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Elevation: 3,037 ft 926 m
GPS: 61.81663, -149.23829
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 199,493 total · 1,035/month
Shared By: Luke to Zuke on Jul 17, 2008 · Updates
Admins: L. Von Dommelheimer

Description Suggest change

Very unique, "Lord of the Rings" like. Weather is random and can be very different from the weather reports.

Bouldering..Everywhere


The climbing guide that covers this area is the "Alaska Rock Climbing Guide" by Kelsey Gray, and is available at REI, AMH, the Alaska Rock Gym and other local bookstores, as well as online at climbak.com ;


A bouldering guide to Alaska was recently released by Todd Helgeson, David Funatake, and Kelsey Gray and covers most of the bouldering in Alaska, it features an in depth Hatcher Pass section with great details and photos to get the boulderer where they want to be climbing. The guide is available for sale at akclimber.com

Getting There Suggest change

From Anchorage drive north on the Glenn Highway, 30 minutes, to Palmer. Continue through two stop lights, prior to ascending the large hill, that leaves Palmer. Keep following the Glenn to N. Palmer Fishhook Rd., which will be on the left hand side, approximately 2 miles from the 1st stop light. You will take this for 30 minutes. Drive parallel to the Little Susitna river up to the "Mother Lode Lodge" take the sharp U-turn, head up the hill for a few hundred yards, then take the easy-to-miss, sharp right up a single gravel road,you will see the Archangel Rd. sign. Continue on this past a river and then over a bridge. The climbing begins approximately 3.75 miles up. The bouldering starts at the Aldershade Boulders(marked by a large cairn on the right side of the road) on the right hand side, hidden by view, but right off the side of the road, around mile 1.75 from the start of Archangel Road. A 4x4 is required if you want to drive past the Reed Lakes Trailhead parking lot, which is approximately 2.5 miles up the road from the start.

156 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Archangel Valley Sport and Traditional Climbing Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Archangel Valley Sport and Traditional Climbing

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 32
Physical Attraction
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 21
Orangutan Overhang
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 67
Toto
Trad 6 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 14
Festoon
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 18
Voodoo Child
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 18
Zulu Warrior
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 14
Too Much Fun for You
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 11
Toto to the Pinnacle link up
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 15
Green lightning
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c V2+ 5+
 12
Child Support
Trad, Boulder 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 14
My Pie
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 11
White Spot Roofs
Trad 3 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 15
Tunnel Vision
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 8
Riptide Arete
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 7
Terror Vision
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Physical Attraction Zulu Wall
 32
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Orangutan Overhang Monolith
 21
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Toto Diamond
 67
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 6 pitches
Festoon Diamond
 14
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
Voodoo Child Zulu Wall
 18
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Sport
Zulu Warrior Zulu Wall
 18
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R Sport
Too Much Fun for You Monolith
 14
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Sport
Toto to the Pinnacle link up Diamond
 11
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Green lightning Green Gully
 15
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Child Support White Spot
 12
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c V2+ 5+ Trad, Boulder 2 pitches
My Pie Green Gully
 14
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
White Spot Roofs Green Gully
 11
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 3 pitches
Tunnel Vision Fairangel Gap &… > Tunnel Vision Wall
 15
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Riptide Arete Catch The Wave
 8
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Terror Vision Lost Wall
 7
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Archangel Valley Sport and Traditional Climbing »

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