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Elevation: 8,400 ft
GPS: 37.4651, -107.678
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 122,629 total · 647/month
Shared By: e Dixon on Aug 20, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description Suggest change

This scenic little canyon lies to the north of Lemon Reservoir and is split by the Florida River. The rock is a mildly coarse and fractured granite that makes for a nice contrast to the sandstone and limestone that characterizes most of the climbing around town. Routes are found on both the East Side and West Side of the river and have different approaches and parking areas. There is now a tyrolean traverse to facilitate crossing the river. Most of the climbs are protected by bolts, but some require gear. A 70 meter rope can be useful for lowering off some of the longer climbs.

It is possible to chase the sun or shade, depending on the conditions.

Per Hansen Wendlandt: several climbs can be done TR (although only a few have back-up anchors), but several more are mixed. To assume you should simply sport lead some of these is to risk life and limb.

Getting There Suggest change

From the intersection of CR250 and Florida Road (Bread), follow Florida Road (CR240) east for about 12 miles. At a signed intersection just past Helen's Store, continue north on CR243 towards Lemon Reservoir. Continue north on CR243, passing the reservoir, to reach a gate and cattleguard at the north end of Lemon Reservoir at the Florida Campground. For specific directions on how to approach the cliffs from here, see East Side and West Side descriptions.

Alternately: per Samson Drake: when you see a left turn for Florida Campground, go straight (right) up the slightly rough hill and park in the large "gravel pit" (the parking area)(37.4571618, -107.6796459). A small nice trail leads north it reaches the east side of the canyon in about 20 minutes. A tyrolean underneath Brady's Route (probably an extra 5mins) leads to the west side crags.

Per Hansen Wendlandt: The Forest Service sometimes closes the gate, so you might have to walk a mile. There is a shortcut trail by campsite 2 that leads to the upper campground.

Dogs & Kids

Suggest change
Per Hansen Wendlandt: don't plan on bringing your dog or kids.

69 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lemon Reservoir

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c M3+ A0
 4
Snakes And Ladders
TR, Aid, Mixed
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 77
Finding Forester
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 91
Hotness
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 114
Vertical Alluvium
Trad, Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 79
Bonsai
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 58
Lemon Peel
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 84
Chucky Bill
Trad, Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 38
We The People
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 43
Via Manolo
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 51
Holy Grail
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 33
Brady's Route
Sport
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 11
Rasta Man!!
Sport
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 5
NoJo
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
 6
Simonizer
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 8
The Sand Dollar
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Snakes And Ladders W Side
 4
5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c M3+ A0 TR, Aid, Mixed
Finding Forester W Side
 77
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Hotness W Side
 91
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Vertical Alluvium W Side
 114
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Bonsai W Side
 79
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Lemon Peel W Side
 58
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Chucky Bill W Side
 84
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
We The People E Side
 38
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Via Manolo W Side
 43
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Holy Grail E Side
 51
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Brady's Route E Side
 33
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Rasta Man!! E Side
 11
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport
NoJo W Side
 5
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport
Simonizer E Side
 6
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 Sport
The Sand Dollar E Side
 8
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Lemon Reservoir »

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