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Lost Face

5.6, Trad, TR,  Avg: 3.5 from 81 votes
FA: unknown
Wisconsin > Devil's Lake > W Bluff 05 - W… > 01: Prospect Po… > 05: Lost Face Area

Description

Lost Face is a very sweet climb. It was actually one of my first climbs at the Lake. The approach is a bit tricky. I never found a way to hike to it, we always had to rap down. It's a fun 5.6, not to mention it's the longest climb on the West Bluff. It's a great lead, with not a bad overhang for the crux. You won't need any large gear...Tri-cams and Hexes work the best for me. When leading there is a great ledge to sit on and anchor off. The ledge is above all the trees and it has to be one of the best views at the park. Climb it in the morning. When the sun is rising it paints the Lake in this awesome glow, plus you get to see a ton of hawks flying just above your head...Well worth the early wake up. I want to try this variation. First top rope the climb at the ledge that I mentioned earlier, or lead it. Start the climb over to the right at this thin crack that shoots strait up. Then you hit the crux traverse over to the left to the overhang and continue up to the ledge. The crack to the right is listed as a 5.7 and the overhang is a 5.8. I didn't get to climb it this last time so do tell me how it turns out. This is a great spot to get you acclimated to the area, which sees little crowding.

Protection

Tri-cams and Hexes work the best for me

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Matthew on Lost Face.  Photo by Russ Miller.
[Hide Photo] Matthew on Lost Face. Photo by Russ Miller.
Lost Face Routes  <br>
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5.7 finger crack starts a the bottom right. <br>
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5.6 route is straight up the middle and slightly right. <br>
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5.8 overhangs are straight up the middle with one variation climbing the crack on the left of the overhang.
[Hide Photo] Lost Face Routes 5.7 finger crack starts a the bottom right. 5.6 route is straight up the middle and slightly right. 5.8 overhangs are straight up the middle with one variation climbin…
Photo by Matthew Zahalka
[Hide Photo] Photo by Matthew Zahalka
Matthew Zahalka at the top of Lost Face.  Photo by Russ Miller.
[Hide Photo] Matthew Zahalka at the top of Lost Face. Photo by Russ Miller.
Lost Face Multipitch
[Hide Photo] Lost Face Multipitch
Photo by Russ Miller of Matthew Zahalka.
[Hide Photo] Photo by Russ Miller of Matthew Zahalka.
Tricia King on Lost Face 5.6. Photo Mike Lopera.
[Hide Photo] Tricia King on Lost Face 5.6. Photo Mike Lopera.
running from the heat on lost face. June 2013.
[Hide Photo] running from the heat on lost face. June 2013.
Doug at about the 85F mark while leading Lost Face route 6-16-13.
[Hide Photo] Doug at about the 85F mark while leading Lost Face route 6-16-13.
The Lost Face. Climbers and Photographers working it during my first session teaching a climbing photography clinic. Summer 2011<br>
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Photo Matt Kuehl
[Hide Photo] The Lost Face. Climbers and Photographers working it during my first session teaching a climbing photography clinic. Summer 2011 Photo Matt Kuehl
Shameless top out wave photo. So packed full of action and scenery.
[Hide Photo] Shameless top out wave photo. So packed full of action and scenery.
Part of the rampart and the Lost Face looming in the background. Pretty good angle of Wild West Homo up the face on the left.
[Hide Photo] Part of the rampart and the Lost Face looming in the background. Pretty good angle of Wild West Homo up the face on the left.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

J Beta
New Hampshire
[Hide Comment] The descent to the bottom of Lost Face can be tricky. If you are not going to rap in, there is a 4th class gully to the south of the face. I usually bring some webbing to "fix" a sketchy section down low. There is a horizontal tree that makes for a good anchor. May 2, 2002
[Hide Comment] This is a great route. I once led it during a summer downpour in a pair of old K-Mart tennis shoes!! Jul 2, 2008
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.6
[Hide Comment] I didn't have K-Mart tennis shoes but I did have 5.10's. This climb was extremely fun and the crux up through the slightly overhanging dihedral towards the top is thrilling to say the least. This climb was my 3rd lead at the Lake... and will go down as one of my favorites so far. Such a rad climb... everybody should get on this. The gear is great and next to perfect at the top for an anchor. Small to medium gear down low and bigger as you go up. Also, access to the Lost Face (if you forgo the rap in or the 4th class gully to the south) can be gained south of Great Chimney if you go down a set of stone stairs and follow the base of the crags to the Lost Face. Mar 15, 2010
NickinCO
colorado
 
[Hide Comment] Lead it today in the rain (in my climbing shoes) and I have to say it's my favorite 5.6 in the park on lead. I hiked down and it was the first time I climbed it, great gear the whole route and challenging enough to keep it fun. I didn't use a stopper bigger than a #7 and wish I had doubles of 4-6. I also used a #3 ballnut, and a full range of C3's. The top of the climb takes bigger gear (#1 or 2 C4) but the climbing is easy enough. Great climb! May 29, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.6
[Hide Comment] Just run it out next time. Makes the route way better. May 30, 2011
NickinCO
colorado
 
[Hide Comment] Yea, I put in a lot of gear. I've since done it on just a set of stoppers Nov 19, 2011
T Bloodstone
Minneapolis, MN
 
[Hide Comment] This route was on my To Do list for a long time. I finally led it. I wasn't able to place any protections for the first twenty feet. I got to the overhang when rain poured down on the face and it got really wet and slippery. My partner cleaned it in the rain and he was not happy. I loved the climb. Next time I'm gonna start on the finger crack to the right and go over the overhang. We rappelled down. There is no easy way to get down. The 4th class descent looks very scary. I used stoppers and one #3 cam. Sep 22, 2014
Mike Robinson
Boulder, CO
  5.6
[Hide Comment] Hornets nest just below the alcove. Watch out! Jul 20, 2015
Ted Pinson
Chicago, IL
 
[Hide Comment] This was my first 5.6 lead at the lake, and it's a good option for the new trad leader, as the pro is plentiful and solid and stances good, intermixed with interesting climbing. You can pretty much place whatever you want on this route, once you make it past the beginning. I actually found the crux to be the opening moves onto that first ledge. Once you get up and get a piece in, it's smooth sailing. Oct 8, 2016
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
 
[Hide Comment] Do Lost Face Finger Crack instead, it's way better! May 4, 2017
Matt Bman
Chicagoland
[Hide Comment] Does this route have decent natural top rope anchor points (trees/boulders/etc) to tie in to? Aug 14, 2018
chris tregge
Beersconsin
 
[Hide Comment] Matt Bman you're going to want a few pieces of medium size gear and a modest length of webbing or static rope to set this one up. I carry 30 foot 8 or 9mm static rope and this is almost always plenty. Aug 14, 2018
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
[Hide Comment] Matt, this photo ( cdn-files.apstatic.com/clim… ) shows where most TRs are set from - the 3-point anchor with the blue rope in the lower right is the best and easiest to set up. You may want a separate anchor just to reach this spot. Aug 15, 2018
Matt Bman
Chicagoland
[Hide Comment] Are there enough trees or boulders to tie around nearby or are cams the only option for a top rope anchor? Aug 15, 2018
chris tregge
Beersconsin
 
[Hide Comment] Never gone out there with an eye for tying off some large immobile object. It probably *could* be done, but you'd probably have to have really long webbing or static line. Cam/nut setup is easy at this spot. Aug 15, 2018
Taylor Krosbakken
Duluth, MN
[Hide Comment] Wasps were very present last weekend. We bailed bailed because they were all over the face and in the cracks. May 6, 2019