Upper East Fork 

This is a pretty new area, and many of these routes have only been climbed a few times. The rock is also pretty soft, so BE CAREFUL. It can and will break. Some of the routes are still a little dirty as well (some will likely always be), so if be prepared for that. Please use the trails as much as possible to keep the grass from getting demolished.

Josh
Thanks for posting this, sometime last spring or summer a topo of the area mysterioously showed up at Stone Age, it showed all the routes but did not give directions at all.

Glad to see this area has "gone public". It's a nice area with climbs in the same style as Las Conchas but maybe taller; great setting and without all the hikers. It also a better place for 5.10+, 5.11 and 5.12 climbers; the 2 main cliffs have enough routes at these grades you don't need to hike in between climbs. Many of the climbs have now seen enough traffic that they are cleaning up nicely.

If you print out Josh's 3 beta photos, it's easy to find your way around:
Overview Map
Monster Wall Topo
Spaghetti Western Topo

Most all of the routes face south so it can get pretty warm here. Spring, fall and summer nights are the best climbing times.

The rock and moves on many of the routes at UEF are best described as tricky. I've climbed here with many different folks and get mixed reviews about sandbagged ratings, tricky moves, sneaky technique and sketchy rock. To some degree I can agree with all of those descriptions. It's gritty and interesting rock and it's best to go into with the expectation of it being tough and perhaps a bit sketchy. But the setting is amazing along the river and you don't hear the roar of motorcycles or jake brakes from trucks and you're not likely to see the local church group TRing on the same four routes all day.

Enjoy the setting and climb lightly. If that jug looks like it could come off, despite the FAs best attempts to clean it, it probably could.

What happened to the Overview map? It seems to be MIA.

The climbing here was fun. The rock is still a little grainy, so expect pebbles to drop off if you are dragging your foot on the wall or trying to use unchalked holds. I did not really find the grades sandbagged, but maybe a little inconsistent, which makes sense, fewer opinions to come to a consensus at this point.

My first day at UEF. Based on some comments on this site and experiences with other sprayed-up new crags I was expecting overrated choss, but boy was I wrong! We found generally high quality rock with interesting and varied features and sustained difficulty. Climbs really well! The setting is idyllic. This will be on my short list of day-trip crags, particularly for afternoons in the warmer months.

Post fire access has changed the approach, which I think is now more aesthetic as you leave the noise of the highway more immediately. After passing through the fence continue North on main trail until you reach a clearing and meadow on your left (west). Follow carins, logs, and bull dozer track west along the southern most drainage of the meadow. The trail will gain the ridgeline that after heading southwest will intersect the old approach trail descending into the canyon. Not sure if it is any longer than before. The climbing area and stream remain unimpacted by the fire. Likely thanks in large part to the fire crews that created this new trail as a fire break.