Horse Rampart is located southeast of the electric fence above a large talus field. The area contains a plethora of moderate routes including the challenging Roger's Roof (5.8). The routes here are fairly long and the area at the base of the climbs is very comfortable. Any moderate climber should be able to find a climb that suits them from the 20 or so moderate climbs found here. There are also a handful of more challenging climbs here, including Between the Sheets (5.12c) and Ptolemy (5.11a).
To find the Horse Rampart walk north on the railroad tracks from the South Shore parking lot until you get to the electric fence. Duck under the fence and walk up along the Birthday Rocks wall. Go south and east around the Caesarian Tower at the southeast end of the Birthday Rocks and head up the bluff and slightly right along the climber's trail (the more direct and treacherous route is to scramble up the talus slope south of the electric fence). About 200 feet up the bluff you will see the southeast end of the 200 ft long Horse Rampart wall. The majority of the climbs are located near the middle of the wall. The wall terminates at Teetering Tower, a narrow 40 ft tower that leans in towards the wall.
A more direct approach is to scramble directly up the boulder field, past Lothar's Ledges, which may be passed on either the right or the left. Especially when the trail by Birthday is muddy, this may actually be the easiest approach!
Access to the top can be found either up the second or third gully to the left of Monarch, or to the right of Teetering Tower.
Weather station 3.7 miles from here
25 Total Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Horse Rampart
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Horse Rampart:
Via Apia 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Lechery 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Mung 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 70'
Plethora 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Featured Route For Horse Rampart
Roger's Roof 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c WI
: Devil's Lake
: ... : Horse Rampart
Roger's Roof is a well known climb at Horse Rampart. When approaching Horse Rampart from Birthday Rocks, Roger's Roof is located near the middle of the formation about 50 feet past the top-rope access "gully". To climb this beauty, start to the left of the alcove at the base of the wall. Follow the wedge-shaped rib up to the hand crack in the roof. When you get to the roof, reach above it and jam your palm (you will bleed) into the crack while keeping your feet high on the face below the roo...[more] Browse More Classics in WI
Latest Regional Forum Messages
Watching the clouds roll in
By Chris Hoppe
May 7, 2002
I really like the climbs here. Its the first place I went to at Devils Lake. The only problem is when the sun hits it, the hornets come out of all the cracks you try and climb. But its a GREAT place to hit in the morning.
Jun 10, 2010
Home of many climbs with the infamous "5.8" rating.