Elevation: 3,293 ft
GPS: 48.623, -120.449 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 181,321 total · 1,667/month
Shared By: Skyeler Congdon on Jun 28, 2011 with improvements by Andrew Davidson and 2 others
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters
Access Issue: Camping for Climbers in Mazama Details

Description

The Goat Wall is an enormous glacially carved massif of Meta-pyroclastics standing 1,500 ft tall and several miles wide. Route potential remains and continues to be developed (though the rock quality varies considerably). The rock can be brown, green, and pink with a shattered look and incipient crack systems. Glacier polish, anti-pumice pockets, irregular cracks, and jagged holds make the texture of the stone. In the early 1900's The wall was first used for Mining prospects for Silver, Gold, and Copper.
          Goat Wall’s first climbing epoch was between the winters of 1987-1990 primarily by the opening of several ice climbing routes with mandatory links of mixed climbing. Eli Holmes, Karen Zikan, a local Czech couple, opened several of the main ice and mixed climbs via ground-up efforts to their natural end. Two of their lines completed the entire feature. Local Guides Tom Kimbrell, Geoff Childs, and partner Jack Lewis were also very active discovering interesting new climbs.  Near the end of this development episode was the prolific ascent of the famed Goat’s Beard. Tom Kimbrell and Jack Lewis would open the longest ice climb in the PNW in a two day effort in 1990. The Goat’s Beard would not see a second ascent until 2013.
           1989 Byran Burdo and Peter Dorrish would repurpose the wall for summer rock climbing and develop Promised Land, a 1500 ft 12 pitch sport, trad, aid climb up a main face of the wall. This was the first route to strategically develop a climb with a drill for pre-placed protection. Then followed the Methow Inspiration Route II 5.9 by Arain Manchego in1996.  Burdo returned with Sarah Lenard and developed Restless Natives IV 5.12a 1998 on same rock were the Goat’s Beard flows solidifying a trend of multi-pitch sport.
           The second wave of new winter route activity would not be until 1998-2005 where Geoff Childs, Sean McCabe and Steve House, would open several new ice climbs that formed unique to this timeframe. The major contribution by House would be a significant uptick in technical difficulty in ice movement by the opening of Cinnamon Stick WI5+, Sword of Damocles WI6, and mixed climbs like the Scottish Variation M6+ (on gear) of Claymore (A.K.A. the Czech Gully). Steve moved to Bend and Sean McCabe would tragically pass ending this productive partnerships.
           Goat Wall has been long forgotten as a venue that offers ice and mixed climbs. The contemporary lens is primarily focused on developed long, equipped, sport climbs.  The Methow Inspiration Route 5.9 II (Manchego), Sisyphus II+ 5.11 (Goldie,Johnston), Prime Rib II 5.8 (Burdo,Johnston) and Fly Boys IV 5.9 (Burdo, Daniels) added to the wall’s resume of longer developed sport routes. Many new climbers have gravitated to these climbs and are enjoying the era of long sport-multi pitches much like the many venues in Europe.
            Regardless of the recent trend, some local climbers still see natural lines as interesting and viable. In 2010 two local climbers climbed the Central Rib 5.9 III (Allen,Pond), the largest feature of the wall, in an on-sight ground up effort to explore the feasibility of a natural rock lines. 2018 two other local climbers would establish Redemption II 5.9 (Goldie,Pattison) yet another ground-up trad-line on the Wall.  In January of 2019, the winter climb Mazama Queen III M6 WI3 PG13 (Allen,Keena-Levin) was completed after a 3-year effort resulting in a ground up 9-pitch developed mixed climb focusing on natural lines with gear protected pitches and equipped anchors.  Later that same January, a ground-up 6-pitch trad mixed climb would also be opened The Great Zahn II M5+ (Allen, Brett) starting at the Rainbow Mine shaft near Gate Creek
          If there is anything to glean from the walls history is that there is not a-way, and an ethic has not crystallized. This is a multi-style venue with some very active players, with fits of activity.  Goat Wall is known for only a few of its climbs. However, it has an exceptional history and has attracted great talent. The Goat’s potential is not fully discovered. To think that you need a drill to explore on Goat Wall is absurd. To stigmatize the use of drills is equally off balance and limiting.  Style should always be considered with how the development of a route will effect the venue and its culture. More, what are the impacts? One thing is for certain, this once-be-chos pile is now a very important part of the Methow's climbing activity and appeal. If you are visiting please respect it for those that will enjoy it after you. Clean up your trash and bag your poop. Most of all have a great time on the Goat, it has a lot to offer.  ~Mark Allen 2019

Warning: Come prepared to climb this wall. The plan of walking off should not be your only option. Be prepared to not make it to the top. It’s not a gym. People do die here. Many have been rescued. It is not a good first multi pitch venue unless with a professional guide or expert partner. Respect the community around the Methow, and not just the climbing community.

Getting There

3 miles north of the Mazama Store on Lost River Road.

8 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Goat Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI5
 5
Goat's Beard Ice
Ice 7 pitches
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 261
Prime Rib
Sport 11 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 69
Methow Inspiration Route
Sport 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 199
Flyboys
Sport 18 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 69
Sisyphus
Sport 10 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A1
 3
Promised Land
Trad, Sport, Aid 12 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 17
Restless Natives
Sport 10 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Goat's Beard Ice
 5
WI5 Ice 7 pitches
Prime Rib
 261
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport 11 pitches
Methow Inspiration Route
 69
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 5 pitches
Flyboys
 199
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 18 pitches
Sisyphus
 69
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 10 pitches
Promised Land
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A1 Trad, Sport, Aid 12 pitches
Restless Natives
 17
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport 10 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Goat Wall »

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