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Routes in Goat Wall

Flyboys S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goats Beard Ice WI5
Methow Inspiration Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Prime Rib of Goat S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Promised Land T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A1
Restless Natives S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sisyphus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, Aid, 1500 ft, 12 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Bryan Burdo
Page Views: 1,116 total · 22/month
Shared By: Brenden Sullivan on Nov 21, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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Description

A long-term project, of which the first 500 feet have been thoroughly cleaned and well-bolted on excellent rock. The remainder of the climb is an adventure in route-finding on easy to moderate and un-groomed rock ending in a scramble to the summit making this the longest known "limestone-cilicate" climb in the United States. First three pitches are highly recommended and can be done at grade II.

Pitch 1 - 5 Bolts, Easy 5th, 120 ft
Pitch 2 - 13+ Bolts, 5.10-, 150 ft
Pitch 3 - 12+ Bolts, 5.10c, 150 ft
Pitch 4 - Gear, 5.9+, Anchors
Pitch 5 - Gear, 5.5, Anchors
Pitch 6 - Gear, 5.5, Anchors
Pitch 7 - Gear, 5.8, Anchors
Pitch 8 - 2 Bolts, Gear, 5.9, Anchors
4 more pitches, 5.11a/A1, scramble to the top or rappel Sisyphus

Location

Park 3.1 miles from the Mazama store, find the climbers path and hike 20 minutes to the wall. The route is located on the Huge wall a few hundred feet left of the cairns for the "Inspiration Route" and to right of "Sisyphus"

Protection

Bring at least 15 draws for the first 3 pitches. Full rack for the full adventure.

Photos

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Eli B.  
Traverse left, away from the start of Methow Inspiration Route, and up a small gully above a prominant pine tree to find the base of the route. If you find yourself scrambling up fourth or low fifth class rock looking for the bolts, you've likely already missed them. That said, scrambling up the first pitch isn't that bad. Aug 9, 2016