Psychatomic 5.12d
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.12d [details] |
| FA: | Tommy Caldwell, 1995 |
| Submitted By: | Jesse Ryan on Jul 22, 2001 |
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Climbing in Seattle make footwork better.
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Description Spectacular. This is located just past the third corridor (The Balcony) on the left (southeast) heading into the Vestibule. It runs a line of bolts just right of the arete (formed by meeting between the right side of the Balcony and the Vestibule proper) up a steadily overhanging wall. Reach across from the large boulder and preclip the first bolt then head back down to the deck. Climb past the first bolt (bouldery) and up into the first pumpy crux. Look for rests before tackling the final thin and technical moves.
Protection 8 bolts to two bolt anchor. Preclip 1st bolt (reach across from boulder).
Chris Deulen stepping it up on PsychaTomic.
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About to go for the jug.
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Nearing the top.
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Ben Randolph be rock climbin'
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John on the photogenic Psychatomic.
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Up high on Psychatomic.
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Looking down the Vestibule.
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Psychatomic...so good.
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Psychatomic!
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Shaun Epperson eyes the first break on Psychatomic...
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Shaun staying focused on the last third.
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A perfect Spring day on Psychatomic.
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Ty Eversaul on Psychatomic.
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By Anonymous Coward
Jan 28, 2003
| Awesome rock, great texture, and the best moves ever. Couldn't get much better. Mad Props to Mike and Tommy Caldwell for such a great discovery. |
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 28, 2004
| Broke a hold it the middle of the lower crux.... It was the lower sidepull before the big (kick-out) reach to the crimp out high and left.... It loooked like it had just been stuck on there with some cakey mud.... It looks to me that that entire sidepull section will go in under 2 years.... The part I pulled off made the lower sidepull larger, but since most use the higher one for going up to the crimp out left. I recommend leaving the grade at 12d.... At least for me.... |
By Buster Jesik
From: CO
Sep 23, 2007
rating: 5.12d
| Could this be the best 12+ granite sport route in the universe? |
By chris deulen
Oct 9, 2007
| Yes. This, or Bullet the Blue Sky. |
By Dave Pilot
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 15, 2008
| Bullet the Blue Sky is an awesome climb, but it's welded tuff rather than granite. So that means Psychatomic IS the best granite sport climb in the universe. |
By chris deulen
Mar 3, 2008
| I didn't think the monastery was granite...? I've actually been wondering what kind of rock it is for a few years now. |
By Dusty
From: Fort Collins
Jun 16, 2008
| Love it. |
By Dusty
From: Fort Collins
May 15, 2009
| If you left your draws on Psychatomic through the 08/09 winter, my friend Ken has pulled them and replaced them with his own. If you would like your manky draws back, send me a message through mp.com. |
By Bob Kryzer
From: Minnesota
May 30, 2009
| This route is by far the most fun thing I have ever seen on rock! |
By doze
From: Denver, CO
Sep 14, 2011
| Haven't tried it from the ground, but starting from the boulder was fun and felt only about 5.12-. Nice variation for weak fat people like me. |
By tbol
Nov 10, 2011
| Chris Deulen
I didn't think the Monastery was granite...? I've actually been wondering what kind of rock it is for a few years now.
The Monastery is a mix of pegmatite (think Black Canyon), nearly granite, and high grade metamorphics (mostly metapelites = schist). This is a very old metamorphic terrane and excellent evidence for continental drift. But the climbing is the cool part!
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By Jonathan Siegrist
From: his truck
Aug 9, 2012
rating: 5.12+
| First bolt has been sketchy for years. I replaced it. Sweet. |
By DVuono
From: Golden, CO
Sep 24, 2012
rating: 5.12+
| Saw the new bolt yesterday. Sick. Thanks, Jonathan. |
By Brett Merlin
Oct 15, 2012
| Last bolt hanger is spinning a bit. |
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