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Areas in Archangel Valley Sport and Traditional Climbing

3rd Generation Wall 2 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Aurora Slab 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Catch The Wave 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Diamond, The 10 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Fairangel Gap and Valley 14 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 16
Fairangel Walls 4 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Gargoyle, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Green Gully 9 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Guardian, The 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Jungle Gym, The 8 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Lane Prospect Area 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 3
Lost Wall, The 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Monolith, The 16 / 5 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
Std walls 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Tarzan's Temple 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Warmup Wall 4 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
White Spot , The 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Yellow Brick Road 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Zulu Wall 8 / 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Elevation: 3,037 ft
GPS: 61.817, -149.238 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 48,759 total, 426/month
Shared By: Luke to Zuke on Jul 17, 2008
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

Description

Very unique, "Lord of the Rings" like. Weather is random and can be very different from the weather reports.
Bouldering..Everywhere

Two rockclimbing guides cover the climbing in Hatcher Pass, both are by Kelsey Gray. They are "Alaska Rock Climbing Guide" and is available in two volumes.

A bouldering guide to Alaska was recently released by Todd Helgeson and covers most of the bouldering in Alaska and features an in depth Hatcher Pass section with great details and photos, to get the boulderer where they want to be climbing. The guide is available for sale at akclimber.com

Getting There

From Anchorage drive north on the Glenn Highway, 30 minutes, to Palmer. Continue through two stop lights, prior to ascending the large hill, that leaves Palmer. Keep following the Glenn to N. Palmer Fishhook Rd., which will be on the left hand side, approximately 2 miles from the 1st stop light. You will take this for 30 minutes. Drive parallel to the Little Susitna river up to the "Mother Lode Lodge" take the sharp U-turn, head up the hill for a few hundred yards, then take the easy-to-miss, sharp right up a single gravel road,you will see the Archangel Rd. sign. Continue on this past a river and then over a bridge. The climbing begins approximately 3.75 miles up. The bouldering starts at the Aldershade Boulders(marked by a large cairn on the right side of the road) on the right hand side, hidden by view, but right off the side of the road, around mile 1.75 from the start of Archangel Road. A 4x4 is required if you want to drive past the Reed Lakes Trailhead parking lot, which is approximately 2.5 miles up the road from the start.

110 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Archangel Valley Sport and Traditional Climbing

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Physical Attraction
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orangutan Overhang
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Randys roof
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yellow Brick Road
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Toto
Trad 6 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Voodoo Child
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Toto to the Pinnacle link up
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Makin Hole aka The Dorsal Fin
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Green lightning
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
My Pie
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
White Spot Roofs
Trad 3 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rebirth
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
The Brown Spot
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Terror Vision
Trad 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tunnel Vision
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Physical Attraction Zulu Wall 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Orangutan Overhang Monolith 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Randys roof Jungle Gym 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Yellow Brick Road Yellow Brick Rd 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Toto Diamond 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 6 pitches
Voodoo Child Zulu Wall 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Sport
Toto to the Pinnacle link up Diamond 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Makin Hole aka The Dorsal Fin Green Gully 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Green lightning Green Gully 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
My Pie Green Gully 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
White Spot Roofs Green Gully 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 3 pitches
Rebirth Catch The Wave 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
The Brown Spot Green Gully 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Terror Vision Lost Wall 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad 2 pitches
Tunnel Vision Fairangel Gap and… > Tunnel Vision Wall 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Archangel Valley Sport and Traditional Climbing »

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