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Lost Face Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Clout Buster T,TR 
Delicate Moves TR 
Ibex TR 
Lost Face T,TR 
Lost Face Finger Crack T,TR 
Lost Face Overhangs I & II T,TR 
Lost in the Woods (Unnamed Route 5.7) T,TR 
Noah Vail T,TR 
Rich Bechler Memorial Route T,TR 

Lost Face 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 4,295
Submitted By: Andy Kowalski on Nov 8, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (46)
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Photo by Matthew Zahalka

Description 

Lost Face is a very sweet climb. It was actually one of my first climbs at the Lake. The approach is a bit tricky. I never found a way to hike to it, we always had to rap down. It's a fun 5.6, not to mention it's the longest climb on the West Bluff. It's a great lead, with not a bad overhang for the crux. You won't need any large gear...Tri-cams and Hexes work the best for me. When leading there is a great ledge to sit on and anchor off. The ledge is above all the trees and it has to be one of the best views at the park. Climb it in the morning. When the sun is rising it paints the Lake in this awesome glow, plus you get to see a ton of hawks flying just above your head...Well worth the early wake up. I want to try this variation. First top rope the climb at the ledge that I mentioned earlier, or lead it. Start the climb over to the right at this thin crack that shoots strait up. Then you hit the crux traverse over to the left to the overhang and continue up to the ledge. The crack to the right is listed as a 5.7 and the overhang is a 5.8. I didn't get to climb it this last time so do tell me how it turns out. This is a great spot to get you acclimated to the area, which sees little crowding.

Protection 

Tri-cams and Hexes work the best for me


Photos of Lost Face Slideshow Add Photo
Matthew on Lost Face.  Photo by Russ Miller.
Matthew on Lost Face. Photo by Russ Miller.
Matthew Zahalka at the top of Lost Face.  Photo by...
Matthew Zahalka at the top of Lost Face. Photo by...
Lost Face Routes    5.7 finger crack starts a the ...
BETA PHOTO: Lost Face Routes 5.7 finger crack starts a the ...
Photo by Russ Miller
Photo by Russ Miller
Tricia King on Lost Face 5.6. Photo Mike Lopera.
Tricia King on Lost Face 5.6. Photo Mike Lopera.
Photo by Russ Miller of Matthew Zahalka.
Photo by Russ Miller of Matthew Zahalka.
Shameless top out wave photo. So packed full of ac...
Shameless top out wave photo. So packed full of ac...
Tricia King placing pro just before the crux on Lo...
Tricia King placing pro just before the crux on Lo...
Doug at about the 85F mark while leading Lost Face...
Doug at about the 85F mark while leading Lost Face...
Part of the rampart and the Lost Face looming in t...
Part of the rampart and the Lost Face looming in t...
Lost Face
BETA PHOTO: Lost Face
Beta photo for Lost Face.
Beta photo for Lost Face.
The Lost Face. Climbers and Photographers working ...
The Lost Face. Climbers and Photographers working ...
Tricia King reaching for the guns on Lost Face 5.6...
Tricia King reaching for the guns on Lost Face 5.6...
running from the heat on lost face. June 2013.
running from the heat on lost face. June 2013.

Comments on Lost Face Add Comment
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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
May 2, 2002

The descent to the bottom of Lost Face can be tricky. If you are not going to rap in, there is a 4th class gully to the south of the face. I usually bring some webbing to "fix" a sketchy section down low. There is a horizontal tree that makes for a good anchor.
By Ed Wright
Jul 2, 2008

This is a great route. I once led it during a summer downpour in a pair of old K-Mart tennis shoes!!
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Mar 15, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I didn't have K-Mart tennis shoes but I did have 5.10's. This climb was extremely fun and the crux up through the slightly overhanging dihedral towards the top is thrilling to say the least. This climb was my 3rd lead at the Lake... and will go down as one of my favorites so far. Such a rad climb... everybody should get on this. The gear is great and next to perfect at the top for an anchor. Small to medium gear down low and bigger as you go up. Also, access to the Lost Face (if you forgo the rap in or the 4th class gully to the south) can be gained south of Great Chimney if you go down a set of stone stairs and follow the base of the crags to the Lost Face.
By NickinCO
From: colorado
May 29, 2011

Lead it today in the rain (in my climbing shoes) and I have to say it's my favorite 5.6 in the park on lead. I hiked down and it was the first time I climbed it, great gear the whole route and challenging enough to keep it fun. I didn't use a stopper bigger than a #7 and wish I had doubles of 4-6. I also used a #3 ballnut, and a full range of C3's. The top of the climb takes bigger gear (#1 or 2 C4) but the climbing is easy enough. Great climb!
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
May 30, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Just run it out next time. Makes the route way better.
By NickinCO
From: colorado
Nov 19, 2011

Yea, I put in a lot of gear. I've since done it on just a set of stoppers
By Tab Yaj
From: Minneapolis, MN
Sep 22, 2014

This route was on my To Do list for a long time. I finally led it. I wasn't able to place any protections for the first twenty feet. I got to the overhang when rain poured down on the face and it got really wet and slippery. My partner cleaned it in the rain and he was not happy. I loved the climb. Next time I'm gonna start on the finger crack to the right and go over the overhang. We rappelled down. There is no easy way to get down. The 4th class descent looks very scary. I used stoppers and one #3 cam.