Too Much Fun for You
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 3.7 from 14 votes
Type: | Sport, 180 ft (55 m) |
FA: | John Trautwein, John Mitchell |
Page Views: | 1,572 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | L. Von Dommelheimer on Jun 22, 2014 |
Admins: | L. Von Dommelheimer |
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Description
This long sustained route will make 5.10 gym climbers cry. Climb through well spaced bolts on slab, cracks, and chicken heads. Brings lots of slings to help with drag, although you'll have all but the full weight of the rope on you by the chains. Every other bolt (or so) is a 5/16 button head in the crux sections. The button heads should be treated as suspect.
Location
This route starts right of the large dirty gully to the right of Orangutan Overhang. it climbs the slab and moves slightly left to pull the roof then back right on the run out slab.
Protection
15 bolts (and a piton that can easily be skipped) Two bolt ASCA anchor. To descend there are several options. A double rope rap will take you to the ground, a 70m rope will take you to the second anchor on Orangutan (you can see this anchor off to the left while on route). You can also walk off to the right which takes about five minutes.
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