Elevation: 3,037 ft
GPS: 61.817, -149.238 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 120,842 total · 824/month
Shared By: Luke to Zuke on Jul 17, 2008 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

Description



Very unique, "Lord of the Rings" like. Weather is random and can be very different from the weather reports.
Bouldering..Everywhere

The climbing guide that covers this area is the "Alaska Rock Climbing Guide" by Kelsey Gray, and is available at REI, AMH, and other local bookstores, as well as online.

A bouldering guide to Alaska was recently released by Todd Helgeson and covers most of the bouldering in Alaska and features an in depth Hatcher Pass section with great details and photos, to get the boulderer where they want to be climbing. The guide is available for sale atakclimber.com

Getting There

From Anchorage drive north on the Glenn Highway, 30 minutes, to Palmer. Continue through two stop lights, prior to ascending the large hill, that leaves Palmer. Keep following the Glenn to N. Palmer Fishhook Rd., which will be on the left hand side, approximately 2 miles from the 1st stop light. You will take this for 30 minutes. Drive parallel to the Little Susitna river up to the "Mother Lode Lodge" take the sharp U-turn, head up the hill for a few hundred yards, then take the easy-to-miss, sharp right up a single gravel road,you will see the Archangel Rd. sign. Continue on this past a river and then over a bridge. The climbing begins approximately 3.75 miles up. The bouldering starts at the Aldershade Boulders(marked by a large cairn on the right side of the road) on the right hand side, hidden by view, but right off the side of the road, around mile 1.75 from the start of Archangel Road. A 4x4 is required if you want to drive past the Reed Lakes Trailhead parking lot, which is approximately 2.5 miles up the road from the start.

138 Total Climbs

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Location: Archangel Valley Sport and Traditional Climbing Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Archangel Valley Sport and Traditional Climbing

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 28
The Slot
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 23
Physical Attraction
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 16
Orangutan Overhang
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 52
Toto
Trad 6 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 12
Voodoo Child
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 11
Zulu Warrior
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
Toto to the Pinnacle link up
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
Makin Hole aka The Dorsal Fin
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 9
Green lightning
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 6
White Spot Roofs
Trad 3 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 6
Child Support
Trad 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
 6
The Brown Spot
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 12
Tunnel Vision
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 6
Riptide Arete
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 7
Terror Vision
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Slot Monolith
 28
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Physical Attraction Zulu Wall
 23
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Orangutan Overhang Monolith
 16
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Toto Diamond
 52
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 6 pitches
Voodoo Child Zulu Wall
 12
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Sport
Zulu Warrior Zulu Wall
 11
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R Sport
Toto to the Pinnacle link up Diamond
 6
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Makin Hole aka The Dorsal Fin Green Gully
 6
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Green lightning Green Gully
 9
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
White Spot Roofs Green Gully
 6
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 3 pitches
Child Support White Spot
 6
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 2 pitches
The Brown Spot Green Gully
 6
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R Trad
Tunnel Vision Fairangel Gap &… > Tunnel Vision Wall
 12
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Riptide Arete Catch The Wave
 6
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Terror Vision Lost Wall
 7
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Archangel Valley Sport and Traditional Climbing »

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