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Routes in B. East Side
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420 S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Beowulf S,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Brady's Route S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chattanooga Choo Choo S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Conch S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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F*ck Cancer S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Flat Track S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Girl's Route S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Great Gazoo, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Gunslinger S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Happy Hooker, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Holy Grail S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Hot Jimmy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Interfearon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Jack Frost S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Lemon Crack Climb T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Lemon Drop S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Lemon Song, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Mexican Burrito S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Pebbles S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pyromania S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rasta Man!! S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Sand Dollar, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Simonizer S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Skyfall S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Soul Kitchen T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Split Decision S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sylas S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Warmup 1 aka Bam Bam S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Warmup 2 aka Barney Rubble S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Warmup 3 aka Fred Flintstone S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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We The People S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Woods' Cherry S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | Bolted: Jared Odgen, FFA: Chris Barlow, 8/20/11 |
| Page Views: | 3,240 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Christopher Barlow on Aug 20, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Climb Brady's Route through the undercling/lieback at the top of the corner. Instead of moving back left to the finishing headwall of Brady's, bust right along the prominent, arching seam. Utilize non-positive handholds and frustrating feet to get across the slightly overhanging wall. At the end of the traverse, squeeze the "Sand Dollar" crimp and deadpoint with all you've got into the vertical seam on your way to the anchors.
This is definitely a major line on Lemon's East Side, climbing most of the plum of Brady's Route then busting across the steeper, striped wall. It is certainly among the hardest pitches in the Durango area. It requires a lot of climbing and diverse techniques to get to a pretty hard set of moves with some creative rope management along the way. Get psyched and enjoy.
This is definitely a major line on Lemon's East Side, climbing most of the plum of Brady's Route then busting across the steeper, striped wall. It is certainly among the hardest pitches in the Durango area. It requires a lot of climbing and diverse techniques to get to a pretty hard set of moves with some creative rope management along the way. Get psyched and enjoy.
Location
The Sand Dollar climbs most of Brady's Route, which begins behind the tree and just left of a large, mungy, left-facing corner. The Sand Dollar climbs right from the top of the right-facing corner onBrady's across the prominent seam in the dark-colored headwall.
Protection
16 bolts and chain anchors. Bring long draws and slings to minimize drag on Brady's then some longer or double draws for the difficult clips on the crux traverse. Use a 70m rope to descend (or lower twice from the bolted belay on the ledge).
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