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Routes in Goat Wall
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Born in Time S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Claymore (aka Czech Gully) T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI2-3 M3-4 Steep Snow |
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Flyboys S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Goat's Beard Ice WI5 |
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Mazama Queen T WI3 M6 Steep Snow PG13 |
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Methow Inspiration Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Prime Rib S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Promised Land T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A1 |
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Restless Natives S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sisyphus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Standard, The WI3-4 |
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Where the Buffalo Roam S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 1500 ft (455 m), 12 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Bryan Burdo and Peter Dorrish |
| Page Views: | 4,658 total · 34/month |
| Shared By: | Brenden Sullivan on Nov 21, 2013 · Updates |
| Admins: | applewood, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Access Issue: Camping for Climbers in Mazama
Details
From the MVC:
The Methow Valley Climbers, a chapter of the Washington Climbers Coalition, respectfully asks visiting climbers to NOT camp or sleep in your vehicles anywhere along the paved section of Lost River Road or in the Fun Rock parking lot ... Please use a blue bag when on route and take all of your trash home. We thank you for taking responsibility during your visit to help keep climbers in good relations with the local community. Welcome to the valley and safe climbing.
From the USFS:
When planning your visit to the Methow Valley, please choose an appropriate campsite and use established toilets, or pack it out in areas without toilets. The roadside pullouts below the Goat Wall and Gate Creek are NOT considered sustainable places to camp due to proximity to the Methow River and lack of toilets.
Please see the uploaded map "Camping for Climbers" for campgrounds ($8-12 per night) and low-impact FREE dispersed areas with toilets within a few miles of your favorite crag. Free sites include: Goat Creek and Yellowjacket SnoParks (April-October only), and dispersed sites west of Monument Creek Trailhead.
The Methow Valley Climbers, a chapter of the Washington Climbers Coalition, respectfully asks visiting climbers to NOT camp or sleep in your vehicles anywhere along the paved section of Lost River Road or in the Fun Rock parking lot ... Please use a blue bag when on route and take all of your trash home. We thank you for taking responsibility during your visit to help keep climbers in good relations with the local community. Welcome to the valley and safe climbing.
From the USFS:
When planning your visit to the Methow Valley, please choose an appropriate campsite and use established toilets, or pack it out in areas without toilets. The roadside pullouts below the Goat Wall and Gate Creek are NOT considered sustainable places to camp due to proximity to the Methow River and lack of toilets.
Please see the uploaded map "Camping for Climbers" for campgrounds ($8-12 per night) and low-impact FREE dispersed areas with toilets within a few miles of your favorite crag. Free sites include: Goat Creek and Yellowjacket SnoParks (April-October only), and dispersed sites west of Monument Creek Trailhead.
Description
This was the first rock route established on Goat Wall in 1989. The first 450 feet of the route has been cleaned and bolted. The next nine pitches are adventure-climbing on “ungroomed” rock. Mostly moderate climbing, gear anchors, a short section of aid through on the upper pitches of the Diamond Point Buttress, and a scramble to the summit. The first three pitches are highly recommended and can be done at grade II, most parties that continue stop at the treed ledge after pitch 7, and rap Sisyphus. Pitch 3 was retro bolted in 2006.Pitch 1 - 5 Bolts, 5.6, 120 ft (bolted anchor)Pitch 2 - 15 Bolts, 5.10a, 200 ft (bolted anchor)Pitch 3 - 12+ Bolts, 5.10c, 150 ft (bolted anchor)Pitch 4 - Gear, 5.9+,Pitch 5 - Gear, 5.5,Pitch 6 - Gear, 5.5,Pitch 7 - Gear, 5.8,Pitch 8 - 2 Bolts, Gear, 5.9 (to treed ledge)4 more pitches, 5.11a/A1, 5.8 and 5.9 pitches and scramble to the top or rappel SisyphusRack: .01"-5" Doubles .2 to 3"; 2 x 60's is the only way off if not completed to the Treed-ledge
**Raptors nest on the Diamond point buttress above. May-July. When you top Pitch-7 out please do not continue higher, talk, walk around, or attempt to walk off during this Spring nesting season; leave as soon as possible. The biologist asks: "If the raptor notices you, and changes their behavior in any way, please start your descent"
Thanks! MVClimbers
**Raptors nest on the Diamond point buttress above. May-July. When you top Pitch-7 out please do not continue higher, talk, walk around, or attempt to walk off during this Spring nesting season; leave as soon as possible. The biologist asks: "If the raptor notices you, and changes their behavior in any way, please start your descent"
Thanks! MVClimbers
Location
Park 3.1 miles from the Mazama store, find the climbers path and hike 20 minutes to the wall.Approach as to climb Sisyphus (away from the start of Methow Inspiration Route) and access a gully marked by a solo prominent ponderosa pine tree , well to the right of Sisyphus. Scramble up the gully. Before it chokes there is a staging area and the first bolt on the left corner of the buttress. If you find yourself scrambling up fourth or low fifth class rock you should be looking for sparse bolts, you've likely already missed the first few.
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