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Routes in Goat Wall
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Born in Time S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Claymore (aka Czech Gully) T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI2-3 M3-4 Steep Snow |
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Flyboys S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Goat's Beard Ice WI5 |
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Mazama Queen T WI3 M6 Steep Snow PG13 |
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Methow Inspiration Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Prime Rib S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Promised Land T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A1 |
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Restless Natives S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sisyphus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Standard, The WI3-4 |
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Where the Buffalo Roam S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
| Type: | Sport, 755 ft (229 m), 9 pitches |
| GPS: | 48.62285, -120.44865 |
| FA: | Annette Daniels, Jerry Daniels, 2024 |
| Page Views: | 900 total · 41/month |
| Shared By: | Chris C on Apr 15, 2024 · Updates |
| Admins: | applewood, Jon Nelson, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Access Issue: Camping for Climbers in Mazama
Details
The Methow Valley Climbers, a chapter of the Washington Climbers Coalition, respectfully asks visiting climbers to NOT camp or sleep in your vehicles anywhere along the paved section of Lost River Road or in the Fun Rock parking lot ... Please use a blue bag when on route and take all of your trash home. We thank you for taking responsibility during your visit to help keep climbers in good relations with the local community. Welcome to the valley and safe climbing.
From the USFS:
When planning your visit to the Methow Valley, please choose an appropriate campsite and use established toilets, or pack it out in areas without toilets. The roadside pullouts below the Goat Wall and Gate Creek are NOT considered sustainable places to camp due to proximity to the Methow River and lack of toilets.
Please see the uploaded map "Camping for Climbers" for campgrounds ($8-12 per night) and low-impact FREE dispersed areas with toilets within a few miles of your favorite crag. Free sites include: Goat Creek and Yellowjacket SnoParks (April-October only), and dispersed sites west of Monument Creek Trailhead.
Description
Pitches:
P1, 5.6: Scramble to a ledge belay (100’, 6 bolts)
P2, 5.7: Climb up overlapping sections trending right with several bulges to belay (100’, 9 bolts)
P3, 5.9: Step left from belay and climb fun face that first trends left and then right to belay over the lip (80’, 10 bolts)
P4, 5.8: Continue up slabby terrain to belay (90’, 5 bolts)
P5, 5.7: Alpine feeling pitch with a tricky face start to ledge trending right along wall to belay (125’, 10 bolts)
Note: at the 8th bolt, continue up and rightward following bolts toward an anchor with no rap rings. DO NOT head straight up following a bolt above the 8th bolt. This will take you to a chain anchor, which is a part of the rappel line.
P6, 5.7: make blocky moves finishing below short face (70’, 7 bolts)
P7, 5.8: Bouldery start to easy terrain trends right to base of headwall (50’, 4 bolts)
P8, 10a: Directly tackle the yellow crystal block that lean left unlocking the positive holds and tricky movement to a corner then climb to an intermediate anchor (70’, 7 bolts)
P9, 5.8: Head up to the final anchor (70’, 5 bolts)
*bolt numbers may be +/-1, the developers indicate that 16 draws should be carried on this route
Note: For the purpose of easing communication and belaying the second, the original pitch 8 is now broken down into two pitches, each 70' in length.
Descent:
Rap 1: Short rap from the top to the top anchor of P8
Rap 2: Rap to chains rappeller’s left slightly below the start of P7
Rap 3: Rap straight down to rappeller’s left of the bolt line, left of a few trees, over a lip to the rap anchor
Rap 4: Rap straight down to rejoin the bolt line at the top anchor of P4
Rap 5-8: Rap the reminder of the route to the ground
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