|Type:||Trad, 5 pitches, 700', Grade II|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|Submitted By:||Dave Schultz on Sep 5, 2012|
|Comments on Mary Jane Dihedral||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Wenatchee, WA
Apr 5, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
This route deserves a bit more info.
There are three independent pitches to MJD apart form Orbit.
P1: Climb straight up from the first pitch of Orbit from the nice flat ledge just after the Orbit chimney. Climb up through growing vegetation over a pumpy little overlap to an uncomfortable hanging belay on two ancient bolts. One an old rusted Beckey bolt, the other a rusted 1/4" p.o.s. This ancient anchor can be backed up with a couple 1" cams in an uninspiring flake above.
P2: Climb straight up the corner on fun laybacks and loose flakes. Reach a new-ish bolt out left. Clip this then make tenuous, unprotected slab moves left appx. 12 feet or so above the bolt to protection opportunities. Head back right. Climb an easier and fun overlap back to the corner to a one bolt anchor that can be backed up and equalized with a #3 and #1 camalot in a solid crack to the right.
P3: Climb straight left of the belay 15 feet of unprotected slab to a new(ish) bolt. Clip this and climb another 10 horizontal feet to a flake and protection opportunities. Climb to near the top of the flake. Climb back right to a large semi-detached flake. Mantel this and climb up to the top of the MJD corner and a small roof. Make excellent, well-protected moves over this roof to fun chickenhead climbing. Run the rope straight up through two more fun but dirty small roofs, about 55 meters to the comfy alcove belay shared with Orbit route.
A true adventure route for the 5.9 leader! The slab traverses will feel more like 5.10a. The first MJD bolted anchor desperately needs updating. It's creepy due to it being a totally hanging belay. If you are frustrated waiting in line on Orbit, do not hesitate to jump on MJD as an excellent alternative. Just be sure you're comfortable with a wee bit of slab runout.
Feb 25, 2015
|Underrated as good as Orbit imo|