Mount Gretna offers excellent bouldering inside Governor Dick’s Nature Preserve. Composed of groups of diabase boulders strewn throughout a dense forest, the area can be tricky to navigate without a guide or guidebook but once mastered it takes just minutes to reach the nearest boulders. A great place to train and run bouldering circuits. Fall and spring are the best times to visit. Summer greets you with humidity, deer ticks, flies and dense underbrush.
From the PA Turnpike take Exit 266 (Lebanon/Lancaster) and turn Right after toll booths onto PA 72 (Lebanon Road). Travel approximately 2 miles then turn Right onto Cider Press Road. Continue to Stop sign and turn Right onto Pinch Road. Follow Pinch Road into nature preserve and park at Clarence Schock education center on Right just after State Game Lands sign.
Shamoo is one of the top ten boulder problems of Mt Gretna. It embodies all of what diabase climbing is about: small holds, balance and most importantly technique. Shamoo climbs the striking seam and left arete on the most prominent boulder in the area. Begin easily enough by laybacking up the left arete whilst smearing. Work your way into a position where you will be spanning between the arete and crack with your hands and no feet. Hike the left foot up to nearly nothing, perch for all you ...[more]Browse More Classics in PA
Due to the Governor Dick Preserve being surrounded by State Game Lands, huge herds of deer are frequently seen in the area, where they are protected from hunting. I contracted Lyme disease in 2001 after picking up a deer tick after a day of climbing here. I also know of at least two other people who suffered it that same year or the next, so check yourself after every visit.