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The Vestibule
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Psychatomic 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Tommy Caldwell, 1995
Page Views: 8,905
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Jul 22, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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Shaun Reed on Psychatomic.

Description 

Spectacular. This is located just past the third corridor (The Balcony) on the left (southeast) heading into the Vestibule. It runs a line of bolts just right of the arete (formed by meeting between the right side of the Balcony and the Vestibule proper) up a steadily overhanging wall. Reach across from the large boulder and preclip the first bolt then head back down to the deck. Climb past the first bolt (bouldery) and up into the first pumpy crux. Look for rests before tackling the final thin and technical moves.


Protection 

8 bolts to two bolt anchor. Preclip 1st bolt (reach across from boulder).



Photos of Psychatomic Slideshow Add Photo
John on the photogenic Psychatomic.
John on the photogenic Psychatomic.
Ben Randolph be rock climbin'
Ben Randolph be rock climbin'
Psychatomic!
Psychatomic!
Nearing the top.
Nearing the top.
Climbing in Seattle make footwork better.
Climbing in Seattle make footwork better.
About to go for the jug.
About to go for the jug.
Shaun Epperson eyes the first break on Psychatomic.
Shaun Epperson eyes the first break on Psychatomic...
Psychatomic...so good.
Psychatomic...so good.
A perfect Spring day on Psychatomic.
A perfect Spring day on Psychatomic.
Chris Deulen stepping it up on PsychaTomic.
Chris Deulen stepping it up on PsychaTomic.
Shaun staying focused on the last third.
Shaun staying focused on the last third.
Up high on Psychatomic.
Up high on Psychatomic.
Ty Eversaul on Psychatomic.
Ty Eversaul on Psychatomic.
Looking down the Vestibule.
Looking down the Vestibule.
Comments on Psychatomic Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 15, 2012
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 28, 2003

Awesome rock, great texture, and the best moves ever. Couldn't get much better. Mad Props to Mike and Tommy Caldwell for such a great discovery.

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 28, 2004

Broke a hold it the middle of the lower crux.... It was the lower sidepull before the big (kick-out) reach to the crimp out high and left.... It loooked like it had just been stuck on there with some cakey mud.... It looks to me that that entire sidepull section will go in under 2 years.... The part I pulled off made the lower sidepull larger, but since most use the higher one for going up to the crimp out left. I recommend leaving the grade at 12d.... At least for me....

By Buster Jesik
Sep 23, 2007
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Could this be the best 12+ granite sport route in the universe?

By chris deulen
From: Merriam, Kansas
Oct 9, 2007

Yes. This, or Bullet the Blue Sky.

By Dave Pilot
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 15, 2008

Bullet the Blue Sky is an awesome climb, but it's welded tuff rather than granite. So that means Psychatomic IS the best granite sport climb in the universe.

By chris deulen
From: Merriam, Kansas
Mar 3, 2008

I didn't think the monastery was granite...? I've actually been wondering what kind of rock it is for a few years now.

By Dusty
From: Fort Collins
Jun 16, 2008

Love it.

By Dusty
From: Fort Collins
May 15, 2009

If you left your draws on Psychatomic through the 08/09 winter, my friend Ken has pulled them and replaced them with his own. If you would like your manky draws back, send me a message through mp.com.

By Bob Kryzer
From: Minnesota
May 30, 2009

This route is by far the most fun thing I have ever seen on rock!

By doze
From: Denver, CO
Sep 14, 2011

Haven't tried it from the ground, but starting from the boulder was fun and felt only about 5.12-. Nice variation for weak fat people like me.

By tbol
Nov 10, 2011

Chris Deulen

I didn't think the Monastery was granite...? I've actually been wondering what kind of rock it is for a few years now.

The Monastery is a mix of pegmatite (think Black Canyon), nearly granite, and high grade metamorphics (mostly metapelites = schist). This is a very old metamorphic terrane and excellent evidence for continental drift. But the climbing is the cool part!

By Jonathan Siegrist
From: his truck
Aug 9, 2012
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b

First bolt has been sketchy for years. I replaced it. Sweet.

By DVuono
From: Golden, CO
Sep 24, 2012
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b

Saw the new bolt yesterday. Sick. Thanks, Jonathan.

By Brett Merlin
Oct 15, 2012

Last bolt hanger is spinning a bit.