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Lincoln Woods

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Alcove, The 
Ball Buster 
Best Kept Secret 
Buddy Boulder 
Busy Child Boulder 
Coke Bottle Boulder 
Dam Boulders 
Egg, The 
Fatboy Boulder 
Fish and Chips wall 
Font Boulder 
Fred Boulder 
Great Slab / Wave Boulder 
Heart Boulder 
Horse Cave 
Improbable Boulder 
Jesus Loves You Boulder 
Lake Side Boulder 
Little Tomato 
Lodi's Warmup 
Lost Crag 
Lower Heart 
Peace Dove Boulder 
Pond Cave 
Ship's Prow 
Sit Down area / Druid's Circle  
Suicide Boulder 
Summit / Pinnacle Boulders 
Super Crack 2 
Talus Boulder 
Tomato Boulder 
Tombstone, The 
Try Again Boulder 
Tuolumne Boulder 
Warm Up Area aka The Tomato Overhangs / Mack'sTraverse 
Yosemite Boulder 

Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Callahan Tour
A tour of both the Framingham and Marlborough sides of Callahan State Park. Near Marlborough, MA
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Lincoln Woods 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 41.8975, -71.4339 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 192,905
Administrators: M Sprague, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: jeremyadams on Jan 27, 2007
Good Page?2 people like this page. Your opinion:   
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Petes problem.

Description 

High quality bouldering on sharply-textured granite awaits urban adventurers in Lincoln Woods State Park, a few miles north of Providence, R.I. It is entirely fitting that Little Rhody's best climbing is on the small stones. Biking and walking trails link clusters of boulders, set among picnic areas and ponds. The climbing season extends deep into winter here, when sunny days in the 20s and 30s invite beanie-headed pebble wrestlers to enjoy killer friction with handwarmers simmering in chalkbags and wool socks stuffed in pockets. An excellent guidebook is complemented by beta on Newenglandbouldering.com.


Getting There 

From Rt. 146, the Twin River Road exit gains a park entrance by turning east (left)at the end of the ramp. Once in the park, find roadside parking near the T intersection and follow the road left from the T through a gate. Follow the road right, between ponds, to the warm-up area (visable up hill on left). Park access is available from other entrances, too. Alternatively, if the gates are open, you can take a right after entering the park and drive all the way around the pond to get closer to to some of the bouldering.


311 Total Routes


['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',80],['2 Stars',107],['1 Star',98],['Bomb',10]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',50],['V2-3',95],['V4-5',49],['V6-7',48],['V8-9',45],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',23],['>=V14',1]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lincoln Woods:
The Wave   V2 5+     Boulder, 20'   Great Slab / Wave Boulder
Peace Dove   V2+ 5+     Boulder, 12'   Peace Dove Boulder
Mack's Traverse   V2+ 5+     Boulder, 25'   Warm Up Area aka The Tomato... : Mack's traverse
The Quiet Buddhist   V3 6A     Boulder, 12'   Pond Cave
Iron Cross   V4 6B     Boulder   Warm Up Area aka The Tomato... : Iron Cross Boulder
Heart of Glass   V4 6B     Boulder, 12'   Heart Boulder
The Pond Cave Traverse   V4 6B     Boulder, 15'   Pond Cave
Neil's Lunge   V4 6B     Boulder, 12'   Warm Up Area aka The Tomato... : Warm Up Cave
The Executioner   V4+ 6B+     Boulder, 15'   The Tombstone
Try Again   V5 6C     Boulder   Try Again Boulder
Sit Down Traverse   V5 6C     Boulder, 20'   Sit Down area / Druid's Cir... : Split Rock
Pete's Problem   V5 6C     Boulder   Try Again Boulder
Loadies Zen   V6-7 7A+     Boulder   Try Again Boulder
Straight Again   V7 7A+     Boulder   Try Again Boulder
Last Call   V7 7A+     Boulder, 15'   Talus Boulder
Diesel   V8 7B     Boulder   Try Again Boulder
Barbed Wire   V8 7B     Boulder   Tuolumne Boulder
Who Needs Hueco   V8 7B     Boulder, 8'   Pond Cave
hueco dreams   V9 7C     Boulder, 18'   Pond Cave
Chemical   V9+ 7C     Boulder, 12'   The Egg
Browse More Classics in Lincoln Woods

Featured Route For Lincoln Woods
The Heart of Glass arete.

Heart of Glass V4 6B  Rhode Island : Lincoln Woods : Heart Boulder
This problem is fantastic, I have a hard time not throwing the pad down and getting on it every time I see it. Be warned though, in the summer it feels nearly impossible.Start with left hand on a sidepull rail and right hand on a sloper around the arete. Put your left foot on a very small/slippery hold and heel hook the arete with your right. Slap your way up the arete to the tough match and top out. Some people start with the right hand on a high pinch too, but I find it easier and more fun...[more]   Browse More Classics in Rhode Island

Photos of Lincoln Woods Slideshow Add Photo
Buddy I love you boulder?.. fun little problem on slopers and a nasty crimp.  Between the road and Ships Prow boulder, anyone have more info?
Buddy I love you boulder?.. fun little problem on ...
Lincoln Woods Detailed - submitted by Conor Phalen
Lincoln Woods Detailed - submitted by Conor Phalen
Spotted by Cory and Jake, with photo by Nelson, I work my way up Neil's Lunge.
Spotted by Cory and Jake, with photo by Nelson, I ...
Lincoln classic
Lincoln classic
Map of the woods.
BETA PHOTO: Map of the woods.
map from the RIparks website.
BETA PHOTO: map from the RIparks website.
Goat Rock
Goat Rock
Comments on Lincoln Woods Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Apr 13, 2007

This area is filled with many quality problems.
However, the frequency with which I encountered eliminates and variations on obvious lines was a bit of a bummer.

By john strand
From: southern colo
Jul 1, 2008

An excellent area.Lots of fun problems, especially in th V2-V5 range and boulders are everywhere.

By Joe M.
Apr 10, 2009

Ladd, not being a jerk, just curious as to why eliminates and variatons bummed you out? you should be psyched that people are so motivated to climb that they will climb any and all variations. i have travelled all over the U.S. and have never found a more climbable rock than lincoln woods. holds everywhere, so the locals take adavantage of that and climb anything and everything. if you only want to climb the pure lines, go ahead, but i don't see where there is any negative in having more problems to climb. too me, more problems equals more fun! maybe it's just me...

now, if you said the grafitti or the sketchy people on the loop road bummed you out, i could understand that...

By tscupp
From: Cincinnati, OH
Apr 13, 2010

The website that had all the beta is no longer up, hopefully it will be brought back soon but it has been a month or two since I've seen it working.

By Oliver Chong
Apr 15, 2011

The original site is still down, but you can still get the information using the Internet Archive Wayback Machine replay.waybackmachine.org/www.lincolnwoodsbouldering.com/

It might not be the latest info though if the site was being updated over the last two years or so.

By Raff
Apr 2, 2013




Check out these videos that we made on some area classics!

Like the vids? Make sure to follow us at Less Than Sponsored for videos and more:
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Less-Than-Sponsored/214804258>>>

By B-Mkll
From: Bozeman, MT
Nov 7, 2013

Was anyone bouldering in the Woods last Thursday (10/31/13) who may have gone home with a Mad Rock Mad Pad that isn't theirs? We ran into two distinct groups, one at Mack's and one at Peace Dove where this mixup may have occurred, we wound up with a significantly older Mad Pad. If you know of this, please shoot me a PM. I'm down in the area frequently and a trade would be pretty inconsequential, but it would be nice to get that back as the pad was not mine.

Thanks all!

By Derek Jf
From: Onset, MA
Feb 25, 2014

Found a nalgene this past Saturday (2/22) on the short-cut trail from the sit down rd to the parking area; I think it belongs to you Matt G. I believe we saw you with it when we were out at pond cave trying to find some dry climbing. Msg me when you see this - will be at woods next dry weekend day, looking to get it back to yah.

By Joe M.
Apr 16, 2014

There is a new parking lot near Try Again:

New Lincoln Woods Parking Lot