[Hide Comment] Overall, a pretty decent route. I thought it was much better than Prime Rib, much cleaner though a little harder. There were definitely a few more 5.9 moves. The current rappel/station is kind of a cluster. We made it up in 4 pitches with a 70m rope (maybe could have done it in 3 if we had tried?), but it took 5 or 6 raps down due to our being overly cautious. Aug 27, 2013

[Hide Comment] Route starts 48.61942, -120.44643 Oct 6, 2015

[Hide Comment] Pitch 5 was very money. I thought the crux of the route was the pulling the 5.9 bulge on pitch 4.

We got down in 3 raps using 3 double 60m rappels from the top of p5. May 16, 2016

[Hide Comment] We rappelled no problem with a single 70 meter rope. Could have done it with a 60 m. Just go straight down from the anchor at the top of the last pitch and you will use, I believe, five, maybe six, rappel stations. Just keep an eye out for the large and bomber anchors, which we encountered at every station. Fun, mellow route, good for a late afternoon climb. Easy to bail off at any point. Jun 21, 2016

[Hide Comment] A good quality, quick climb. Fans of Prime Rib should be advised that there is a short section (last pitch) that is actually 5.9, with a few moves in that grade that would be best to not fall off. Not to deter anyone, as it is a safe climb, just maybe not a great first 5.9. Very clean rock the whole way. Yes, you can rap with a single 60m, just look for the extra rap stations and tie knots Jul 5, 2016

[Hide Comment] Agree with the route start coordinates posted by someone else. Trail is easy to find and follow from the road. Much more stable than trail to Prime Rib.

Somehow we ended up with 7 pitches. We split P2 in half by accident. I think the idea is to belay at the hangers w/o chains when available.

Hardest move is the crux on P4. P5 is a sustained lead that is quite fun. The rest of the route is probably 5.6-5.7.

We made six raps on a 60m, stopping only at the stations with chains. Another party had a 70 and was able to get from the top of P4 to the top of P3, just barely.

This was a fun, short, and enjoyable route. Aug 13, 2017

[Hide Comment] We climbed this on 9/2/2018 and the route was in good condition (all bolts looked good; no broken holds). We heard some rockfall from the route to climbers' left (Sisyphus?). Here's some info on how to get to the start, as that was the hardest part for us. Everyone else's beta here is correct, so this is just more detail.

Drive 2.9 miles from the Mazama Store on Lost River Rd. Look for the yellow road sign with the curvy arrow and the 45 MPH limit. Park in a pullout on the left across from that sign. The trail starts at that yellow sign- it is hard to see from the road, but gets clearer just a little uphill. A couple minutes up the trail there is a wooden kiosk trail register. The trail register is visible from the road but a bit hard to see because it's in the trees. The beginning of the trail is a proper trail but pretty soon it becomes a scree field. We took about 1 hour on the approach (going slow as one of us is recovering from an ankle injury so scree hiking is rough; I think a fast party could do it in 30 min). Paul's photo of the approach was helpful in identifying where to start. There is a belay bolt at the start but it took us a while to find it- the bolts are pretty well camouflaged.

Pitches 1 and 5 have some runouts (that was my impression following those pitches anyway). If you are leading at your limit at 5.9, it will be a bit scary. I led pitch 2 and found it easy climbing but challenging to spot the next bolt because it wanders a bit. I got confused and strung it together with pitch 3, which I don't recommend due to severe rope drag. Sep 15, 2018

[Hide Comment] Worth mentioning for the approach: the trail past the treeline is fairly well defined and marked with rock cairns, and also continues to Sisyphus and Flyboys. Maybe even Prime Rib, but at that point it's probably worth using the approach trail from the other parking pull-out instead.

We climbed in 5 pitches as a party of three with two 70m ropes. It might be worth trying to link P2 & P3, rope drag be darned. I'm not sure what beta the other commenter was using for P4 but the 5.9 rating seemed sandbagged to us, as it's short with just 1 or 2 well protected boulder-y moves. P5 was absolutely beautiful.

Rapping was straightforward and well-addressed by other commenters. Jul 29, 2019

[Hide Comment] climbing.com/places/long-ha…
This 2.5 star route is even featured in a climbing mag article May 1, 2020

[Hide Comment] Nice route on clean rock. The climb starts a couple hundred feet to the right of the ascent scree slope, and you have to climb a 10' step to get there. The route begins to the right of a large Ponderosa pine tree. We got off in 3 rappels with double 70's. The last pitch had a stretch of 5.9+ that felt pretty runout to me. When I got to the crux move I was about 20' above the last bolt, and about 3' from the next bolt. I would have decked on the ledge below me if I'd fallen. I recommend leading this only if you're solid at the grade. Oct 11, 2020

[Hide Comment] All crux moves are well protected (within a couple of feet) despite comments to the contrary. Bolting is reasonable, just far less generous than other Mazama routes. There's nothing R about it. A party reported breaking a key hold off the crux on 29 May 2021 and suggested the crux move is likely a bit more difficult now. May 30, 2021

[Hide Comment] First time climbing on the Goat Wall and loved the rock! The approach is straight uphill so give yourself some time to get up. This route had everything from slab to straight wall to roofs moves. We climbed it as a party of two and called it after the 4th pitch but it was a great adventure up. The clips were a little spread out but never felt like it wasn't something we could handle. Did 4 double rope rappels with a 70 meter rope. Oct 3, 2021

[Hide Comment] I do not recommend walking off of this route. Above the end of the route, there is a series of 20-40 foot chossy cliff bands that range from class 4 to 5.8 that must be soloed. My partner and I are both 5.12 climbers, and we felt very unsafe on these. Jul 1, 2022

[Hide Comment] This was my first climb in Mazama, and it was a great way to start. Park in the large pull off prior to the "Swimming Hole", the trail head begins just behind the 45MPH speed limit sign, you will pass a climber's kiosk, continue through the woods for roughly 15 minutes then a scree field, the trail was pretty easy to follow, and the last section you scramble up a 10-foot face, with a cairn at the bottom and top. Pitches 1-3 were all well protected and well graded, Pitch 4 there is a one move crux, would say it goes at 9+, but very protected. Pitch 5 was super fun, but not nearly as protected as the other pitches or climbs in the area, often 15-20 between bolts and I would say it goes at 10.A. There is an alternate belay station roughly 3/4 the way up on the left, but continued past to the anchors at the top, there was a fair amount of rope drag was very manageable. I wouldn't recommend this pitch to anyone who is not confident on 5.10. Rappelling was super easy and straight forward with a 70M rope. Started climbing around 8:30 and had shade all the way up, but some sun on the way down. Aug 8, 2022

[Hide Comment] I found the bolt spacing to be larger then expected on all the pitches of this climb. The previous comments make it sound like pitche 1 and 5 are spaced but I didn't find them out of character for the rest of the climb. There is one crux move you have to do to clip a bolt on pitch 5. Other then that all the hard bits are bolt protected. Aug 29, 2022

[Hide Comment] As of the September 2022 re-bolt, the only spooky bit is a long but easy runout low on the first pitch. Local guides and one member of the FA party (me) made a few tweaks with Arian Manchego's blessing to turn this into the route we intended to create all those decades ago. Your WARP/WCC/ASCA dollars funded the overall project for in-kind bolt replacement but I used my own funds to cover the additional hardware.

FYI I've tried rapping this with an 80m rope and it doesn't really save any time. The stations were designed for a single 60 and we only managed to skip one of them using a long rope. Mar 8, 2023

[Hide Comment] Our trip meter showed 2.7 miles at the 45mph sign. Trail starts 10' east of the sign. The wooden climbing register kiosk is ~100' from the road, hard to spot while driving. May 29, 2023

[Hide Comment] FYI: As of the rebolt last fall (presumably), 10 draws is no longer enough for the last pitch. There are 14 (or maybe 13) bolts, so you’ll want up to 15 draws if you want to clip the anchor as well. The 5th pitch is fairly sustained around 5.8/5.9 in my opinion, so there aren’t any bolts which can obviously be skipped to lighten the rack if that is near your limit. Jun 11, 2023

[Hide Comment] N.B. - There are now bolts to the right of this route. It's no longer the "right most" route on the Goat Wall. Oct 30, 2023

[Hide Comment] The tree at the base of the climb is a Ponderosa Pine, while all the others in the area are Douglas Fir, making the start of the route easy to find.

GPS coordinates given by Serge are accurate - 48.61942, -120.44643 May 29, 2024

[Hide Comment] For me, this is one of the best routes on Goat Wall. The bolting is great. Not too many, not too few. I like how the last pitch is a mega 50m pitch.
Route to the right (maybe 20ft) is Born In Time 10a and can easily be combined with Inspiration for a nice day of climbing. Jul 2, 2024

[Hide Comment] Great route, nicely bolted, easy route finding/raps. Thanks for putting this up!

When rapping, particularly down to the area with the tree (the flattish terrain), easy to get the rope stuck when pulling if the rope swings out climbers right. Also very easy to knock rocks down on this part of the route, there are lots of small-medium sized blocks on this lower-angle terrain. Be careful. Aug 6, 2024

[Hide Comment] See last pic for walkin access start/route Aug 14, 2024

[Hide Comment] Climbed 6/6/2025 in perfect conditions. Sunny and breezy. No sun on route until about after noon, maybe 1pm which was good because the belay pad at P1 was HOT with the sun.
Great comfy bolting with awesome rappel stations. Hardware is all in awesome shape. Thanks to the LCO for maintaining this crag.
Raptors were noisy in the air but never saw them on the wall.
Approach was legit with well marked trails. Just use your noggin and it's all there.

I pulled a tennis ball sized jug off just below the P5 anchor. Not a critical hold, but FYI for loose rock.
5-hours car-to-car with a lax pace.
70m rope gets it done. Jun 9, 2025

[Hide Comment] as others have said, p5 is stellar - dreamy hero climbing on a clean face with good exposure. Sep 2, 2025