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The Bilbo Buttresses

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abandoned project TR 
Debbie Does Donuts T 
El Chapo S 
El Chivo S 
Sean Penn S 
Val De Mello S 
White Trash T 

The Bilbo Buttresses Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 34.09338, -116.15583 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,489
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Locker on Dec 4, 2003
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The Bilbo Buttresses, Joshua Tree NP

Description 

These are the small walls just east of Billboard Buttress. If facing Billboard Buttress, it is directly to the right. New bolted line El Chivo 5.8, 4 bolts with a 3 bolt anchor. Also White Trash 5.8, Val De Mello 5.10b and Debbie Does Donuts 5.6. A good one right out of the back of your car. Billboard Buttress is often crowded but I have found this set of climbs to be generally empty (Ask permission of course if campgroud is taken). Best climbed on weekdays!


Getting There 

From the Indian Cove entrance, drive into the main campground area (passing the group camping on right) until you see a fork in the road. Take the left, park at Billboard Buttress (by the recycling bins) immmediately on your left (Pixie Rock at the Fork on the right). Walk past Billboard Buttress into the campground right past it and BINGO!!! There ya be! Look left.........


Climbing Season



Weather station 6.3 miles from here

7 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Bilbo Buttresses

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Bilbo Buttresses:
El Chivo   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Sean Penn   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Val De Mello   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Bilbo Buttresses

Featured Route For The Bilbo Buttresses
Rock Climbing Photo: A. Val de Mello, 5.10c B. Sean Penn 5.10d C. El Ch...

El Chapo 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Bilbo Buttresses
Climb the south buttress of the pillar starting 30 feet down and right right from Sean Penn.El Chapo meets Sean Penn at the 2-bolt anchor....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of The Bilbo Buttresses Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Closer view of the right side of Bilbo Buttresses
BETA PHOTO: Closer view of the right side of Bilbo Buttresses
Rock Climbing Photo: Bilbo Buttress. Photo by Blitzo.
Bilbo Buttress. Photo by Blitzo.

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