Type: Sport, 1800 ft (545 m), 18 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Bryan Burdo, Jerry Daniels
Page Views: 148,172 total · 1,816/month
Shared By: Elias Jordan on Nov 7, 2017 · Updates
Admins: applewood, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters

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Warning Access Issue: Camping for Climbers in Mazama DetailsDrop down

Approach Suggest change

Park at the Swimming-hole pullout, 3.1 miles from the Mazama Store**.  Walk back (East) on the road for 200 feet and cross to find a well-defined trail heading up into the trees. If you've reached the Sisyphus pull-out, you've gone too far.

Follow the trail up through the forest and into a boulder field, eventually leading to talus. Find your way through the talus on the (as of Fall 2023) well-defined path trending LEFT towards the wall (Right will bring you to Restless Natives). Follow the talus up a gully with cairns leading you to the base of route near a large dead tree. Allow 20-45 minutes.

**From the Methow Valley Climbers group, "Please do not car camp at this parking. Human waste is becoming an issue and climbers are getting a well deserved bad press with the locals using the swimming area (camp at Yellow Jacket down the road)."

Contributed from user JJ W W:

GPS Coordinates for the start of the climb: 48.623704,-120.450665

Car Shuttle: 48.625722, -120.438139

Parking for Approach: 48.622325, -120.454698

Description Suggest change

  1. 5.9, 9 bolts. Start in a right facing corner, 40 feet to the Right of a large dead tree. 1st bolt is near head height. Thin face crux up high.
  2. 5.6, 8 bolts. Easy ramp to 15-foot block, mantle onto slab and continue to chains.
  3. 5.8, 10 bolts. Steep face to ledges, ending at an exposed belay.
  4. 5.9, 11 bolts. Traverse left into intricate face moves followed by sustained face climbing.
  5. Low 5th Class, 5 bolts. Extend 3rd bolt with a runner to avoid rope drag. Continue past rappel anchor to base of pitch 6.
  6. 5.8, 9 bolts. Tricky bulge leads to excellent arête climbing. Walk 40m south to base of wall to start next pitch.
  7. 5.9, 8 bolts. Stemming corner leads to steep and wild face moves into a crack.
  8. 5.8, 16 bolts. Sustained enjoyable climbing leads to a large ledge. Follow Cairns for 50m South to start of the next pitch.
  9. 5.9, 15 bolts. "Perfect pocket pitch", Scramble up and to the right of flag tree for next pitch.
  10. 5.9, 10 bolts. Over-hanging jugs in broken flakes lead to an exposed belay.
  11. 5.7, 14 bolts. Diagonal face leads to a clean slab. Walk past trees to south 50 yards to start of pitch 12.
  12. 5.7, 9 bolts. Sustained moderate climbing through corners and overlaps.
  13. 5.8, 14 bolts. Continue climbing through corners and overlaps.
  14. 5.9, 9 bolts. Stay left on arête to short-face followed by traversing flake into a squeeze chimney.
  15. 5.4, 6 bolts. Follow bolts through easy slab trending left to a stance above a gully.
  16. 5.8, 7 bolts. Step across the abyss to exposed arête and jug ladder. After second arrives, scramble 3rd class past a lone pine tree to start of 17.
  17. 5.7, 10 bolts. Boulder start leads to step face trending right.
  18. 5.9, 10 bolts. 3 consecutive 5.9+ bouldery problems lead to the exposed finish.

Descent Suggest change

Two options are available.

Option One: Walk to the top of the Goat wall and then towards Goat Creek Rd. 10miles of dirt & paved road will take you back to the Trailhead. *Pre-arrange a car/bike shuttle*.

Option Two: Rappel the route via a rappel route adjacent to Flyboys. Rappel stations have three bolts, two with chains. These are not to be confused with the climbing anchors which are three bolts, sans-chains. 18 rappels to the ground. A 70 m rope is recommended for the rappels versus trying to make a 60m work and depending on rope stretch - BE SURE TO TIE KNOTS IN THE ENDS OF YOUR ROPE. Be very aware of loose rock on the rappel line and parties below. Given the nature of this climb and that the alpine environment experiences extreme temperature ranges, rock fracturing and loose rock is to be expected.

Photos

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