Type: Sport, 1000 ft, 10 pitches, Grade III
FA: Larry Goldie and Scott Johnston
Page Views: 12,248 total · 126/month
Shared By: Skyeler Congdon on Jun 28, 2011 with improvements by Yiddar S
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

An enjoyable day with some great pitches on clean rock and a couple throw away pitches on decent rock.

1: 5.7; 6 bolts; 100 ft
2: 5.9; 7 bolts; 100 ft (Easily linked with P1 with a 60)
3: 5.10b; unprotected 4th ramp out right, 10 bolts. 150 ft. Awesome.
4: Easy 5th. Pass a set of chains on the left; 2 bolt; 140 ft.
5: 5.8; 7 bolts; 100 ft
6: 5.11a; 8 bolts. Very thin, well protected crux. 80 ft.
7: 5.10a; 12 bolts; 160 ft.
8: 3rd class ledges.
9: 5.9; 10 bolts; 100 ft
10: 5.6; 7 bolts; 100 ft (link w/9).

Many parties will opt to descend after the 7th pitch as quality deteriorates.

Location

The right (south) side of Goat Wall. Park at the BIG pullout 3 miles past the Mazama Store. Look for a trail just right of the yellow "curved road" sign. Do NOT approach from the Prime Rib trail (thats what we did and it sucked). A 20 minute approach.

Once close to the wall, look for a giant, solitary pine tree, go left up a climbers trail around the toe of a buttress, then back right up a ledgy ramp.

Protection

A baker's dozen of draws will do it if trying to link the first two pitches. Bringing extendable draws is advised in dealing with rope drag.

Photos