Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Bolted: Jared Odgen, FFA: Chris Barlow, 8/20/11
Page Views: 1,881 total · 21/month
Shared By: Christopher Barlow on Aug 20, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Climb Brady's Route through the undercling/lieback at the top of the corner. Instead of moving back left to the finishing headwall of Brady's, bust right along the prominent, arching seam. Utilize non-positive handholds and frustrating feet to get across the slightly overhanging wall. At the end of the traverse, squeeze the "Sand Dollar" crimp and deadpoint with all you've got into the vertical seam on your way to the anchors.

This is definitely a major line on Lemon's East Side, climbing most of the plum of Brady's Route then busting across the steeper, striped wall. It is certainly among the hardest pitches in the Durango area. It requires a lot of climbing and diverse techniques to get to a pretty hard set of moves with some creative rope management along the way. Get psyched and enjoy.

Location

The Sand Dollar climbs most of Brady's Route, which begins behind the tree and just left of a large, mungy, left-facing corner. The Sand Dollar climbs right from the top of the right-facing corner onBrady's across the prominent seam in the dark-colored headwall.

Protection

16 bolts and chain anchors. Bring long draws and slings to minimize drag on Brady's then some longer or double draws for the difficult clips on the crux traverse. Use a 70m rope to descend (or lower twice from the bolted belay on the ledge).

Photos

Christopher Barlow  
  5.13
Based on the best information I have found, this route has not previously been redpointed. I'm claiming the FFA for now (at the risk of being called a tool - I'm aware of the number of people quietly crushing around here) if only to get the word out about it. If someone else has in fact sent this thing, that's awesome. Let me know and I'll cheerfully post the correct info. Aug 20, 2011