Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Goat Wall

Flyboys S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goats Beard Ice WI5
Methow Inspiration Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Prime Rib of Goat S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Promised Land T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A1
Restless Natives S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sisyphus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,374 total · 108/month
Shared By: armasanea on Jun 17, 2013 with updates
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


46 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Approach by a scabble trail 2.9 miles from the Mazama Turnoff. Route starts at the toe of a buttress near a prominent fir tree. Last pitch is great quality, others-rock was manky but has cleaned up over time.

Location

Mazama Goat wall

Protection

Quickdraws, pretty well bolted. 6 rapells, some rapell stations are separate from belay stations

Photos

rsmb
  5.9
rsmb  
  5.9
Overall, a pretty decent route. I thought it was much better than Prime Rib, much cleaner though a little harder. There were definitely a few more 5.9 moves. The current rappel/station is kind of a cluster. We made it up in 4 pitches with a 70m rope (maybe could have done it in 3 if we had tried?), but it took 5 or 6 raps down due to our being overly cautious. Aug 27, 2013
Route starts 48.61942, -120.44643 Oct 6, 2015
Max Leitner
Seattle, Washington
  5.9+
Max Leitner   Seattle, Washington
  5.9+
Pitch 5 was very money. I thought the crux of the route was the pulling the 5.9 bulge on pitch 4.

We got down in 3 raps using 3 double 60m rappels from the top of p5. May 16, 2016
There is a rumor you can get down with a 70... It appears untrue, but not in the way one might think.

P5 is fine with a 70 - the separate rap anchor left of the route allows getting from the top of P5 to the top of P3 in two 35m rappels (the topo is not to scale - that left anchor is closer to the bottom of P5 than to the top).

Where one does need 2 ropes is rappelling P2 - the anchor at the top of P1 has no chains/rings, so from the top of P2 one has to rappel to a set of chains pretty low off the ground.

It would be possible to rap with a 70 by leaving carabiners at the top of P1, but perhaps the idea was to discourage rappelling the route due to its popularity. Jun 2, 2016
Eli B.
 
Eli B.  
 
We rappelled no problem with a single 70 meter rope. Could have done it with a 60 m. Just go straight down from the anchor at the top of the last pitch and you will use, I believe, five, maybe six, rappel stations. Just keep an eye out for the large and bomber anchors, which we encountered at every station. Fun, mellow route, good for a late afternoon climb. Easy to bail off at any point. Jun 21, 2016
Z Winters
Mazama, Washington
Z Winters   Mazama, Washington
A good quality, quick climb. Fans of Prime Rib should be advised that there is a short section (last pitch) that is actually 5.9, with a few moves in that grade that would be best to not fall off. Not to deter anyone, as it is a safe climb, just maybe not a great first 5.9. Very clean rock the whole way. Yes, you can rap with a single 60m, just look for the extra rap stations and tie knots Jul 5, 2016
Nick Sweeney
Spokane, WA
  5.9+ R
Nick Sweeney   Spokane, WA
  5.9+ R
This is a big step up from Prime Rib - bring your A game for this one! My partners had to battle with the roof on P4 - their beta required 5.10 climbing. On top rope, I used different beta that kept the grade at 5.9. We easily descended in three raps with two 60m ropes. The first rappel required a few moves of moderate downclimbing. Full trip report on Spokalpine.com May 22, 2017
Diana Y
  5.9
Diana Y  
  5.9
Agree with the route start coordinates posted by someone else. Trail is easy to find and follow from the road. Much more stable than trail to Prime Rib.

Somehow we ended up with 7 pitches. We split P2 in half by accident. I think the idea is to belay at the hangers w/o chains when available.

Hardest move is the crux on P4. P5 is a sustained lead that is quite fun. The rest of the route is probably 5.6-5.7.

We made six raps on a 60m, stopping only at the stations with chains. Another party had a 70 and was able to get from the top of P4 to the top of P3, just barely.

This was a fun, short, and enjoyable route. Aug 13, 2017
Nathan Stegenga
Spokane, WA
 
Nathan Stegenga   Spokane, WA
 
P1 - Climb up and left of the large detached block, run it out above 3rd bolt for 20 feet on 5.6-7 slab. Ignore first anchor (it's a rappel station) and climb up the face to the big flake feature and over small bulge (5.8+) to anchor.
P2 - 5.6 slab. Aim for the prominent "saddle" up and left. Ignore rappel station on your left.
P3 - Short steep face, 5.7. Walk up the huge ledge past dead tree on left to comfy belay station.
P4 - Slab up to the roof. Pull roof (5.9+) on awkward lieback jug to reachy crimps, and then jugs to finish. Not awful, but it could be hard for your belayer to keep you from smacking your ankles if you fall off at the crux. Fun face climbing through an exfoliated (but solid) face and quickly arrive at belay.
P5 - Money pitch. Full 50M of sustained 5.8-5.9 face. Certainly run out in some places - so be careful if you're leading at your limit. After about 25M, you will pass a rappel anchor w/ chains on your left, and about 10M above that is an alternate belay anchor w/o chains and a 2 bolt line to reconnect you to the main climb. Looks like it's a workaround for the 5.9+ bulge. The crux bulge involves some tough crimps and sort of blind (but solid) feet. Finish about 20 feet above crux.

DESCENT: With a single 70M we were able to get down in 6 rappels (could be done in 7 with a 60M). ** Be very careful about sending loose rock down on the rappel, especially the upper raps. While the route is on good rock, the rappel line can send you through some loose, broken sections. Rock we accidentally sent off was ricocheting 30+ yards out over the climb towards the approach trail. If you see parties rapping the route while on approach, throw your helmet on and keep an eye out**

From the top of P5, rappel to the intermediate rappel anchors (with chains) on your left. You cannot make it to the P4 anchor with a single rope. From the intermediate rap anchor, a 70M will get you to the top of P3 (huge comfy ledge w/ dead tree), but it's a full 35 meter rappel, so if you're on a single 60, you will need to stop at the P4 anchors instead (above first 5.9+ roof). From the P3 ledge, make short rappel to P2 anchors in "saddle". From here, rap to the intermediate rappel anchors on climber's left. Rap down past the P1 anchors (single rope will not get you down from top of P1) to the rap anchor below the 5.8+ crux bulge on P1. Rap to the dirt.

Here's a slightly updated topo of the route fromwinthropmountainsports.com/… that shows the intermediate rap anchors

mountainproject.com/v/11350… Aug 25, 2017

More About Methow Inspiration Route

Printer-Friendly