses, Joshua Tree NP
Rock Climbing Photo: Closer view of the right side of Bilbo Buttresses
BETA PHOTO: Closer view of the right side of Bilbo Buttresses

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