Silent Scream (aka Shock the Monkey) 

There was an accident here recently (early October 2002?) in which the TR anchor apparently failed. All I can assume is that as the climber approached the final 10' or so of the route, s/he moved out right and the anchor shifted accordingly and pulled. Anyone have additional info?

This is a very fun route. A small piece of gear can be used between the last two bolts. I don't know about a recent accident but I recall the rock that you build your anchor in being pretty crufty.

Long ago, before the bolts were replaced a climber fell at the last bolt, it ripped and he died - perhaps this is why it is now referred to as Silent Scream.

On top of this route if you look there is a slot for a good thread for part of an anchor.

A varied climb with good position and moves. I remember the crux as being moving through the start of the bucketed face, a couple of holds there surprised me in their lack of positivity. Top moves are very slabby.I recall watching a group of people top-roping this route using the final bolt as an anchor. I removed 3 slings of different age and condition from this bolt, which suggests that this is not an uncommon practice. If people do TR this climb please remember to go around to the top and set up an anchor. Top-roping from single bolts is not recommended!

Clean, varied technique, slightly artificial.

Sport climbish

An excellent anchor can be created for this climb with a 20' cordellete and approx. 20' of webbing. There's good options up high on the wall behind the climb and off to either side for cams. This reduces the possible pendulumn on your TR. Equalize with cordellete and extend with webbing.

A pretty good route for Indian Cove that's super accesible and fun. A medium cam is useful in the horizontal crack just below the last bolt.

this is a cool route! When I take people to it they look at what appread to be tons of "easy holds"... thinking it will go as easy as a ladder many often figure it cannot be in the 10's. Well those beautiful, somewhat sloping holds get's the lot of them... A MUST do when at Indian Cove... Safey protected on lead, tricky to TR but doable... Is TR's make sure and set it up so the climber will not pendulum...

For me, and other shorter folk, clipping the 3rd bolt is a heady move. The good stance puts me about 6" from the bolt, and the previous bolt is well below your feet at that point. A fall from there would likely put you on the slab below the first bolt. Shorter climbers should consider packing a blue alien for the small horzontal just below the 3rd bolt to ease the mind if nothing else. The route is fantastic and otherwise very well protected.

Sure looks a lot easier than it is!

Did the route today, Oct 29, 2006. There are now 2 drilled baby angles on the very top as an anchor. No idea how they got there, but they look pretty solid and are possibly fortified with epoxy? I backed them up anyway with some large cams over the top of the summit and a long extendo runner. YMMV.
Side note: sun and heat is not your friend on this one.... the grease factor is major and the grade can be anywhere from 5.8+ to hard 5.10 depending on the season

More discussion on the new anchor

Silent Scream was my first 10a lead back in fall of '86. When I went back two weeks later the top bolt was gone and the base of the route was covered in blood. At that time it was listed in Vogel's guide as "silent scream". the original bolts were 1/4 inchers with square nuts. I used the thread and a couple of pieces, which made for a bomber anchor. Interesting that the bolts were only about 4 years old when the top one ripped.

The drilled angles atop this route are now gone.