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Routes in Goat Wall

Flyboys S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goats Beard Ice WI5
Methow Inspiration Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Prime Rib of Goat S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Promised Land T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A1
Restless Natives S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sisyphus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 1000 ft, 10 pitches, Grade III
FA: Larry Goldie and Scott Johnston
Page Views: 8,520 total, 109/month
Shared By: Skyeler Congdon on Jun 28, 2011
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

An enjoyable day with some great pitches on clean rock and a couple throw away pitches on decent rock.

1: 5.7; 6 bolts; 100 ft
2: 5.9; 7 bolts; 100 ft (Easily linked with P1 with a 60)
3: 5.10b; unprotected 4th ramp out right, 10 bolts. 150 ft. Awesome.
4: Easy 5th. Pass a set of chains on the left; 2 bolt; 140 ft.
5: 5.8; 7 bolts; 100 ft
6: 5.11a; 8 bolts. Very thin, well protected crux. 80 ft.
7: 5.10a; 12 bolts; 160 ft.
8: 3rd class ledges.
9: 5.9; 10 bolts; 100 ft
10: 5.6; 7 bolts; 100 ft (link w/9).

Many parties will opt to descend after the 7th pitch as quality deteriorates.

Location

The right (south) side of Goat Wall. Park at the BIG pullout 3 miles past the Mazama Store. Look for a trail just right of the yellow "curved road" sign. Do NOT approach from the Prime Rib trail (thats what we did and it sucked). A 20 minute approach.

Once close to the wall, look for a giant, solitary pine tree, go left up a climbers trail around the toe of a buttress, then back right up a ledgy ramp. Look for a fixed line: this is the key feature for finding the start.

Protection

A baker's dozen of draws will do it if trying to link the first two pitches. Bringing extendable draws is advised in dealing with rope drag.
oretro
  5.11a
oretro  
  5.11a
While on the 10b/c exposed pitch, look for the tree on climber's left. This will have rap chains that should use to get down with one 70m rope. Jul 7, 2016
hummerchine
  5.11a
hummerchine  
  5.11a
Climbed it two days ago with John Plotz. We rocked it...about 5 hours base to base. Better than I expected...quite tricky yet delightful climbing. The grades seem pretty right on too...I'd probably rate the third (money) pitch 5.10c but close enough. The 5.11a crux was short but had great pro on perfect rock. Really really fun...gorgeous up there too!

We had high winds which were borderline annoying yet made the temps ideal. Combined some pitches so 7 pitches up, 12 raps down with a 70m rope. One of the raps barely made it...watch your ends! Jul 5, 2016
P7 is not much more than 120' - our 70m just reached on rappel (I mean the entire pitch - without using the intermediate anchor 3/4 of the way up the pitch). Jun 2, 2016
Route starts 48.621, -120.4471.

Start of P3 has a very exposed move protectable by a 3-3.5" cam (people have also used rocks wedged in the crack as stoppers). One would, of course, back-clean it after clipping the first bolt. Oct 6, 2015
Drew Peterson
  5.11a
Drew Peterson  
  5.11a
As of the date of this post, the fixed line is no longer in place, so do not rely on it to find the start of the route. For a general idea of where the first 5.7 pitch is, keep an eye out for a wide crack that leads up to the left of a 15' white patch. The bolt line is just the the left of the crack, and eventually enters the crack.

The climbing up to the base is 4th class and is easily scrambled, just beware of loose blocks. Fun alpine sport climb with thoughtful climbing. Apr 24, 2015
Chris Mutzel
Seattle, Washington
Chris Mutzel   Seattle, Washington
Even though it is bolted, this *is* an alpine climb. There is a lot of loose rock at each belay/rappel station. Know how to manage your rope and yourself so you are not knocking off rocks on the parties below.

That being said, pitch 3 might be my favorite 150ft of "alpine sport climbing" anywhere. Super protected 5.10 fun with great exposure. The 11 pitch didn't look too bad, but we bailed due to rock fall. Will do it again when there are fewer parties on the route, probably mid-week. May 28, 2014
Goran Lynch
Oakland, CA
Goran Lynch   Oakland, CA
Fun route, and extraordinarily well thought out in terms of bolt positions, anchor locations, etc. Kudos to the FA!

With a 70 and enough draws, you can link pitches 1&2, 4&5, 7&8, 9&10. I think 17 draws is about right (+ whatever you use to anchor).

Rapping with a single was as painless as ~11 raps can be. We stopped at every bolted station we came to, and never needed to even look at the topo. Top to bottom in less than an hour. No need to bother with doubles; they'd add rigmarole and wouldn't really speed things up.

Finally, I saw a rock scar at the beginning of p7 and didn't find anything unstable there. I think the belayer-slayer block is happily gone! Oct 27, 2013
jdberndt
Seattle, WA
jdberndt   Seattle, WA
Very unstable block directly over the hanging belay at the top of the crux pitch (p7). Do NOT use for hands or feet or you will likely injure your belayer. Adds to difficulty of pitch by at least a couple of letter grades IMHO. Jul 3, 2013