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Routes in Lost Face Area

Clout Buster T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Delicate Moves TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ibex TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lost Face T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lost Face Finger Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lost Face Overhangs I & II T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lost in the Woods (Unnamed Route 5.7) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Noah Vail T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rich Bechler Memorial Route T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft
FA: Does not matter.
Page Views: 584 total, 11/month
Shared By: Burt Lindquist on Jul 24, 2013
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

This one is in memory of Rich Bechler RIP.
This is a completely ignored and recently un-earthed little gem. I lowered down it and was moved to clean alot of lichen, moss, plants, and dirt from some of it's ledges and cracks. I am quite sure this climb has been never touched but I am not absolutely sure so chime in if need be.
The crux is at 3\4 height where the is a mild run out and you climb into the little top corner. The holds are somewhat down sloping and in-obvious here so move quickly. The lower moves are tricky and a bit off balance moving up the crack if the climber stays right of the crack and slighty easier and more secure if the climber works up the left side of the crack utilizing a few side pulls off the arete on the left. There are a couple of neat pistol grip holds on this climb.

Location

Climb takes the neat set of cracks and edges up the little buttress that makes up the most left portion of the Lost Face formation

Protection

It's been oficially led by me and that isn't saying much but I found it to be quite fun and well protected. Good pro in the size from small cams and wires up to medium size cams and wires and Tri-cams. The climb ledges out at the 1/2 height of the Lost Face and an anchor can easily be built here with slings around the tree base and larger cams in the cracks that make up the under-side of the blocks here. The other option for TR set-up is to rap from the top of LF or 4th class down the gully between LF and Whipping Boy formation.

Photos

Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
A scrappy route, a diamond in the rough. Jul 25, 2013