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Routes in Goat Wall
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Born in Time S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Claymore (aka Czech Gully) T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI2-3 M3-4 Steep Snow |
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Flyboys S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Goat's Beard Ice WI5 |
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Mazama Queen T WI3 M6 Steep Snow PG13 |
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Methow Inspiration Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Prime Rib S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Promised Land T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A1 |
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Restless Natives S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sisyphus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Standard, The WI3-4 |
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Where the Buffalo Roam S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
| Type: | Sport, 1000 ft (303 m), 10 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Larry Goldie and Scott Johnston |
| Page Views: | 22,152 total · 133/month |
| Shared By: | Skyeler Congdon on Jun 28, 2011 · Updates |
| Admins: | applewood, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Access Issue: Camping for Climbers in Mazama
Details
The Methow Valley Climbers, a chapter of the Washington Climbers Coalition, respectfully asks visiting climbers to NOT camp or sleep in your vehicles anywhere along the paved section of Lost River Road or in the Fun Rock parking lot ... Please use a blue bag when on route and take all of your trash home. We thank you for taking responsibility during your visit to help keep climbers in good relations with the local community. Welcome to the valley and safe climbing.
From the USFS:
When planning your visit to the Methow Valley, please choose an appropriate campsite and use established toilets, or pack it out in areas without toilets. The roadside pullouts below the Goat Wall and Gate Creek are NOT considered sustainable places to camp due to proximity to the Methow River and lack of toilets.
Please see the uploaded map "Camping for Climbers" for campgrounds ($8-12 per night) and low-impact FREE dispersed areas with toilets within a few miles of your favorite crag. Free sites include: Goat Creek and Yellowjacket SnoParks (April-October only), and dispersed sites west of Monument Creek Trailhead.
Description
An enjoyable day with some great pitches on clean rock and a couple throw away pitches on decent rock. Expect Afternoon sun.
1: 5.7; 6 bolts; 100 ft
2: 5.9; 7 bolts; 100 ft (Easily linked with P1 with a 60)
3: 5.10b; unprotected 4th ramp out right, 10 bolts. 150 ft. Awesome.
4: Easy 5th. Pass a set of chains on the left; 2 bolt; 140 ft.
5: 5.8; 7 bolts; 100 ft
6: 5.11a; 8 bolts. Very thin, well protected crux. 80 ft.
7: 5.10a; 12 bolts; 160 ft.
8: 3rd class ledges.
9: 5.9; 10 bolts; 100 ft
10: 5.6; 7 bolts; 100 ft (link w/9).
Many parties will opt to descend after the 7th pitch as quality deteriorates.
Descent:
From top of P7, you can rap with a single 60m rope (10 rappels) by using each rappel anchor...
- R1: Short rappel ~15m to intermediate anchor in middle of P7
- R2: Rappel remaining ~25m of P7
- R3: Rappel P6 (~24m)
- R4: Rappel P5 (30m, just at rope end)
- R5: Short rappel ~10m to intermediate anchor on P4 (just like two ledges down)
- R6: Rappel remaining ~26m of P4
- R7: Rappel straight down ~25m (don't try to follow the traversing P3). You should find the next bolted anchor by simply continuing straight down, it's on a ledge.
- R8: Rappel remaining ~25m to the scramble section at the start of P3.
- Walk the remaining ~10m to the top of P2
- R9: Rappel P2 (~29m)
- R10: Rappel P1 (~28m)
***Raptors nest on the Diamond point buttress above. May-July. If you top at the treed ledge, please do not continue higher, and do not talk, walk around, or attempt to walk off during this Spring nesting season; leave as soon as possible.
According to a biologist "If the raptor notices you, and changes their behavior in any way, please start your descent"
Thanks! MVClimbers
Location
Once close to the wall, look for a giant, solitary pine tree, go left up a climbers trail around the toe of a buttress, then back right up a ledgy ramp.
Photos
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