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Horse Rampart
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
AAA 
Archery 
Between the Cheeks 
Debauchery 
Horse with No Name 
Horse, The 
Lechery 
Moby Dick 
Monarch 
Mother Smucker's Jam 
Mung 
Peanut Butter 
Plethora 
Primak's Surprise 
Pullman Car 
Roger's Roof 
Scavenger of Sorrow 
Scuz 
Sugar-free Jam 
Teetering Tower 
Teetering Tower Chimney 
Treachery 
Via Apia 
Woger's Woof Wightside 
Wolf Dog 

Horse Rampart 


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Administrators: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, Chris treggE, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Feb 18, 2002

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Horse Ramparts.

Description 

Horse Rampart is located southeast of the electric fence above a large talus field. The area contains a plethora of moderate routes including the challenging Roger's Roof (5.8). The routes here are fairly long and the area at the base of the climbs is very comfortable. Any moderate climber should be able to find a climb that suits them from the 20 or so moderate climbs found here. There are also a handful of more challenging climbs here, including Between the Sheets (5.12c) and Ptolemy (5.11a).


Getting There 

To find the Horse Rampart walk north on the railroad tracks from the South Shore parking lot until you get to the electric fence. Duck under the fence and walk up along the Birthday Rocks wall. Go south and east around the Caesarian Tower at the southeast end of the Birthday Rocks and head up the bluff and slightly right along the climber's trail (the more direct and treacherous route is to scramble up the talus slope south of the electric fence). About 200 feet up the bluff you will see the southeast end of the 200 ft long Horse Rampart wall. The majority of the climbs are located near the middle of the wall. The wall terminates at Teetering Tower, a narrow 40 ft tower that leans in towards the wall.

A more direct approach is to scramble directly up the boulder field, past Lothar's Ledges, which may be passed on either the right or the left. Especially when the trail by Birthday is muddy, this may actually be the easiest approach!

Access to the top can be found either up the second or third gully to the left of Monarch, or to the right of Teetering Tower.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Horse Rampart:
Sugar-free Jam   5.2     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 35 feet   
The Horse   5.4     Trad, TR   
Primak's Surprise   5.6     Trad, TR   
Via Apia   5.7     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet   
Pullman Car   5.7     Trad, TR   
Wolf Dog   5.7     Trad, TR, 50 feet   
Peanut Butter   5.8     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Mother Smucker's Jam   5.8     Trad, TR   
Moby Dick   5.8     Trad, TR   
Debauchery   5.8     TR   
Lechery   5.8     Trad, TR   
Roger's Roof   5.8     Trad, TR   
Mung   5.9     Trad, 70 feet   
Teetering Tower   5.9     TR, 1 pitch, 35 feet   
Scuz   5.9+     TR   
Plethora   5.10d     Trad   
Woger's Woof Wightside   5.11c     TR   
AAA   5.12a     TR   
Between the Cheeks   5.12c     TR   
Browse More Classics in Horse Rampart

Featured Route For Horse Rampart
Henning Boldt flashing Mung. September '08.

Mung 5.9  WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Horse Rampart
Tricky and overhanging crack followed by jugs higher up. The crux is avoiding pumping out at the right facing corner below the small roof but it's far from over after that. Skinny fingers come in handy. Fun route. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in WI


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Watching the clouds roll in

Watching the clouds roll in


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By Chris Hoppe
May 7, 2002

I really like the climbs here. Its the first place I went to at Devils Lake. The only problem is when the sun hits it, the hornets come out of all the cracks you try and climb. But its a GREAT place to hit in the morning.

By Trad Nanny
Jun 10, 2010

Home of many climbs with the infamous "5.8" rating.