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Hatcher Pass

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Archangel Valley Bouldering - Diamond, Fairangel, Monolith, Roadside, Indianhead 
Archangel Valley Sport and Traditional Climbing 
Independence Mine Bouldering 
Reed Lakes Bouldering and Climbing 

Hatcher Pass 


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Elevation: 3,886'
Page Views: 42,577
Administrators: Jared LaVacque, Dommelhiemer, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Luke to Zuke on Jul 17, 2008
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Description 

This is a very untouched climbing area or rather unknown, full of FA's. The rock is blocky granite with alot of moss because the area receives steady rain in the spring and fall. Current sites covering bouldering at Hatcher Pass are www.akclimber.com, run by Todd Helgeson.

A bouldering guide to Alaska was recently released by Todd Helgeson and covers most of the bouldering in Alaska and features an in depth Hatcher Pass section with great details and photos, to get the boulderer where they want to be climbing. The guide is available for sale at www.akclimber.com


Two rockclimbing guides cover the climbing in Hatcher Pass, both are by Kelsey Gray. They are "Alaska Rock Climbing Guide" and is available in two volumes.


Getting There 

From Anchorage drive north on the Glenn Highway, 30 minutes, to Palmer. Continue through two stop lights, prior to ascending the large hill, that leaves Palmer. Keep following the Glenn to N. Palmer Fishhook Rd., which will be on the left hand side, approximately 2 miles from the 1st stop light. You will take this for 30 minutes. Drive parallel to the Little Susitna river up to the "Mother Lode Lodge" take the sharp U-turn, head up the hill for a few hundred yards, then take the easy-to-miss, sharp right up a single gravel road,you will see the Archangel Rd. sign. Continue on this past a river and then over a bridge. The climbing begins approximately 3.75 miles up. The bouldering starts at the Aldershade Boulders(marked by a large cairn on the right side of the road) on the right hand side, hidden by view, but right off the side of the road, around mile 1.75 from the start of Archangel Road. A 4x4 is required if you want to drive past the Reed Lakes Trailhead parking lot, which is approximately 2.5 miles up the road from the start.


89 Total Routes


['4 Stars',21],['3 Stars',42],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',8],['5.8',11],['5.9',11],['5.10',17],['5.11',11],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',3],['V2-3',8],['V4-5',6],['V6-7',6],['V8-9',4],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Hatcher Pass:
Crackhead   V3-4 6A+     Boulder, 15'   Archangel Bouldering : Dimond North
Chickenhead   5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   Archangel Valley Sport and ... : The Monolith
Local Motion   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 150'   Archangel Valley Sport and ... : The Monolith
Toto   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 5 pitches   Archangel Valley Sport and ... : The Diamond
The Slot   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Archangel Valley Sport and ... : The Monolith
Snowflake   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Reed Lakes Bouldering and C... : SnowBird Slab/Cornerstone
Physical Attraction   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Archangel Valley Sport and ... : Zulu Wall
Zigzag   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Archangel Valley Sport and ... : The Monolith
Rise   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 35 pitches, 350'   Reed Lakes Bouldering and C... : The High Dive
Orangutan Overhang   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   Archangel Valley Sport and ... : The Monolith
Thin As Ice   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 130'   Reed Lakes Bouldering and C... : SnowBird Slab/Cornerstone
Freedom Roof    5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 90'   Archangel Valley Sport and ... : The Monolith
Voodoo Child   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   Archangel Valley Sport and ... : Zulu Wall
Zulu Warrior   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Archangel Valley Sport and ... : Zulu Wall
African Dreams    5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 50'   Fairangel Gap and Valley : Bill's Wall
Epidemic    5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Sport, 50'   Fairangel Gap and Valley : Bill's Wall
Blue Berry Crack   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Trad, 50'   Archangel Valley Sport and ... : Green Gully
The Brown Spot   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Trad, 120'   Archangel Valley Sport and ... : Green Gully
3rd Generation   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   Archangel Valley Sport and ... : 3rd Generation Wall
Browse More Classics in Hatcher Pass

Featured Route For Hatcher Pass
Cool pitch

Orangutan Overhang 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a  AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : ... : The Monolith
5.9 climb the corner 15' to the cruxy roof, pull the small roof up to a fixed nut. Continue up the crack then move on slabish chicken heads up to ledge.Belay out of the crack at top of bushy ledge. Continue up the corner past a loose-looking chockstone but feels stable, slab out right up to another small roof, pull the roof to a very awkward/dirty chimney or out right in a crack, grass at top and finish on two bolts and one piton, rap the route with two double ropes....[more]   Browse More Classics in AK

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