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Methow Inspiration Route 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 5 pitches, Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 2,940
Submitted By: armasanea on Jun 17, 2013  with updates from Andrew Davidson

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Description 

Approach by a scabble trail 2.9 miles from the Mazama Turnoff. Route starts at the toe of a buttress near a prominent fir tree. Last pitch is great quality, others-rock was manky but has cleaned up over time.

Location 

Mazama Goat wall

Protection 

Quickdraws, pretty well bolted. 6 rapells, some rapell stations are separate from belay stations


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By rsmb
Aug 27, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Overall, a pretty decent route. I thought it was much better than Prime Rib, much cleaner though a little harder. There were definitely a few more 5.9 moves. The current rappel/station is kind of a cluster. We made it up in 4 pitches with a 70m rope (maybe could have done it in 3 if we had tried?), but it took 5 or 6 raps down due to our being overly cautious.
By Serge Smirnov
Oct 6, 2015

Route starts 48.61942, -120.44643
By Maxgl
From: Seattle, Washington
May 16, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Pitch 5 was very money. I thought the crux of the route was the pulling the 5.9 bulge on pitch 4.

We got down in 3 raps using 3 double 60m rappels from the top of p5.
By Serge Smirnov
Jun 2, 2016

There is a rumor you can get down with a 70... It appears untrue, but not in the way one might think.

P5 is fine with a 70 - the separate rap anchor left of the route allows getting from the top of P5 to the top of P3 in two 35m rappels (the topo is not to scale - that left anchor is closer to the bottom of P5 than to the top).

Where one does need 2 ropes is rappelling P2 - the anchor at the top of P1 has no chains/rings, so from the top of P2 one has to rappel to a set of chains pretty low off the ground.

It would be possible to rap with a 70 by leaving carabiners at the top of P1, but perhaps the idea was to discourage rappelling the route due to its popularity.
By Eli B.
Jun 21, 2016

We rappelled no problem with a single 70 meter rope. Could have done it with a 60 m. Just go straight down from the anchor at the top of the last pitch and you will use, I believe, five, maybe six, rappel stations. Just keep an eye out for the large and bomber anchors, which we encountered at every station. Fun, mellow route, good for a late afternoon climb. Easy to bail off at any point.
By Zachary Winters
From: Mazama, Washington
Jul 5, 2016

A good quality, quick climb. Fans of Prime Rib should be advised that there is a short section (last pitch) that is actually 5.9, with a few moves in that grade that would be best to not fall off. Not to deter anyone, as it is a safe climb, just maybe not a great first 5.9. Very clean rock the whole way. Yes, you can rap with a single 60m, just look for the extra rap stations and tie knots

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