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Routes in Goat Wall

Flyboys S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goats Beard Ice WI5
Methow Inspiration Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Prime Rib of Goat S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Promised Land T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A1
Restless Natives S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sisyphus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Ice, 1000 ft, 6 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 630 total, 62/month
Shared By: Shaun Johnson on Jan 17, 2017
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

Elusive, coveted and magnificent.

An all time classic ice climb not to be taken lightly.

Overhead risk is unavoidable and the route is completely exposed to the southern sky.

Full detailed write up here:
https://waynewallace.wordpress.com/2013/01/16/goats-beard-ice/

Protection

A full rack of ice screws and cord for V threads.

Photos

wayne wallace
Seattle
 
wayne wallace   Seattle
 
Super obvious from the road. 20-30 min approach. We did the route in 6 LONG pitches, 6 hours car to car. We found the first crux to be a long wi5 (p2). the other cruxes were the section through the roofs( a clever, thin corner in the middle of giant roofs, p5). The last pitch was an endurance pillar that took my last shred of energy, p6. The ice was greatly varied in type and consistency, adding yet another element to the intense experience. The route is never super difficult, but the position/exposure to icefall is always on your mind. It probably came in during the '16/17 winter too briefly. Mar 22, 2017
Kyle Elliott
Everett, WA
Kyle Elliott   Everett, WA
If I'm not mistaken, this actually roughly follows the Restless Natives line. Sisyphus is further to the right. Jan 25, 2017
I believe this follows the approximate line of Sisyphus.

Shaun's comment about overhead risk is probably the most important detail here. The line is plainly visible from the River Run trail on the Mazama Nordic ski trail system. From there, I've seen big stuff fall off of it on cold but sunny days. Would-be suitors should plan accordingly, and also be aware that the valley does often see temperature inversions. Jan 20, 2017
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
It's great that you posted this info Shaun, but it needs to have some more info.

The link is fantastic, but may not always be there. And it shouldn't be required to go elsewhere for info. Could add some info on how to get to the base and what to bring?

Thanks - Jan 17, 2017