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Routes in Goat Wall

Flyboys S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goats Beard Ice WI5
Methow Inspiration Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Prime Rib of Goat S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Promised Land T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A1
Restless Natives S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sisyphus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 1800 ft, 18 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Bryan Burdo, Jerry Daniels
Page Views: 22,958 total · 2,677/month
Shared By: Elias Jordan on Nov 7, 2017 with updates from Jerry Daniels
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Approach [Suggest Change]

Park at the Swimming-hole pullout, 3.1 miles from the Mazama Store. Walk back (East) on the road for 200 feet and cross to find a well-defined trail heading up into the trees. If you've reached the Sisyphus pull-out you've gone too far.

Follow trail up through the forest and into a boulder field, eventually leading to talus. find your way through the talus on the currently (Summer 17') well-defined path trending LEFT towards the wall (Right will bring you to Restless Natives). Follow the talus up a gully with Cairns leading you to the base of route near a large dead Tree. Allow 20-45min

Description [Suggest Change]

1) 5.9, 9 bolts. Start in a right facing corner, 40 feet to the Right of a large dead tree. 1st bolt is near head hight. Thin face crux up high.

2) 5.6, 8 bolts. Easy ramp to 15-foot block, mantle onto slab and continue to chains

3) 5.8, 10 bolts. Steep face to ledges, ending at an exposed belay.

4) 5.9, 11 bolts. Traverse left into intricate face moves followed by sustained face climbing.

5) Low 5th Class, 5 bolts. "When second arrives move belay 4 feet towards gully. Extend 3rd bolt with a runner to avoid rope drag. Continue past rappel anchor to base of pitch 6"

6) 5.8, 9 bolts. Tricky bulge leads to excellent arête climbing. Walk 40m south to base of wall to start next pitch

7) 5.9, 8 bolts. Stemming corner leads to steep and wild face moves into a crack.

8) 5.8, 16 bolts. Sustained enjoyable climbing leads to a large ledge. Follow Cairns for 50m South to start of the next pitch.

9) 5.9, 15 bolts. "Perfect pocket pitch", Scramble up and to the right of flag tree for next pitch.

10) 5.9, 10 bolts. Over-hanging jugs in broken flakes lead to an exposed belay.

11) 5.7, 14 bolts. Diagonal face leads to a clean slab. Walk past trees to south 50 yards to start of pitch 12.

12) 5.7, 9 bolts. Sustained moderate climbing through corners and overlaps.

13) 5.8, 14 bolts. Continue climbing through corners and overlaps.

14) 5.9, 9 bolts. Stay left on arête to short-face followed by traversing flake into a squeeze chimney.

15) 5.4, 6 bolts. Follow bolts through easy slab trending left to a stance above a gully.

16) 5.8, 7 bolts. Step across the abyss to exposed arête and jug ladder. Scramble 3rd class past lone pine tree to start of 17.

17) 5.7, 10 bolts. Boulder start leads to step face trending right.

18) 5.9, 10 bolts. 3 consecutive 5.9+ bouldery problems lead to the exposed finish.

Descent [Suggest Change]

Two options are available.

One: Walk off the Goat wall back to Goat Creek Rd. Best done with a Car or Bike Shuttle.

Two: Rappel the route via a rappel route adjacent to Flyboys. Rappel stations have three bolts, two with chains. These are not to be confused with the climbing anchors which are three bolts, sans-chains. 18 rappels to the ground. A 60m rope will suffice, however, rope stretching - BE SURE TO TIE KNOTS IN THE ENDS OF YOUR ROPE. Be aware of loose rock and parties below, this is the Goat wall, and this is a new route.
Kyle Elliott
Everett, WA
 
Kyle Elliott   Everett, WA
 
The trail as of 4/13/18 is not well defined once it reaches the boulders. follow trail up through the trees after passing a informational/warning sign until the boulder field.

As soon as it looks like you are too almost too close to restless natives, there is a fork branching leftward to flyboys. (FYI if you leave the trail leftward too early, you will be scrambling/hopping on sharp, teetering boulders) . the trail will traverse the base of the wall, passing a couple of cliff bands, then up around the left side of a clean overhanging wall with several fixed lines, up a gully, and up and right to the start of the route. Apr 17, 2018
There is tonnnns of snow at the top of Flyboys during late April. Or at least there was when my friend and I went. Make sure to prepare descent, its unclear where or how to get down by walking. It is also quite far 8-11 miles (according to information from maps and a lady at the outdoor store). AWESOME climb though, tons of variety for style, super protected. Apr 25, 2018
Elias Jordan
Mazama, WA
 
Elias Jordan   Mazama, WA
 
When the Goat Creek Road is open (usually May - November) one can drive about 10mi from the Mazama Store up the road to the top of the Goat Wall. The hike from the top of Flyboys to the road is about 10min straight North. NOTE: This is no "walk-off" - unless your idea off a walk-off is 10miles of road hiking - it is a way to run a shuttle*. See photos for a map.

*Best done with bikes (rentals available at the Goat's Beard in Mazama, or Methow Cycle and Sport in Winthrop). Apr 26, 2018
Elliott Schwartz  
  5.9+
I did this with a friend on May 5, 2018. We got to a pull out on the road at 7:00 after driving back and forth down the road a few times to check for obvious trails. We saw one trail, North of the pull out, not South like the description suggests. We figured that we must have been confused, so we started up that trail at 7:30. That trail went too far North to Goat Creek. We followed the rock faces heading South until we saw bolts for what must be Prime Rib. After that, it took a few more minutes of walking to find Flyboys. The approach hike took about 70 minutes including getting lost and following a few not-actually-trails into dead ends.

Lessons: If near Goat Creek, you're too far North. The large dead tree is an *erect* dead tree, not tipped-over.

We got to the base of the wall around 8:40 AM; started climbing by 9 AM. First few pitches were all fine. Directions on this page are pretty accurate as far as I can remember. I didn't expect quite so many traverses/walks between pitches. I stayed on belay for one of the traverses. After a few of them we decided to save time and just walk together while carrying the rope. The terrain is all pretty easy between pitches so this felt fine.

Pitch 7: Excellent. "Wild" face moves were indeed wild. My friend enjoyed this less; ended up skipping one of the moves since he followed and could still pull gear that way.

Pitch 10: Really fun.

Pitch 14: Probably my favorite pitch. Good traversing to start, a few good slab moves, and finished with some really fun overhung stuff to get up into the chimney. I had to use some muscle to finish it on lead but it wasn't too bad. Big mistake: I thought it finished in the chimney. Go *through* the chimney; anchors are just above it.

Pitch 18: Not as hard as 10 and 14.

We finished climbing at 5:15. It took about 3 hours to rappel. We sort of followed a trail on the hike out but we lost it about half way down.

Overall: Really great climb. Lots of styles of moves, very safe. May 7, 2018
Jennifer Saito
Chicago
Jennifer Saito   Chicago
can we do this with one 70m rope? thank you for your help! May 7, 2018
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
Jennifer -
According to the Descent section above, a 60-m rope is sufficient. So, I suppose a 70 will feel even safer. May 7, 2018
Jennifer Saito
Chicago
Jennifer Saito   Chicago
My bad. If only I could read! Thanks, Jon. May 7, 2018
Gregger Man
Broomfield, CO
 
Gregger Man   Broomfield, CO
 
Not bad. We climbed this on 5/14/18 when there was record heat in Seattle - not sure what the temperature was on the route, but it was hot. In retrospect, I would have done better had I climbed in approach shoes instead. The most difficult moves did not seem to me to require precision foot placements, and by the end our feet hurt in the rock shoes (partly due to the heat, partly due to the amount of walking on the 4th class sections.) May 16, 2018
Steph Abegg
Bellingham, WA
Steph Abegg   Bellingham, WA
Climbed Flyboys yesterday (May 26, 2018). Some comments:
(1) 7 parties on route. Popular.
(2) You can climb the route with 16 quickdraws. I would recommend perhaps making 4-6 of these alpine draws to minimize rope drag in certain sections.
(3) You can link pitches. We linked quite a few with some simulclimbing but you could link even without simulclimbing.
(4) The rap route is just beside the climbing route the whole way. There are loose rocks on several of the ledges, so be very careful about kicking rocks off on people coming up.
(5) Fun day, can go quite quick (especially if you link pitches). We climbed the route in 3 hours and rappelled in 1.5 hours. May 27, 2018
Charles Yang
Phoenix, AZ
 
Charles Yang   Phoenix, AZ
 
Trip Report:
From the parking lot walk back towards the Mazama store for 200 feet. Look on the left for a small steep trail going into the forest towards the wall, near a giant boulder. Start hiking! Approach is pretty steep in your face the whole time. The trail is obvious and head towards the talus. Once at the base of the talus, the trail is less obvious but still pretty easy. Use your brain a little more, follow cairns, and aim for the base between some fixed ropes on a single pitch crag and a giant white/wet streak which was Restless Natives. If no fixed ropes, aim for Restless Natives. Once you get to the base of the wall, there's a fork. Go left. This trail goes up and down a little and eventually takes you up and right to the base of Flyboys. Easier approach then Prime Rib. Thank you to everyone who made the trail it's very straightforward.

8:03: left parking lot
8:34: arrived at base
9:18: reached top of P3
10:30: reached top of P7, waited a little bit on people.
At this point we learned there were 5 parties ahead of us and decided to rappel and go eat lunch then climb at Fun Rock rather than wait. Linked 1 - 3, 4 - 6, and did 7 individually.

The whole plan was to link 7 - 8, 9 - 11, 12 - 14, 15 - 16, and 17 - 18. Will have to return and get up earlier! Aiming to finish the the whole route in 4 hours.

P3, 4, 6 and 7 were really fun. Bring a helmet and a prussik for rappelling.

Brought 29 draws (14 regular, 15 alpine), 70m rope, 2 liters of water, a sandwich and cliff bar.

Thank you Jerry and Bryan for a great route. Jun 4, 2018
My first ever via ferrata...

We parked at the second pullout and followed the trail for PR angling right towards FB when it seemed sensible. The scree is nowhere near so bad as pundits suggest and the total approach time is a mere 30 min.

The majority of the climbing is very straightforward with nothing resembling 'sustained' (i.e. pumpy/enduring difficulties) climbing. One of the posters here wished they could have done it in approach shoes. I may not go that far, but it certainly could be done that way as the vast majority of footholds were large and there is little technical difficulty. Cruxes are very brief, exceptionally well-protected, and usually have excellent rests (read: no hands) before and after them. Descriptors such as 'wild face moves' seem out of place and suggest a far more difficult and exhilarating experience than is the case. Pulling a crux with bolts at my waist and shoulder level on good holds does not constitute 'wild' I'm sorry to say and it's important not to overstate the challenges encountered on this climb.

It's the clear that the developers endeavored to create a safe and accessible climb and they succeeded in their goals. It is safe and then some. To see the 5.3 pitch with barely more than 8 feet between bolts is indeed a sight to behold.
If you like well-protected climbs with no challenging moves above bolts, this is for you.
If you prefer a more adventurous, committing feel, you might look elsewhere.
With respect, there did appear to be a number of bolts in odd/unnecessary locations, even for timid leaders.

There are a few nice pitches and many average ones which is to be expected on a route of its length. The rock is generally good, though with some obvious loose sections, which again is to be expected. Nice view from the summit.

We didn't rap due to high winds and opted for the long walk home. Lucky enough to get picked up.
For visitors: ARRANGE A SHUTTLE FROM THE TOP BY ANY MEANS NECESSARY BEFORE STARTING. 3 days ago
wakaranai
Mount Vernon, WA
wakaranai   Mount Vernon, WA
If you get to the mine on the approach you went a touch too far. Bikes are the way to go. We did it in about 12 pitches linking several and would have linked more but there are so many ledges it made us pretty anxious about knocking rocks on the party below. A couple of memorable pitches...the squeeze chimney and P7 corner thing for sure stick out as the best of the climb despite some razor sharp rock on chimney. Worth doing this as an early season alpine sporty adventure for sure! You'll likely be skipping some clips but who cares, do it, it's fun! The topo on this thread shows it as a grade V which it is not even close. It is not a grade IV either....there are many more committing Grade III's out there actually 2 days ago
GPS Coordinates for the start of the climb: 48.623704,-120.450665
For the parking pullout: 48.622325,-120.454698 1 day ago

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