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DescriptionLemon has been a nice addition to the climbing scene in Durango. This scenic little canyon lies to the north of Lemon Reservoir and is split by the Florida River. The rock is a mildly coarse and fractured granite that makes for a nice contrast to the sandstone and limestone that characterizes most of the climbing around town. Routes are found on both the East Side and West Side of the river and can require different approaches (depending on water level). Most of the climbs are protected by bolts, but some require gear. Climbing has been going on at Lemon for several years now, but there is still development occurring. New routes are being established on both sides of the canyon. A 70 meter rope can be useful for lowering off some of the longer climbs. Getting ThereFrom the intersection of CR250 and Florida Road (Bread), follow Florida Road east for about 12 miles. Stay left at a signed intersection and continue on CR243 for about 5 more miles to reach a gate at the north end of Lemon Reservoir. For specific directions on how to approach the cliffs, see East Side and West Side descriptions. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lemon Reservoir:
Finding Forester 5.8 Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet West Side
Warmup 3 aka Fred Flintstone 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet East Side
Tons of Fun 5.9 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet West Side
Vertical Alluvium 5.10a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet West Side
Warmup 2 aka Barney Rubble 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet East Side
Chucky Bill 5.10 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet West Side
Cape of Good Hope 5.10c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet West Side
We The People 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet East Side
Woods' Cherry 5.10d Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet East Side
Cape Point 5.11- Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet West Side
Via Manolo 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 110 feet West Side
Mexican Burrito 5.11 Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet East Side
Flat Track 5.11c Sport, 2 pitches, 150 feet East Side
Interfearon 5.11d PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 105 feet East Side
Holy Grail 5.11d Sport, 1 pitch, 105 feet East Side
Brady's Route 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 105 feet East Side
Lemon Drop 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet East Side
Rasta Man!! 5.12+ Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet East Side
Featured Route For Lemon Reservoir
Holy Grail 5.11d CO : Durango : ... : East Side
This is a great route that ascends the tallest section of the cliff. A 70m rope is nice to lower off from the anchor. There are two crux sections with a ledge between them to shake out. One of the best sport climbs in the Durango area....[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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