[Hide Comment] This is a very fun route. A small piece of gear can be used between the last two bolts. I don't know about a recent accident but I recall the rock that you build your anchor in being pretty crufty. Dec 5, 2002

[Hide Comment] Long ago, before the bolts were replaced a climber fell at the last bolt, it ripped and he died - perhaps this is why it is now referred to as Silent Scream.

On top of this route if you look there is a slot for a good thread for part of an anchor. Dec 5, 2002

[Hide Comment] A varied climb with good position and moves. I remember the crux as being moving through the start of the bucketed face, a couple of holds there surprised me in their lack of positivity. Top moves are very slabby.I recall watching a group of people top-roping this route using the final bolt as an anchor. I removed 3 slings of different age and condition from this bolt, which suggests that this is not an uncommon practice. If people do TR this climb please remember to go around to the top and set up an anchor. Top-roping from single bolts is not recommended!

Clean, varied technique, slightly artificial.

Sport climbish Jan 9, 2003

[Hide Comment] An excellent anchor can be created for this climb with a 20' cordellete and approx. 20' of webbing. There's good options up high on the wall behind the climb and off to either side for cams. This reduces the possible pendulumn on your TR. Equalize with cordellete and extend with webbing. Jan 29, 2003

[Hide Comment] A pretty good route for Indian Cove that's super accesible and fun. A medium cam is useful in the horizontal crack just below the last bolt. Nov 11, 2003

[Hide Comment] For me, and other shorter folk, clipping the 3rd bolt is a heady move. The good stance puts me about 6" from the bolt, and the previous bolt is well below your feet at that point. A fall from there would likely put you on the slab below the first bolt. Shorter climbers should consider packing a blue alien for the small horzontal just below the 3rd bolt to ease the mind if nothing else. The route is fantastic and otherwise very well protected. Feb 21, 2006

[Hide Comment] Sure looks a lot easier than it is! Sep 22, 2006

[Hide Comment] Did the route today, Oct 29, 2006. There are now 2 drilled baby angles on the very top as an anchor. No idea how they got there, but they look pretty solid and are possibly fortified with epoxy? I backed them up anyway with some large cams over the top of the summit and a long extendo runner. YMMV.
Side note: sun and heat is not your friend on this one.... the grease factor is major and the grade can be anywhere from 5.8+ to hard 5.10 depending on the season Oct 29, 2006

[Hide Comment] Silent Scream was my first 10a lead back in fall of '86. When I went back two weeks later the top bolt was gone and the base of the route was covered in blood. At that time it was listed in Vogel's guide as "silent scream". the original bolts were 1/4 inchers with square nuts. I used the thread and a couple of pieces, which made for a bomber anchor. Interesting that the bolts were only about 4 years old when the top one ripped. Dec 4, 2006

[Hide Comment] almost died on this route trying it ground up as a sport route, mislead advice and horrifying experienc it was a long time ago tho and convinced me to get into trad Mar 18, 2016

[Hide Comment] I'm an old, broken down, trad climber that has been climbing at Josh since the early 70s. We just did Silent Scream and setup a top rope for the crew on =bomber= placements of a #2, #1, and #.75 cams. They were placed by stepping up in the notch behind the climb. Extended out over the top of the climb it was also very unlikely that they would slide off the top, because they were pretty high up themselves, and we clipped a quickdraw on the routes last bolt for the TR line. Because I'm OCD and had read a comment hear about a TR sliding over and creating a penji situation ("do the pendulum man!") I took the time to put a directional in from the climbers left, because the top of the route slopes just slightly from the climbers left to right. This was totally unnecessary, but was no big deal to add. Now, having said all that, haha, I would not be offended in the least, I would be happy to install, a couple of 3/4" by 7" SS bolts into the back of the topout rock. I mean the route is great for me, as is, and that's always been our way, if you can setup a bomber anchor on top then we don't put in a bolted anchor. But, you know, this is a different era. And, there are not one, but two anchors (that you can see from the ground as a tourist hiker) for the routes to the climbers left. This anchor would not be seen at all. Would allow a rappel. And, would allow the sport climber to do the route, since he neither has nor knows how to setup a trad anchor. But, it's all good. haha Jan 24, 2019

[Hide Comment] Bit of a headache making an anchor on this thing. I certainly wouldn’t care if it had bolts up top.

I will say, the trad anchor probably scares some sport climbers away, which may be a good thing given it’s somewhat runout nature. Feb 4, 2019

[Hide Comment] Curious to hear if the death stories are actually true.

Also if you’re well-verses in trad anchors this is an easy one to build. 1, 2, & 3 are bomber, create masterpoint 1 and extend back over the top, tie a bight for masterpoint 2 on top and you’re TRing all day. I would specifically not use the .75 in the slot as it sounds hollow and flakey.

That said, ridiculous if people are chopping bolt anchors here for a sport route.

If the bolt on Right Ski Track is still there, leave the friggin bolt anchors on this classic and easily-accessed climb. Mar 23, 2020