Type: Trad, Sport, Aid, 1500 ft (455 m), 12 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Bryan Burdo and Peter Dorrish
Page Views: 2,837 total · 34/month
Shared By: Brenden Sullivan on Nov 21, 2013 with 4 Suggestions
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Camping for Climbers in Mazama Details

Description

This was the first rock route established on Goat Wall in 1989. The first 450 feet of the route has been cleaned and bolted. The next nine pitches are adventure-climbing on “ungroomed” rock. Mostly moderate climbing, gear anchors, a short section of aid through on the upper pitches of the Diamond Point Buttress, and a scramble to the summit. The first three pitches are highly recommended and can be done at grade II, most parties that continue stop at the treed ledge after pitch 7, and rap Sisyphus. Pitch 3 was retro bolted in 2006.Pitch 1 - 5 Bolts, 5.6, 120 ft (bolted anchor)Pitch 2 - 15 Bolts, 5.10a, 200 ft (bolted anchor)Pitch 3 - 12+ Bolts, 5.10c, 150 ft (bolted anchor)Pitch 4 - Gear, 5.9+,Pitch 5 - Gear, 5.5,Pitch 6 - Gear, 5.5,Pitch 7 - Gear, 5.8,Pitch 8 - 2 Bolts, Gear, 5.9 (to treed ledge)4 more pitches, 5.11a/A1, 5.8 and 5.9 pitches and scramble to the top or rappel SisyphusRack: .01"-5" Doubles .2 to 3"; 2 x 60's is the only way off if not completed to the Treed-ledge

**Raptors nest on the Diamond point buttress above. May-July. When you top Pitch-7 out please do not continue higher, talk, walk around, or attempt to walk off during this Spring nesting season; leave as soon as possible. The biologist asks: "If the raptor notices you, and changes their behavior in any way, please start your descent"

Thanks! MVClimbers

Location

Park 3.1 miles from the Mazama store, find the climbers path and hike 20 minutes to the wall.Approach as to climb Sisyphus (away from the start of Methow Inspiration Route) and access a gully marked by a solo prominent ponderosa pine tree , well to the right of Sisyphus. Scramble up the gully. Before it chokes there is a staging area and the first bolt on the left corner of the buttress. If you find yourself scrambling up fourth or low fifth class rock you should be looking for sparse bolts, you've likely already missed the first few. 

Protection

Bring at least 15 draws for the first 3 pitches. Doubles to 4 and a single 5 for the full adventure.

Photos