Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft
FA: ??
Page Views: 4,727 total · 33/month
Shared By: James Schroeder on Apr 30, 2007
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


62 Opinions

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Description

These are both variations of the normal Lost Face Route (5.6). Basically Climb the 5.6 version of LF up to the overhang, which can be surpassed in two ways.

One variation ascends the left hand crack through the roof. The other goes up to the right of that on good holds. The two variations join again above the roof and ascend a more central crack (crux if you miss the holds). They both continue straight to top.

Protection

Standard rack or TR.
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
  5.9
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
  5.9
Way more pleasing line than the 5.6. Jul 9, 2009
Tradiban
  5.8
Tradiban  
  5.8
Tricky going left at the overhang, the feet aren't too good. Sep 8, 2011
Remo
Madison, WI
 
Remo   Madison, WI
 
Two small bees nests protect the top cracks before the finish. I was moving very gingerly due to the fact that one got me in the forehead last week while climbing Chicago. My face was like a balloon for a couple days. Anyways, just a heads up. Aug 1, 2012
EB
Winona
EB   Winona
Pictures!!! I want to see cro-magnum remo... Aug 8, 2012
Nathan Sward  
 
One of my favorite climbs! Enjoyed the heck out of this. Led the 5.6 lost face, then came back on TR for all the variations on this wall. Next time I'll just lead these 5.8's. Great pro just below the overhang.

Be aware that the wasp nest is still there, about 10' above the overhang. It is possible to go around it without sticking your hand in the crack where the nest is. Jun 29, 2015
Andy Eiter
Madison, WI
  5.8+
Andy Eiter   Madison, WI
  5.8+
Can this be top-roped with a 50m rope? Aug 8, 2018
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.8
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.8
Andy, the answer to your question is “Not well.” I’m sure, given enough rigging material, that a master point could be hung low enough to TR with a 50m, but you’d be missing out on a fair amount of the climbing. Aug 8, 2018
Andy Eiter
Madison, WI
  5.8+
Andy Eiter   Madison, WI
  5.8+
Thanks, James! I was planning on taking someone to do it tonight, but I'll find something else. Aug 9, 2018