Avg: 2.8 from 319 votes
|Type:||Sport, 1300 ft (394 m), 11 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Bryan Burdo, Scott Johnson|
|Page Views:||75,000 total · 661/month|
|Shared By:||Bobby Hanson on Aug 1, 2012 · Updates|
|Admins:||applewood, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
The Methow Valley Climbers, a chapter of the Washington Climbers Coalition, respectfully asks visiting climbers to NOT camp or sleep in your vehicles anywhere along the paved section of Lost River Road or in the Fun Rock parking lot ... Please use a blue bag when on route and take all of your trash home. We thank you for taking responsibility during your visit to help keep climbers in good relations with the local community. Welcome to the valley and safe climbing.
From the USFS:
When planning your visit to the Methow Valley, please choose an appropriate campsite and use established toilets, or pack it out in areas without toilets. The roadside pullouts below the Goat Wall and Gate Creek are NOT considered sustainable places to camp due to proximity to the Methow River and lack of toilets.
Please see the uploaded map "Camping for Climbers" for campgrounds ($8-12 per night) and low-impact FREE dispersed areas with toilets within a few miles of your favorite crag. Free sites include: Goat Creek and Yellowjacket SnoParks (April-October only), and dispersed sites west of Monument Creek Trailhead.
Although there are 5.9 cruxes on this climb, they are all very short and very well-protected. Overall, the route is extremely generous in its bolting.
Pitch 1: Begin at a small fir tree. Head up easy 5th-class ledges to a large ledge with a bolted anchor next to a large fir. (5.4)
Pitch 2: Steep face to an anchor. (5.8)
Shift the belay to below a left-facing dihedral.
Pitch 3: Up the dihedral. You will pass a rappel anchor. Continue up to the anchor on the ledge with the large blocks. (5.7)
Pitch 4: Climb the face above through three steep cruxes. Juggy pockets just where you want them keep the grade moderate. End in the Notch. (5.9-)
Pitch 5: Climb the straight-forward face above. Belay at a tree. (5.7)
Shift the belay to the large fir by the wall. The top of the gully is here. It is my understanding that you can descend the gully from here. It might be an unpleasant "pinball" experience down the scree. Beware loose rock from above.
Pitch 6: Climb a nicely exposed face with a slight left-to-right traverse. (5.8)
Pitch 7: This pitch begins with a bouldery crux off the ledge. There are a couple more bouldery moves on this fun pitch. (5.9-)
Shift the belay again to below the juggy slab. There is a large fir tree here showing scars from the frequent rockfall at this spot. Beware, especially if there are parties above you here.
Pitch 8: Climb the fun juggy slab to a semi-hanging anchor. (5.8)
Pitch 9: This pitch follows a short, exposed traverse to the right. (5.4)
Pitch 10: Traverse back to the left. You will reach a 2-bolt anchor. It might be preferable to continue up to the beginning of the next pitch and belay off of the first bolt. If you opt to belay off of the 2-bolt anchor, be sure to shift your belay before starting Pitch 11. (Easy 5th-, 4th-, and 3rd class)
Pitch 11: The money pitch. Begin by ascending a short leaning pillar. Stem over to the main wall, and thrutch up a somewhat awkward set of features. Beyond, the awkwardness eases, but the difficulty remains consistent. (5.9)
A more detailed description of the approach and the route itself can be found in Bryan Burdo's guidebook, or by asking at the Goat's Beard climbing shop in Mazama.
You can rappel the route with a single rope. Alternatively, you can park a car (or bike) shuttle on Goat Creek Road, and hike to the top and drive back down.
If opting for the car shuttle, drive up Goat Creek Road; turn left at the Y (hairpin). Follow the road up past 2 (?) cattle guards. At the second cattle guard, the road will begin descending. Park here. The trail should be on the left side of the road, just north of the barbed-wire fence.
To return to your vehicle from the top of Prime Rib, the key idea to keep in mind is that you are north of the barbed-wire fence, and there is a trail that runs all the way along the fence to the top of the wall.
From the top of Pitch 11, continue up 2nd- and 3rd-class ledges until you reach the forest. Continue uphill, aiming to stay on the ridge. If in doubt, go right (south). It is impossible to go too far right. Eventually you will find the fence. Follow it back to the road. Allow 30 minutes.