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Routes in East Side

420 S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Beowulf S,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Brady's Route S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flat Track S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Girl's Route S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gunslinger S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Holy Grail S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Interfearon S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Jack Frost S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Lemon Crack Climb T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Lemon Drop S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mexican Burrito S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pyromania S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rasta Man!! S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sand Dollar, The S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Simonizer S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Soul Kitchen T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sylas S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Warmup 1 aka Bam Bam S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Warmup 2 aka Barney Rubble S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Warmup 3 aka Fred Flintstone S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
We The People S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Woods' Cherry S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Bolted: Jared Odgen, FFA: Chris Barlow, 8/20/11
Page Views: 1,723 total · 21/month
Shared By: Christopher Barlow on Aug 20, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description [Suggest Change]

Climb Brady's Route through the undercling/lieback at the top of the corner. Instead of moving back left to the finishing headwall of Brady's, bust right along the prominent, arching seam. Utilize non-positive handholds and frustrating feet to get across the slightly overhanging wall. At the end of the traverse, squeeze the "Sand Dollar" crimp and deadpoint with all you've got into the vertical seam on your way to the anchors.

This is definitely a major line on Lemon's East Side, climbing most of the plum of Brady's Route then busting across the steeper, striped wall. It is certainly among the hardest pitches in the Durango area. It requires a lot of climbing and diverse techniques to get to a pretty hard set of moves with some creative rope management along the way. Get psyched and enjoy.

Location [Suggest Change]

The Sand Dollar climbs most of Brady's Route, which begins behind the tree and just left of a large, mungy, left-facing corner. The Sand Dollar climbs right from the top of the right-facing corner onBrady's across the prominent seam in the dark-colored headwall.

Protection [Suggest Change]

16 bolts and chain anchors. Bring long draws and slings to minimize drag on Brady's then some longer or double draws for the difficult clips on the crux traverse. Use a 70m rope to descend (or lower twice from the bolted belay on the ledge).

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Based on the best information I have found, this route has not previously been redpointed. I'm claiming the FFA for now (at the risk of being called a tool - I'm aware of the number of people quietly crushing around here) if only to get the word out about it. If someone else has in fact sent this thing, that's awesome. Let me know and I'll cheerfully post the correct info. Aug 20, 2011

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