Elevation: 3,037 ft
GPS: 61.81663, -149.23829
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 198,717 total · 1,122/month
Shared By: Luke to Zuke on Jul 17, 2008 · Updates
Admins: L. Von Dommelheimer

Description

Very unique, "Lord of the Rings" like. Weather is random and can be very different from the weather reports.

Bouldering..Everywhere


The climbing guide that covers this area is the "Alaska Rock Climbing Guide" by Kelsey Gray, and is available at REI, AMH, the Alaska Rock Gym and other local bookstores, as well as online at climbak.com ;


A bouldering guide to Alaska was recently released by Todd Helgeson, David Funatake, and Kelsey Gray and covers most of the bouldering in Alaska, it features an in depth Hatcher Pass section with great details and photos to get the boulderer where they want to be climbing. The guide is available for sale at akclimber.com

Getting There

From Anchorage drive north on the Glenn Highway, 30 minutes, to Palmer. Continue through two stop lights, prior to ascending the large hill, that leaves Palmer. Keep following the Glenn to N. Palmer Fishhook Rd., which will be on the left hand side, approximately 2 miles from the 1st stop light. You will take this for 30 minutes. Drive parallel to the Little Susitna river up to the "Mother Lode Lodge" take the sharp U-turn, head up the hill for a few hundred yards, then take the easy-to-miss, sharp right up a single gravel road,you will see the Archangel Rd. sign. Continue on this past a river and then over a bridge. The climbing begins approximately 3.75 miles up. The bouldering starts at the Aldershade Boulders(marked by a large cairn on the right side of the road) on the right hand side, hidden by view, but right off the side of the road, around mile 1.75 from the start of Archangel Road. A 4x4 is required if you want to drive past the Reed Lakes Trailhead parking lot, which is approximately 2.5 miles up the road from the start.

153 Total Climbs

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Location: Archangel Valley Sport and Traditional Climbing Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Archangel Valley Sport and Traditional Climbing

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 34
The Slot
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 28
Physical Attraction
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 9
Straight Eight
Trad, Alpine
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 19
Orangutan Overhang
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 8
Fine Nine
Trad, Alpine
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 60
Toto
Trad 6 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 15
Voodoo Child
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 16
Zulu Warrior
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
Toto to the Pinnacle link up
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 13
Green lightning
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 9
White Spot Roofs
Trad 3 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 8
Child Support
Trad 2 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 8
Rebirth
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 14
Tunnel Vision
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 8
Riptide Arete
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Slot Monolith
 34
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Physical Attraction Zulu Wall
 28
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Straight Eight Lane Prospect Area > Bear's Den
 9
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine
Orangutan Overhang Monolith
 19
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Fine Nine Lane Prospect Area > Bear's Den
 8
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, Alpine
Toto Diamond
 60
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 6 pitches
Voodoo Child Zulu Wall
 15
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Sport
Zulu Warrior Zulu Wall
 16
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R Sport
Toto to the Pinnacle link up Diamond
 7
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Green lightning Green Gully
 13
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
White Spot Roofs Green Gully
 9
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 3 pitches
Child Support White Spot
 8
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 2 pitches
Rebirth Catch The Wave
 8
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Tunnel Vision Fairangel Gap &… > Tunnel Vision Wall
 14
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Riptide Arete Catch The Wave
 8
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Archangel Valley Sport and Traditional Climbing »

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