Type: Sport, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 8,751 total · 128/month
Shared By: armasanea on Jun 17, 2013 with updates from Andrew Davidson
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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54 Opinions

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Approach by a scabble trail 2.9 miles from the Mazama Turnoff. Route starts at the toe of a buttress near a prominent fir tree. Last pitch is great quality, others-rock was manky but has cleaned up over time.


Mazama Goat wall


Quickdraws, pretty well bolted. 6 rapells, some rapell stations are separate from belay stations


Overall, a pretty decent route. I thought it was much better than Prime Rib, much cleaner though a little harder. There were definitely a few more 5.9 moves. The current rappel/station is kind of a cluster. We made it up in 4 pitches with a 70m rope (maybe could have done it in 3 if we had tried?), but it took 5 or 6 raps down due to our being overly cautious. Aug 27, 2013
Serge Smirnov
Seattle, WA
Serge Smirnov   Seattle, WA
Route starts 48.61942, -120.44643 Oct 6, 2015
Max Leitner
Seattle, Washington
Max Leitner   Seattle, Washington
Pitch 5 was very money. I thought the crux of the route was the pulling the 5.9 bulge on pitch 4.

We got down in 3 raps using 3 double 60m rappels from the top of p5. May 16, 2016
Serge Smirnov
Seattle, WA
Serge Smirnov   Seattle, WA
There is a rumor you can get down with a 70... It appears untrue, but not in the way one might think.

P5 is fine with a 70 - the separate rap anchor left of the route allows getting from the top of P5 to the top of P3 in two 35m rappels (the topo is not to scale - that left anchor is closer to the bottom of P5 than to the top).

Where one does need 2 ropes is rappelling P2 - the anchor at the top of P1 has no chains/rings, so from the top of P2 one has to rappel to a set of chains pretty low off the ground.

It would be possible to rap with a 70 by leaving carabiners at the top of P1, but perhaps the idea was to discourage rappelling the route due to its popularity. Jun 2, 2016
Eli B.
Eli B.  
We rappelled no problem with a single 70 meter rope. Could have done it with a 60 m. Just go straight down from the anchor at the top of the last pitch and you will use, I believe, five, maybe six, rappel stations. Just keep an eye out for the large and bomber anchors, which we encountered at every station. Fun, mellow route, good for a late afternoon climb. Easy to bail off at any point. Jun 21, 2016
Z Winters
Mazama, WA
Z Winters   Mazama, WA
A good quality, quick climb. Fans of Prime Rib should be advised that there is a short section (last pitch) that is actually 5.9, with a few moves in that grade that would be best to not fall off. Not to deter anyone, as it is a safe climb, just maybe not a great first 5.9. Very clean rock the whole way. Yes, you can rap with a single 60m, just look for the extra rap stations and tie knots Jul 5, 2016
Nick Sweeney
Spokane, WA
  5.9+ R
Nick Sweeney   Spokane, WA
  5.9+ R
This is a big step up from Prime Rib - bring your A game for this one! My partners had to battle with the roof on P4 - their beta required 5.10 climbing. On top rope, I used different beta that kept the grade at 5.9. We easily descended in three raps with two 60m ropes. The first rappel required a few moves of moderate downclimbing. Full trip report on Spokalpine.com May 22, 2017
Diana Y
Diana Y  
Agree with the route start coordinates posted by someone else. Trail is easy to find and follow from the road. Much more stable than trail to Prime Rib.

Somehow we ended up with 7 pitches. We split P2 in half by accident. I think the idea is to belay at the hangers w/o chains when available.

Hardest move is the crux on P4. P5 is a sustained lead that is quite fun. The rest of the route is probably 5.6-5.7.

We made six raps on a 60m, stopping only at the stations with chains. Another party had a 70 and was able to get from the top of P4 to the top of P3, just barely.

This was a fun, short, and enjoyable route. Aug 13, 2017
Pitches 1, 2 and especially 5 are all lots of fun. Route and raps go pretty quickly. Aug 11, 2018
We climbed this on 9/2/2018 and the route was in good condition (all bolts looked good; no broken holds). We heard some rockfall from the route to climbers' left (Sisyphus?). Here's some info on how to get to the start, as that was the hardest part for us. Everyone else's beta here is correct, so this is just more detail.

Drive 2.9 miles from the Mazama Store on Lost River Rd. Look for the yellow road sign with the curvy arrow and the 45 MPH limit. Park in a pullout on the left across from that sign. The trail starts at that yellow sign- it is hard to see from the road, but gets clearer just a little uphill. A couple minutes up the trail there is a wooden kiosk trail register. The trail register is visible from the road but a bit hard to see because it's in the trees. The beginning of the trail is a proper trail but pretty soon it becomes a scree field. We took about 1 hour on the approach (going slow as one of us is recovering from an ankle injury so scree hiking is rough; I think a fast party could do it in 30 min). Paul's photo of the approach was helpful in identifying where to start. There is a belay bolt at the start but it took us a while to find it- the bolts are pretty well camouflaged.

Pitches 1 and 5 have some runouts (that was my impression following those pitches anyway). If you are leading at your limit at 5.9, it will be a bit scary. I led pitch 2 and found it easy climbing but challenging to spot the next bolt because it wanders a bit. I got confused and strung it together with pitch 3, which I don't recommend due to severe rope drag. Sep 15, 2018