Avg: 3.2 from 424 votes
|Type:||Sport, 1800 ft (545 m), 18 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Bryan Burdo, Jerry Daniels|
|Page Views:||139,835 total · 2,148/month|
|Shared By:||Elias Jordan on Nov 7, 2017 · Updates|
|Admins:||applewood, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
The Methow Valley Climbers, a chapter of the Washington Climbers Coalition, respectfully asks visiting climbers to NOT camp or sleep in your vehicles anywhere along the paved section of Lost River Road or in the Fun Rock parking lot ... Please use a blue bag when on route and take all of your trash home. We thank you for taking responsibility during your visit to help keep climbers in good relations with the local community. Welcome to the valley and safe climbing.
From the USFS:
When planning your visit to the Methow Valley, please choose an appropriate campsite and use established toilets, or pack it out in areas without toilets. The roadside pullouts below the Goat Wall and Gate Creek are NOT considered sustainable places to camp due to proximity to the Methow River and lack of toilets.
Please see the uploaded map "Camping for Climbers" for campgrounds ($8-12 per night) and low-impact FREE dispersed areas with toilets within a few miles of your favorite crag. Free sites include: Goat Creek and Yellowjacket SnoParks (April-October only), and dispersed sites west of Monument Creek Trailhead.
Follow the trail up through the forest and into a boulder field, eventually leading to talus. find your way through the talus on the currently (Summer 2017) well-defined path trending LEFT towards the wall (Right will bring you to Restless Natives). Follow the talus up a gully with cairns leading you to the base of route near a large dead tree. Allow 20-45 min
**From the Methow Valley Climbers group, "Please do not car camp at this parking. Human waste is becoming an issue and climbers are getting a well deserved bad press with the locals using the swimming area (camp at Yellow Jacket down the road)."
Contributed from user JJ W W:
GPS Coordinates for the start of the climb: 48.623704,-120.450665
Car Shuttle: 48.625722, -120.438139
Parking for Approach: 48.622325, -120.454698
1) 5.9, 9 bolts. Start in a right facing corner, 40 feet to the Right of a large dead tree. 1st bolt is near head height. Thin face crux up high.
2) 5.6, 8 bolts. Easy ramp to 15-foot block, mantle onto slab and continue to chains
3) 5.8, 10 bolts. Steep face to ledges, ending at an exposed belay.
4) 5.9, 11 bolts. Traverse left into intricate face moves followed by sustained face climbing.
5) Low 5th Class, 5 bolts. "When second arrives move belay 4 feet towards gully. Extend 3rd bolt with a runner to avoid rope drag. Continue past rappel anchor to base of pitch 6"
6) 5.8, 9 bolts. Tricky bulge leads to excellent arête climbing. Walk 40m south to base of wall to start next pitch
7) 5.9, 8 bolts. Stemming corner leads to steep and wild face moves into a crack.
8) 5.8, 16 bolts. Sustained enjoyable climbing leads to a large ledge. Follow Cairns for 50m South to start of the next pitch.
9) 5.9, 15 bolts. "Perfect pocket pitch", Scramble up and to the right of flag tree for next pitch.
10) 5.9, 10 bolts. Over-hanging jugs in broken flakes lead to an exposed belay.
11) 5.7, 14 bolts. Diagonal face leads to a clean slab. Walk past trees to south 50 yards to start of pitch 12.
12) 5.7, 9 bolts. Sustained moderate climbing through corners and overlaps.
13) 5.8, 14 bolts. Continue climbing through corners and overlaps.
14) 5.9, 9 bolts. Stay left on arête to short-face followed by traversing flake into a squeeze chimney.
15) 5.4, 6 bolts. Follow bolts through easy slab trending left to a stance above a gully.
16) 5.8, 7 bolts. Step across the abyss to exposed arête and jug ladder. Scramble 3rd class past lone pine tree to start of 17.
17) 5.7, 10 bolts. Boulder start leads to step face trending right.
18) 5.9, 10 bolts. 3 consecutive 5.9+ bouldery problems lead to the exposed finish.
Two options are available.
Option One: Walk to the top of the Goat wall and then towards Goat Creek Rd. 10miles of dirt & paved road will take you back to the Trailhead. *Pre-arrange a car/bike shuttle*.
Option Two: Rappel the route via a rappel route adjacent to Flyboys. Rappel stations have three bolts, two with chains. These are not to be confused with the climbing anchors which are three bolts, sans-chains. 18 rappels to the ground. A 70 m rope is recommended for the rappels versus trying to make a 60m work and depending on rope stretch - BE SURE TO TIE KNOTS IN THE ENDS OF YOUR ROPE. Be very aware of loose rock on the rappel line and parties below. Given the nature of this climb and that the alpine environment experiences extreme temperature ranges, rock fracturing and loose rock is to be expected.