Horse Rampart Rock Climbing
Horse Rampart is located southeast of the electric fence above a large talus field. The area contains a plethora of moderate routes including the challenging Roger's Roof (5.8). The routes here are fairly long and the area at the base of the climbs is very comfortable. Any moderate climber should be able to find a climb that suits them from the 20 or so moderate climbs found here. There are also a handful of more challenging climbs here, including Between the Sheets (5.12c) and Ptolemy (5.11a).
To find the Horse Rampart walk north on the railroad tracks from the South Shore parking lot until you get to the electric fence. Duck under the fence and walk up along the Birthday Rocks wall. Go south and east around the Caesarian Tower at the southeast end of the Birthday Rocks and head up the bluff and slightly right along the climber's trail (the more direct and treacherous route is to scramble up the talus slope south of the electric fence). About 200 feet up the bluff you will see the southeast end of the 200 ft long Horse Rampart wall. The majority of the climbs are located near the middle of the wall. The wall terminates at Teetering Tower, a narrow 40 ft tower that leans in towards the wall.
A more direct approach is to scramble directly up the boulder field, past Lothar's Ledges, which may be passed on either the right or the left. Especially when the trail by Birthday is muddy, this may actually be the easiest approach!
Access to the top can be found either up the second or third gully to the left of Monarch, or to the right of Teetering Tower.
Weather station 3.7 miles from here
25 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Horse Rampart
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Horse Rampart
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Horse Rampart:
Lechery 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Mung 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 70'
Featured Route For Horse Rampart
Via Apia 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI
: Devil's Lake
: ... : Horse Rampart
Located at the Eastern end of the Horse Rampart (the last climb on the continious cliff line before Teetering Tower), this jam crack poses interisting moves that will have you wondering why you havn't found this rout at the lake earlier....[more] Browse More Classics in WI
Watching the clouds roll in
By Chris Hoppe
May 7, 2002
I really like the climbs here. Its the first place I went to at Devils Lake. The only problem is when the sun hits it, the hornets come out of all the cracks you try and climb. But its a GREAT place to hit in the morning.
Jun 10, 2010
Home of many climbs with the infamous "5.8" rating.